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ZEP Floor Wax Update

JimK-NY
Explorer II
Explorer II
At this time of year many of us are de-winterizing and getting our RVs ready for another season. If you are about to wash and wax your RV, perhaps my comments on Zep floor wax will be of interest.

I forgot the exact year but about 6 years ago in the Spring, I washed my RV and applied a coat of paste wax, Meguiars Flagship Premium Marine. The results were not good with lots of swirls and blotchy areas. I applied a second coat and the results were no better. I decided it was time to try ZEP.

I stripped off the Meguiars, scrubbed with Bar Keepers Friend and applied several thin coats of ZEP. Over the past 6 years I have added a couple more coats of ZEP with no additional surface prep except for washing. With one exception, the results have been outstanding. The shine still looks like new. I barely need to wash the RV. Just spraying with a hose removes dirt. There have been no black streaks, no yellowing, no peeling, no sign of deterioration or oxidation.

There has been on exception--the nose of the RV. Baked on bug splatters and road grime have taken a toll. I had to use ZEP stripper to remove the old wax coats and I am about ready to reapply a few coats of ZEP, probably 4 or 5 thin coats.

I will be happy to answer any questions on using ZEP. I will say that good surface prep is essential before applying. Old wax and oxidation needs to be stripped off. Doing the prep is a one time thing as opposed to the work of using traditional waxes at least once or twice a year.
21 REPLIES 21

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
Poilglow is used for oxidized FG boats. It is more expensive than Zeps but people on here have used it with good results.

ken56
Explorer
Explorer
I've needed a solution to the light oxidation on my 2017 TT. I keep it outside in the yard and don't cover it and the sun is brutal. Researching I found a product called Poli-Glow. I had heard of using the Zep before but was concerned that it was an indoor product and was skeptical of using it on the trailer. The Poli-Glow so the advertising says is formulated to bond with the fiberglass and has the UV protection in it.....OK, advertising is advertising I know. We shall see how it works soon enough.

JimK-NY
Explorer II
Explorer II
If you read the Zep/Red Max Pro Application Process, you might become discouraged at the amount of work needed. The post describes what is needed if you have an oxidized and dirty RV. You will need to scrub off that old, oxidized layer regardless of the final coat you chose so applying Zep is no more difficult than any other wax job. As described, there is one added step. You need to use TSP, dilute ammonia or some other wax stripper to remove any previous waxes. That additional step is pretty easy, just use a long-handled mop and go over the surface a couple of times.

Doing a good initial job of surface prep will mean your Zep finish will last and save you many, many hours or days of work over the years.

I did not try Zep on a new RV with a shiny gel coat. When I started mine was a few years with minimal chalky oxidation. I did have lots of black streaks below the gutter spouts, windows and wherever water flowed off the RV. Zep has all but stopped that streaking.

gbopp
Explorer
Explorer
For anyone not familiar with the Zep/Red Max Pro process, here it is.

Zep/Red Max Pro Application Process

NamMedevac_70
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have used ZEP car wash along with 303 protectant and blue Turtle Wax Ice on all my trucks and TT RV for many years with great results from all three. No residue or much mess from any of them. Easy to use with no cleanup required. I hold them close and thank the L

ol_Bombero-JC
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the update.

For anyone looking for old threads, before Zep - search on "Red Max Pro" in the archives (topics over 12 months old).

Over the years there was lots of discussion & info.

~

Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Explorer II
ferndaleflyer wrote:
I think that was sold at Lowes and called "Red Max" at one time. I still have a gallon.


"Red Max" was Lowes private labeled brand of ZEP packaged by the ZEP folks. Any instructions still floating around the Internet for Red Max use on RV's also apply to ZEP.
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate

Jayco23FB
Explorer
Explorer
Will it work on aluminum siding?
Jayco G2 23FB
2007 Chevrolet 2500HD 6.0L

JaxDad
Explorer III
Explorer III
We've been using ZEP floor wax on our tractors and other farm equipment for a very long time.

It cuts clean up time to a mere fraction of what it used to.

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
wa8yxm wrote:
I used auto wax for years... Wipe on, Whip off and power buff.. No problems.

Save for the level of effort required. And the fact that the Zep is more applicable to an already oxidized surface.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
I used auto wax for years... Wipe on, Whip off and power buff.. No problems.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
My results have been about the same as yours using Zeps. I think where people had problems in the past is on newer MH's with a shiny gel coat and it did not adhere well to the shiny surface. I adheres much better to an older oxidized surface that has been properly prepared.

JimK-NY
Explorer II
Explorer II
wildtoad wrote:
Years ago I used a different floor product but essentially the same and also had good luck. To me, the floor product makes a good “base” and done properly provides a good shine. I would suggest to add an additional step and apply a product that provides UV protection.


Several years ago I researched this because ZEP was really designed for interior floors and has no added UV protectants. First I learned that regular car waxes often claim to have UV protectant additives but testing has shown the amounts and durability to be little more than advertising claims. I had considered spraying with 303 and then coating with ZEP. I was afraid the 303 would cause issues and the ZEP would not adhere. I thought about spraying 303 after coating with ZEP. I realized that would be virtually worthless. 303 is only effective for about 3 months. Anyway after years of ZEP only there is no sign of UV damage or oxidation. Acrylic by itself protects against UV and probably provides better UV protection than most UV treatments.

JimK-NY
Explorer II
Explorer II
ReneeG wrote:
Good feedback. Thank you. What about decals, is it ok on the decals, no yellowing? We just paid $7k last year to redo all the decals on our FW with high quality, guaranteed to not fade decals. I guess I should be asking the manufacturer too.
Thanks.


My RV was built in 2004. I don't have any problems with them. They are still stuck on and I don't believe there has been any fading. ZEP should provide a protective layer.