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What is the best weight distribution hitch?

BeerBrewer
Explorer
Explorer
Money aside, what is the best anti-sway weight distribution hitch for a travel trailer with a 7500 lb GVWR?

I know that there are lots of WDHs out there in all price ranges and they all claim to be the best, so its very confusing. I was wondering what you all think is the best and why. Is it worth spending $3000 for hitch?
47 REPLIES 47

furballs
Explorer
Explorer
I've thought about the never ending discussions about hitches and have reached a few conclusions. Each driver has a different set of skills and a different amount of risk acceptance/avoidance. Likewise, folks drive in differing environments. Putting this all together with the tow vehicle and TT match, there ends uo a sliding scale for which hitch goes with a particular scenario. A garden variety WD hitch will work fine at the end of the scale where enviroment +driver skill +towvehicle /trailer match dynamics are good. However, environment is not always predictable or within a driver's control. There's the rub. At that lesser probability point a run of the mill WD hitch is not gonna cut it. The point at which a problem arises will be further up the scale with a more exotic hitch. Thus we get folks with basic hitches who honestly report 250K with "no problems." I submit that they haven't encountered the combination of factors that exceeds their spot on the scale. I tend to push the "conditions" envelope a little and have therefore exceeded the capabilities of a simple friction bar. I have also exceeded the capabilities of a tension style sway control. I never did exceed the capabilities of a Pull-rite on F-250 supercab for 6 years, another on a F-350 crew diesel for 11 years. Pull-rite has stopped making hitches except for a few models so I couldn't put one on (I begged) the new 17'F-350 crew. I still expect to push the ends of the scale so, HA on this truck. Do I need it? Define "need". I am a very experienced driver but I know I am not perfect and sometimes there is a surprise waiting. It is little different than insurance or fire extinguishers...ya don't need it until you need it.

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
Thank you Barney, agree with you



Folks need to use 'snip...' to remove superfluous verbiage and keep stuff that will keep their comments in context

That is what Barney did and kept the germane verbiage for continuity of the comments/thread
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
TurnThePage wrote:


Snip...

Well now, the administrator edited my response to remove previous quotes, which essentially renders my reply meaningless. Maybe it already was. LOL

If you are one who goes to the end of a thread and reads only the last page or post then your statement might be true but I only removed unnecessary quotes that immediately preceded your post.
I, and many others, do not care to read the same stuff over and over again, plus it makes the page much longer than necessary which means scrolling down to read the thread.

If removing previous quotes makes the reply meaningless, I will not remove them. I am just trying to make the forum threads more enjoyable and easy to read.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

TurnThePage
Explorer
Explorer
ljr wrote:


Yes, I have owned and used both. With respect, I disagree.
And this brings us back to the trailer/tow vehicle set up. Some trailers probably resist being well balanced, and some tow vehicles may not be ideally suited for the larger trailer it's towing. This is where an HA might shine compared to those more run of the mill hitches.

My trailer is fairly light, around 6k lbs, and actually tows pretty nicely with no sway control, aside from some minor induced sway by passing semis. With my Equal-I-zer engaged it's rock solid under any conditions I've managed to find over the last 15 years.

Well now, the administrator edited my response to remove previous quotes, which essentially renders my reply meaningless. Maybe it already was. LOL
2015 Ram 1500
2022 Grand Design Imagine XLS 22RBE

ljr
Explorer III
Explorer III
BarneyS wrote:

I agree with your first paragraph but wonder if you have ever towed with a Hensley or Pullrite hitch. The differences in towing results between the normal hitch regardless of brand or price, and the Hensley or Pullrite, are NOT tiny although they ARE pretty expensive until you sell.
Barney


Yes, I have owned and used both. With respect, I disagree.
Larry

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
ljr wrote:


Good point. Speaking as one who had always used premium priced hitches; any major brand hitch, properly set up, with a reasonable TV/TT combination will do the job. You need to decide if you are willing to pay big $ for the difference between very good and very, very good. I am.

The differences we are talking about are tiny and expensive.

I agree with your first paragraph but wonder if you have ever towed with a Hensley or Pullrite hitch. The differences in towing results between the normal hitch regardless of brand or price, and the Hensley or Pullrite, are NOT tiny although they ARE pretty expensive until you sell.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

ljr
Explorer III
Explorer III
drsteve wrote:
I've used a few different kinds, all can be made to work well. My current hitch is a Husky Centerline TS, same basic design as the better known Equal-i-zer. Has built in sway control. Works great, very easy to set up. $350 from Amazon.

You do not need to spend $3000 on a Hensley.


Good point. Speaking as one who had always used premium priced hitches; any major brand hitch, properly set up, with a reasonable TV/TT combination will do the job. You need to decide if you are willing to pay big $ for the difference between very good and very, very good. I am.

The differences we are talking about are tiny and expensive.
Larry

drsteve
Explorer
Explorer
I've used a few different kinds, all can be made to work well. My current hitch is a Husky Centerline TS, same basic design as the better known Equal-i-zer. Has built in sway control. Works great, very easy to set up. $350 from Amazon.

You do not need to spend $3000 on a Hensley.
2006 Silverado 1500HD Crew Cab 2WD 6.0L 3.73 8600 GVWR
2018 Coachmen Catalina Legacy Edition 223RBS
1991 Palomino Filly PUP

JIMNLIN
Explorer
Explorer
As you see which is the best hitch is like asking which is the best truck.
I like my Husky Centerline TS with 1200 lb bars for a 10k trailer.
"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
'97 Park Avanue 28' 5er 11200 two slides

Campteacher
Explorer
Explorer
I have a Husky Center Line, and used it for the first season with no problems at all. I towed through hills and dales, and through heavy wind and rain.

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
BeerBrewer wrote:
I never heard of a Pullrite, but it looks interesting. I can see why it eliminates sway. It looks very heavy, it seems to hang low under the truck bed and I'm guessing that it blocks access to the spare tire. Is it expensive?

The Hensley & Pro-Pride are both also expensive, is theft an issue with them? If so, is there a way to secure them when the trailer is left unattended?

The Pullrite is very heavy, hangs lower under the vehicle, and is just about the same price as a Hensley. It is also very hard and labor intensive to install which frequently requires relocating the spare tire to the truck or bed of the tow vehicle.

Theft is not an issue with the Hensley for few reasons.
1. You can lock it on to the tongue with a padlock just like a normal hitch.
2. Most thiefs would not know what it is or what its' value is and therefore would not target it for theft.
3. Even if they DID want to get it, it would take quite a long time to remove from the tongue which they most likely would not want to spend.
4. Hitch thefts are not a problem in general. ๐Ÿ™‚
Barney

P.S. I have been offline since early yesterday morning and when I saw the title of this thread this morning I figured there would be a lot of arguing going on. Thank you everybody for keeping your comments on topic and, in general, friendly and good natured. :):):)
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

ljr
Explorer III
Explorer III
BeerBrewer wrote:
I never heard of a Pullrite, but it looks interesting. I can see why it eliminates sway. It looks very heavy, it seems to hang low under the truck bed and I'm guessing that it blocks access to the spare tire. Is it expensive?

The Hensley & Pro-Pride are both also expensive, is theft an issue with them? If so, is there a way to secure them when the trailer is left unattended?


I donโ€™t know the current price but yes, the PR is expensive. It depends on your TV but mine required relocating both the spare tire and exhaust. As happy as I was with itโ€™s performance, the install hassle wasnโ€™t worth it. My next hitch was a Hensley.
Larry

BeerBrewer
Explorer
Explorer
I never heard of a Pullrite, but it looks interesting. I can see why it eliminates sway. It looks very heavy, it seems to hang low under the truck bed and I'm guessing that it blocks access to the spare tire. Is it expensive?

The Hensley & Pro-Pride are both also expensive, is theft an issue with them? If so, is there a way to secure them when the trailer is left unattended?

DustyR
Explorer
Explorer
CaLBaR wrote:
I have used the Reese dual cam system for over 11 years and it works very well. Never had any issues. Even with the 34' trailer I have now it is very stable. Just like others have said they all need to be fine tuned and setup properly.


X-2

I have used the Reese Dual Cam System for will over 40 years. The set has worked very well for me on a number of vehicles from a 1970 Chevrolet Impala towing a heavy Terry TT. I currently tow the set-up in sig. There is a lot of info on the proper set up procedure for this hitch and the only thing that moves this combination is a 20ft box truck.
2016 Open Range 319RLS
Tow Vehicle: 2008 Silverado 2500 HD
Duramax, Allison Transmission.

bikendan
Explorer
Explorer
TenOC wrote:
Hensley Arrow or ProPide. All others are an accident waiting to happen.


:R:S
Dan- Firefighter, Retired:C, Shawn- Musician/Entrepreneur:W, Zoe- Faithful Golden Retriever(RIP:(), 2014 Ford F150 3.5 EcoboostMax Tow pkg, 2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255 w/4pt Equalizer and 5 Mtn. bikes and 2 Road bikes