Tainted ingredients sour China's global honey business; As Chinese food products appear on tables around the world, fears arise about agricultural methodsVancouver Sun
Tue 08 May 2007
FUFENG, China -- For two years, Sun Baoli has been trying to clean up the dirty honey business here. He's been met with nasty stings from bees, but those are nothing compared with the curses and punches from their keepers.
The 52-year-old entrepreneur paid the local government about $5,000 to rent part of a nature preserve teeming with nectar-filled acacia trees. He's been recruiting beekeepers to harvest on the grounds, and all he asks is that they follow a few simple health rules. First, no using antibiotics in their colonies; the drugs can make people sick. Second, no storing honey in metal containers; those can taint the sweet goo with toxic iron and lead.
Some 45 keepers have signed up. But many others are hostile to his efforts, which they see as a threat to their decades-old way of doing business on the cheap, making easy profits.
On Saturday night, as the first acacia flowers were starting to bloom, a gang of 15 local bee farmers ambushed Sun as he got out of his red Isuzu truck, beating him and leaving him with a mild concussion.
"It's going to take some time," he said with obvious understatement.
Honey and thousands of other Chinese food products are showing up more often on dinner plates around the world. Last year, China said it exported $3.8 billion worth of food to the U.S., including vast quantities of apple juice, garlic, sausage casings, canned mushrooms and honey.
In any given month, though, U.S. customs inspectors block dozens of Chinese food shipments, including produce contaminated with banned additives and pesticides, and seafood tainted with drugs. In wake of the recall of pet foods that American regulators believe contained tainted Chinese ingredients, China's food-safety standards have become dinner table conversation across the United States.
U.S. inspectors believe that the pet food was made with wheat gluten and rice protein from China containing the chemical melamine, used in plastic. Although officials in Beijing say there is no evidence that melamine killed American pets, they moved to ban its use in food, as the U.S. does. And President Hu Jintao said China must produce more chemical-free foods and do a better job of ensuring that producers follow safety standards.
But as the honey business in this remote region in western China shows, major obstacles remain.
Even where standards have been set, making them known to millions of far-flung peasants is an enormous task. Many farmers are poor and uneducated. Short-term profits are so important that farmers, traders and brokers have little incentive to change old practices.
The result is a constant stream of tainted and sometimes poisonous food. Last year, duck farmers added cancer-causing Sudan B to their animal feed to make yolks redder and bring a higher price. In 2004, baby formula missing key nutrients left 13 infants dead and hundreds ill.
In 2002, Chinese honey was blocked first by the European Union and then the United States after shipments tested positive for chloramphenicol, an antibiotic banned in foods by many countries because it has been known to cause a fatal blood condition.
Later that year, China's Ministry of Agriculture outlawed the use of chloramphenicol in food production, and last year the Agricultural Science Association of China added it and nine other medicines, including penicillin, to its list of drugs prohibited in food.
The efforts by China helped restore shipments to the West, and in 2006 exports of Chinese honey to the U.S. grew by 14 per cent to $27.3 million. It is widely used as an ingredient in breads, cakes, barbecue sauces and jams.
But for many beekeepers, old habits die hard.
Wang Zhonggang, 50, pitched his tent in the acacia forest here in Shaanxi province, about two hours' drive west of Xian, a couple of weeks ago. He had 60 bright-blue boxes, each hive filled with 20,000 to 30,000 bees. Like other beekeepers in China's west, Wang had spent the winter months in southern Sichuan province before making his way north to Fufeng for the acacia bloom.
Earlier this year, Wang says, he averted a near disaster when his bees suddenly became lethargic and their numbers appeared to decline. The second-generation beekeeper thinks they got sick after drinking water polluted by runoff from a chemical plant.
Wang went to a local drug store and bought 10 pinky-sized tubes of penicillin for about $1. He says he mixed the medicine with sugar water and fed it to his bees. It didn't take long before they became active and produced honey.
Wang knew that chloramphenicol was illegal, but he had no idea that penicillin was another type of antibiotic and its use also had been restricted. He says he stores the honey he collects in both iron and plastic containers.
"The government doesn't care what we do," he said, squatting under a tree as the sun was setting over the hills of Fufeng, a region redolent with apples and peppers where the average annual per capita income is about $400, people in town say.
Wang says he sells his honey to dealers who make their rounds in the woodlands. Some of these traders will bring antibiotics for the keepers, but it's just as easy for keepers to call a local drug store and someone will deliver chloramphenicol or other medicines they request.
"The reason these farmers use antibiotics is simple. It is very cheap and effective," said Wang Fengzhong, an expert on China's honey industry at the Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences in Beijing.
No one knows what percentage of Chinese beekeepers still use antibiotics.
In recent years, more farmers have switched to herbal medicines, said Li Chaohui, vice-general manager of Huakang Foreign Trade Honey Product Co. in Fufeng. Li says his company collects honey from local farmers and sells it to factories along China's coast.
Li thinks 30 per cent of Chinese honey comes from bees treated with antibiotics, but Sun Baoli believes the figure is as high as 70 per cent.
Sun bases his estimate on the number of beekeepers he turns away because they don't want to follow his rules. Sun, who made a small fortune selling oil drilling equipment and tools, says he got into the business because he loved honey.
In the hot summers, he would gulp down one glass after another of cold water mixed with acacia and other varieties of honey.
Sun hired a bee technician to help beekeepers keep their colonies strong without using medicine, and he doles out free plastic storage containers for honey.
Still, people argue with him or his wife about why they can't use iron containers, which are more durable.
"They say, 'It's just a little amount of antibiotics that I use. What's wrong with it?' " he said.