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winter camping advice

lpranger467
Explorer
Explorer
Hello, We need to use a camper in northern Michigan over this winter while we build our home. We are trying to buy an "artic" version and likely wont use the water lines (I'll have jugs of water for flushing the toilet).

Will the onboard furnace be enough to warm the eunit in most cases in winter ? I'm very hesitant to leave my wife/cats alone in the trailer out of fear of a fire. I was wondering if electric baseboard heaters would work as well.

Any advice, experieces would be welcome
48 REPLIES 48

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi,

I've boondocked at -37 c (-34 f). Please surf to the full time forum and the sticky winter camping thread.

I'm able to heat 100% electrically at those temperatures. It does require using more than one shore power cord, if in a 30 amp RV.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

blt2ski
Moderator
Moderator
I used to go thru at worst, at least a 10 gal tank if temps were 0-20F at a local ski area with a Fleetwood Prowler back in the 90s to early 2000 time frame. one Issue I had, knew problem, did not fix until 9 yrs in, there was a drain Tee that would freeze up and keep water from getting into the bathroom, and from the hot water tank to the kitchen. fter removal, no issues with lack of water any where. My tank was under a couch in the main living area, so no freezing issues.
Being as you have power, having plenty of battery is not an issue. You might want more than a single size 24 that was seems std for power outages. Along with access to a 2500-300wt generator.
We also had the vent covers on the roof. This worked well in snow. except if it was blowing 30-50 mph, then snow came in. Once you had 2-3' on the top, no issues with snow getting in.
no do not use a slide in the out position if you get snow! or at least have many supports under it so it will not sag out, bend etc
As noted, even with the furnace going full time it can get cold. Have crtains etc drawn to keep the warmth in. Single pains with frost over!
also as noted, if reasonably permanant spot, you can put plywood, straw bales etc to make a skirt under to keep it warmer under you to a degree, so you should be warmer above.......
Big issue, i could go home 50 miles away towing the trailer to dry out, warm up, dump the tanks, altho some times it took longest 14 days to melt. Then again, its usually not below freezing in greater seatlle, but we do get a week or two with temps no higher than 32F.....
I would want to be starting the adventure a month or so ago myself, so you are preping in warmer temps etc....

Good luck.

marty
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dieseltruckdriv
Explorer II
Explorer II
We have used our current camper down to 2 degrees f, and we were nice and warm inside. We were in a boondocking spot for a couple of weeks, and could run a generator whenever we wanted. The only problem we had was we lost fresh water to the kitchen of our 5er for an hour or two with 35 mph plus winds.

When I said we were nice and warm, you have to understand that our 5er is built and insulated better than most. I would not have tried that with a camper built in Indiana. I wanted to test ours, and my wife was game, knowing it might get miserable at some point, and it really didn't. The difference is, we had a house 45 minutes away that we could go to, you will not have that option. That changes everything.

Whenever I have been to your area, you don't seem to get as cold as we do, but cold snaps can happen and change everything.
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RedRollingRoadb
Explorer
Explorer
Could you do a quick build of an enclosed storage building/barn that you could park the camper in? Then you would have it for a covered storage for it later.

Put some hookups in it and ventilate.

dedmiston
Moderator
Moderator
How long do you expect your build to take? Is there any chance you could find temporary foster housing for the cats so you could live in a rental until your construction is finished?

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theoldwizard1
Explorer
Explorer
lpranger467 wrote:
Thanks for all the replies. We have a seasonal site that we have reserved. It has sewer and electric.

If you are already paying for electricity you are crazy to NOT use as much of it as possible.

Many RVs have 30A connections which should handle 2 electric heaters. RVs with 50A connections should handle 4 !

ppine
Explorer II
Explorer II
Plenty of people live in them full time in cold climates, but it takes some experience. Good skirting with insulation, electric tape on plumbing lines. Do some reading about people that do it all the time. It can be done.

bgum
Explorer
Explorer
Only dump when the tank is half full or more.
Hay bales make good skirting and can be sawed to any size. Just beware the little creatures are also looking for a warm spot. Use oil filled electric heaters on low to supplement house heater. Prepare for a harsh winter and pray for a mild season.

Good luck with your endeavors.

wanderingaimles
Explorer
Explorer
4 seasons in an RV is based on some specific criteria.
Winter being in Florida,
Summer in New England,
and spring and fall being somewhere in between.

Follow their schedule, and you now have a 4 season RV.

wanderingaimles
Explorer
Explorer
If the catS are your wifes, is it safe to assume she grew up having cats?
If so, would someone from her family be able to house them through the winter?

JimK-NY
Explorer II
Explorer II
A lot will depend on the insulation in your camper. Most are really poorly insulated. Mine is good down to about 40 degrees. I have used it a few nights when the temps dropped into the lower 20s. The furnace ran a lot, it was still drafty, and felt cold. There was ice accumulation in some of the corners. The condensation was so bad the mattress got wet underneath.

I think you need a better plan.

lpranger467
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks very much. I also figure I would get a dehumidifier to keep condensation at bay. I'm still hoping a rental becomes available but not likely

schlep1967 wrote:
Depends on what the campground will allow but if possible enclose the bottom of the trailer and any slides you may have. Keeping the extreme cold out from under the trailer will help a lot to keep you warm. Tape up all seams so wind/cold can not get under there. You will want to keep the black and grey tanks closed until full. Then open to drain and make sure you walk the drain hose to get all of the liquids out. You don't want an ice plug in the hose the next time you need to dump.

lpranger467
Explorer
Explorer
Ya, we had really thought we could get a rental but we've had the rug pulled out from under us each time due to it being a very hot rental market (and cats). As that we arent using the water lines the only thing I really need is for the blackwater tank not to freeze. I'm wondering if I should leave valve open for the sewer line or allow it to fill up (with antifreeze mix) then dump


bikendan wrote:
lpranger467 wrote:
Hello, We need to use a camper in northern Michigan over this winter while we build our home. We are trying to buy an "artic" version and likely wont use the water lines (I'll have jugs of water for flushing the toilet).

Will the onboard furnace be enough to warm the eunit in most cases in winter ? I'm very hesitant to leave my wife/cats alone in the trailer out of fear of a fire. I was wondering if electric baseboard heaters would work as well.

Any advice, experieces would be welcome


Just realize that there are only a few manufacturers that make a true 4-season RV, such as Arctic Fox and Outdoors RV.
Having an "Arctic" package doesn't make it 4-season, only just 3-season at best. These packages are marketing gimmicks that usually only provide heat to the holding tanks. They rarely include increased insulation.
Unfortunately you are behind the 8-ball starting this so late.

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
lpranger467 wrote:
Thanks for all the replies. We have a seasonal site that we have reserved. It has sewer and electric. My plans would be to use bottled water only and to flush the toilet using a antifreeze/water mix and not turn on the water at all.

I'd like to get a 100 lbs propane tank, but if I have to switch 20 lbs bottles every 2 days or so it wouldnt be the end of the world for me.

I would like the option of using space heaters set on low maybe (750 watts) to supplement the heat so the furnace doesnt run as often.

We really have no choice but to be local due to our jobs, we have tried many different angles to rent a house/mobile home with absolutely no luck as all.

I'm frustrated to say the least but our cats are like our kids and we have to keep them with us for this move.


Your winters are going to be more harsh than where I live in PA and I would never consider attempting to live in a RV during winter. Your plan is fraught with issues and discomfort all to be able to keep your cats.

Even using RV antifreeze to flush your toilet isn't going to fully prevent issues with your black water tank and it will be expensive to do so at $3-$5 per gallon.

Your going to burn that 100lb propane tank easily in a week or less and still will feel cold/chilled. Adding in electric heaters will help to some extent but unless you have 50A hookups and site is not on a electric meter you are very limited to one 1500W heater max with 30A 120V service and if metered that will be the most expensive heat you will ever encounter.

Have a neighbor that used a small TT for one winter while their log home was being built.. They said that was the absolute worst idea and wouldn't want to do that again. They were always cold, used lots of propane and electric and still wore heavy coats inside the RV.

Find an pet friendly apartment or home you can rent over the winter, they do exist. May not be in the most ideal neighborhood or location to work but they are out there.

Barring finding a pet friendly apartment or home to rent, consider adopting out your cats to new good homes where they will be loved dearly.

Once your new home is built, then build your new family, heck you might even adopt some unloved cats that live in shelters and give those less fortunate cats a new permanent good home.

schlep1967
Nomad
Nomad
Depends on what the campground will allow but if possible enclose the bottom of the trailer and any slides you may have. Keeping the extreme cold out from under the trailer will help a lot to keep you warm. Tape up all seams so wind/cold can not get under there. You will want to keep the black and grey tanks closed until full. Then open to drain and make sure you walk the drain hose to get all of the liquids out. You don't want an ice plug in the hose the next time you need to dump.
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