Which Cargo Trailer To Buy

[SweetLou]

I need to get a Cargo Trailer that is 12 x 7 or 8. There are so many brands and I have done my research but what I really wanted was opinions on whether to get a Tandem or single axle. It might carry some weight in the future but mostly it will travel 1500 ea trip back up to WA each year, then return 1500 mi. It needs to be dependable and stout.
Brands seem to settle with Wells Cargo, Pace, Featherlite. Torsion Springs, or leaf. If any one has experience or opinions on this I would like to hear them.

[deltabravo]

Side vents are typically installed on trailers carrying motorized equipment (motorcycles, powersports equipment), to vent the gas fumes while traveling.

Front vent is usually up high on one side, rear vent is down low on the other side.

[deltabravo]

SweetLou wrote:
This is another area I am having a hard time about. I definitely will be installing Etrack, but how much and where ? I want the factory to install it so location is important prior to build.

Location will be determined by where / how / what you want to tie-down.

[MFL]

My trailer previously pictured, has a roof vent, which has never leaked, and two side vents. The side vents will open either direction, so you can tow with them, open to the rear.

I was amazed how well just the side vents work, with BLACK trailer just parked in the sun. I leave them open all the time. They breath well, with one side being low, and pictured, the other side being high.

I am sure being all aluminum helps, but interior stays much cooler in Summer sun than one would expect.

Jerry

[SweetLou]

I appreciate everyone's input here. Very insightful. Here is a question for everyone. For any Vents, do you put a roof vent or just side pocket type? Do the side ones even work if trailer is just sitting? Heck, running for that matter. I would think the roof one is just another area for it to leak someday.

[SweetLou]

nickthehunter wrote:

SweetLou wrote:

bid_time wrote:
While you are negotiating, make sure to get the price to have E-Track installed. Worth it's weight in gold.

This will be a must but where and how many?

I have full length along each wall about 2/3 the way up height wise. I have contemplated putting another row full length about 1/3 up, but really haven't found that it would be useful to me all that often. Nothing on the floor; for myself that has never been a need. My advice would be to attach the E-Track to the ribs of the trailer, not the plywood walls/floor.

This is another area I am having a hard time about. I definitely will be installing Etrack, but how much and where ? I want the factory to install it so location is important prior to build.

[mikegt4]

I happen to be shopping for a 24' enclosed car hauler now. I have a 16' equipment trailer that I have had since 2000 and it has been to both coasts and the gulf many, many times with no problems. I have hauled cars, trucks, boat trailers w/boat up on the deck and even my 2 small dozers.

The problem that I have found is that trailer manufactures are bought, sold, open and closed with regularity so the brand or model that served others well in the past isn't the same one produced today. This means that you have to closely inspect each trailer to determine what you are getting. Trailer manufactures are close cousins to RV builders and we all know the quality that they produce.

If I were the OP I would select:

tandem axles, brakes on both (a single axle in that size trailer will be quickly overloaded)
I could go with spring or torsion axles, many prefer torsion

side door

a wedge front can be good but watch for too short of a tongue

"Advantech", "Drymax" or equivalent 3/4" floor along with an undercoated frame to prevent rust, watch out for a lightly painted frame

decent interior height, nothing worse than bending over just to walk around in your trailer.

when shopping check the construction specs:
floor cross members and side posts 16" on center. cheap trailers will use 24" ctc. Z posts are cheapest, T posts better, tube posts are best. same with roof frames

cheap trailers will use luan for interior paneling, good ones will use 3/8" ply

.030" siding, cheap trailers will use .024"

one piece roof

watch for cheap screws holding the skin, they will start to rust in a few years, stainless is better, "screwless" siding eliminates that problem but costs more

Most manufactures have 3 product levels
base
midlevel (sometimes called "commercial") which is built to higher specs
top of the line flagship trailers , usually "race" trailers with all the bells and whistles.

IMHO, I would stay away from trailers made in Georgia, they all seem to have a terrible quality reputation. They are priced cheap because they are cheap. I have compared their weight to exactly the same size Indiana trailers (8.5' x 24') and usually find a 3-400 lb. difference. It's not because they use light weight aerospace materials.

aluminum construction vs. steel is a buyer's choice.
Aluminum is lighter allowing more payload but carries a hefty premium

[nickthehunter]

SweetLou wrote:

bid_time wrote:
While you are negotiating, make sure to get the price to have E-Track installed. Worth it's weight in gold.

This will be a must but where and how many?

I have full length along each wall about 2/3 the way up height wise. I have contemplated putting another row full length about 1/3 up, but really haven't found that it would be useful to me all that often. Nothing on the floor; for myself that has never been a need. My advice would be to attach the E-Track to the ribs of the trailer, not the plywood walls/floor.

[ktmrfs]

SweetLou wrote:

ktmrfs wrote:
I've got a pace with close to 50K miles on it. converted it to a home built toy hauler, living quarter trailer when I got it. 7x14. It's been absolutely trouble free.

Neighbor has had two Pace larger trailer for his go cart buisiness. He has put 100K + miles on each, again trouble free.

Our son's work trailer for hauling motorcycles and quads around the state for state parks is a Pace, again close to 100K miles on it. held up well, again trouble free.

All the above have the torsion axles.

The models of Pace, were they the premium or middle of the road models?

they were all cargo sports, which IIRC at the time were not the entry level of the line. at the time all of them were bought they had, may still have, an entry level line that was more basic. I don't recall them having a line above what we all bought, but they may have.

[Bedlam]

SweetLou wrote:
Just behind the truck. I can tow doubles, but not planning to do it. Can you describe the e-track set up you have better as far as its locations and length?

My wheel wells protrude into the trailer and there are tie downs in in each corner. I have 5' lengths of e-track which I purchased from Harbor Freight and installed with many wood screws on the floor. 15' of e-track is centered left to right in my 8' wide trailer. My trailer has 4' long beaver tail, so I started the e-track after the incline and am short of the front wall by about a 1'. 15' of e-track was attached to the floor next to each wheel well resulting in three 15' strips on the floor. I ran 5' of e-track vertically on the side walls to tie down loose items. Four 5' strips are evenly spaced down the wall with one side using sheet metal going into the vertical trailer wall studs and the other side of the e-track with wood screws into the wall panel.

My trailer extends the capacity and length of my camping, so I carry five batteries, 2x42 gallons of fresh water, 30 gallons of gray waste, 4x5 gallons of gasoline, and 2x20 lbs and 2x30 lbs of LPG.

[Dadoffourgirls]

I towed a 6x12 single axle v-nose trailer from Michigan to Kansas behind a 2016 Suburban. The trailer was filled (completely) with everything my daughter needs for the next 4-5 years of school.

I averaged 10 mpg going, and 9 mpg coming back empty. I was expecting better mileage since it was single axle, and 6 foot wide.

Based on this, if I was getting my own a would get a tandem axle and go as big as I might ever need. I know that this trailer was purchased thinking that 6 ft wide and single axle would result in better mpg than anything bigger.

[GottaRunGottaCa]

"Just behind the truck. I can tow doubles, but not planning to do it. Can you describe the e-track set up you have better as far as its locations and length?"

If you have the trailer built for you, they will weld the e-track to the frame and then install the plywood (floors & walls) or you can install it yourself, as far as where to put it, well that depends on what you want to tie-down, as for myself I will be hauling two motorcycles and whatever the wife tells me to haul, so I will be putting complete lengths in, three on the floor (one in the center and one on each side) and two on each wall (one at 18" and one at 48")

[SweetLou]

Bedlam wrote:
Is this trailer to be double towed behind your fifth wheel or just behind the truck? I suggest matching the wheel and body width to the vehicle to which it is primarily attached for the best handling.

I tow a 20' enclosed Interstate Car Hauler which is 8' wide. I wanted the ability to carry toys or a car, so I have dual 5200 lb torsion axles. I feel the torsion axles are much easier on your trailer and load since each wheel can move independently of the others. I run three lengths of e-track on the floor and run four strips vertically on each long wall. I do not have an escape door on the left side, but I can get in and out of my vehicles without one. My right side door has an RV style latch allowing opening and locking from the inside.

Just behind the truck. I can tow doubles, but not planning to do it. Can you describe the e-track set up you have better as far as its locations and length?

[SweetLou]

bid_time wrote:
While you are negotiating, make sure to get the price to have E-Track installed. Worth it's weight in gold.

This will be a must but where and how many?

[SweetLou]

ktmrfs wrote:
I've got a pace with close to 50K miles on it. converted it to a home built toy hauler, living quarter trailer when I got it. 7x14. It's been absolutely trouble free.

Neighbor has had two Pace larger trailer for his go cart buisiness. He has put 100K + miles on each, again trouble free.

Our son's work trailer for hauling motorcycles and quads around the state for state parks is a Pace, again close to 100K miles on it. held up well, again trouble free.

All the above have the torsion axles.

The models of Pace, were they the premium or middle of the road models?

[SweetLou]

The_real_wild1 wrote:
What are you hauling? I would suggest getting bigger then you need at this point. It is nice having the extra room and you might find yourself using it often. A 16' is press easy to haul especially if you get aluminum. I prefer a 8.5 wide as well over the 7 or 8. The 7' wide is easier to see behind you though while driving. My latest enclosed is a 8.5x20 v nose. I still manage to pack it full.

Currently hauling misc equipment and household items we use at both locations. Later it will be bulkier and maybe some heavier stuff after retirement for a side business.