Ok. So my 12V lights or any of the 12V system for that matter is not working in my MH. I have used a voltmeter on the batteries and I'm getting 12.6V. I have also measured the positive end of the fuses in the converter with the negative lead on the casing and am getting the same 12.6V So I know the power is making it to the distribution center. When I plug in to shore power the 12V lights come on, but They will dim and brighten about ever 5 seconds or so consistently. Every time this happens I hear a toong! sound. I should have checked into the sound more closely in hindsight but I assume it to be a relay or solenoid inside the converter clicking over. This is very puzzling to me as this did not happen last summer when using the MH. I also checked the 30A fuse on the wire going from the battery to the converter and got a resistance reading across it so I'm sure that's good. Also I checked the negative cable ground to frame and that was nice and tight. I have cleaned the corrosion off of all of the battery cables and I'm POSITIVE (pun intended) that all of the connections are good.There is a thing along the negative battery cable between the battery and frame ground that appears to be a resettable breaker (at least it looks a lot like one). The only thing about it though is that it has no reset button on it anywhere. Believe me I checked all around on it a few times for a button and there is nothing. When I measure from the positive battery connection to the connection on the negative side AFTER or BEHIND this resettable breaker? thingy I am only getting about 2ish to 4ish volts. Is this my culprit?Any help would be appreciated. I have reservations for a week long period in about 2 weeks and would really like to have the lights working. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!Greg H

It's always the ground wire. You have a ground wire that is causing you some problems. That's my guess at any rate

Also, could the thing with the converter dimming then brightening the lights and clicking have something to do with the battery system not being properly grounded? I had read somewhere that the converter will click over (with the relay) to use a second converter to charge the battery. Or does the battery help to supplement the converter when connected to shore power? When I first measured the battery 2 days ago it was only 9V. The next day it was 12.6V. There is a solar panel on the roof which charges the battery, so I believe this is why it went up to 12.6V in a day. Could this have something to do with it?Sorry for the long-winded posts. I just really need to get to the bottom of this issue soon.

With the RV unplugged, measure the voltage across the battery. Put your meter leads directly on the battery posts (not the connectors). If you get a good 12V+ reading, then move the leads to the connectors to see if the voltage is getting through the connection.Are you sure the noise you hear when plugged in is not that little circuit breaker opening and closing under load? It is an auto-reset breaker, NOT a manually reset breaker.I would clean and tighten all those battery connections.

Remove the negative cable from the battery and measure the voltage first. I suspect your reading the solar panel voltage.

OnaQuest, it could very well be that breaker that's making the noise. I will have to check when I get home. If that's the case... what would be making it do that? No ground? overloaded circuits? weak battery?Now that I think about it when I got the 9v reading I may have been on the posts. I know I got the 12.6V reading on the connectors. This makes me think donn0128 is correct that I was reading the solar panel voltage. Maybe my batteries just need a good charge. Thanks for all of the input! I'll check it out tonight and keep you all posted.

12V electrical problems | Good Sam Community

mchero
Explorer
May 06, 2014
I just purchased an 07 Discovery. My Xantex displayed charged batteries BUT the panel for the tank levels told me the house batteries where 8 volts!!!!!!

I inspected te battery bank & found one connection so hot water was sizzling when I hit it with water, I was using bakeing soda & water to nutralize the acid!

I replaced two battery connect cables.

Goes to show you, crappy battery cables can take out a perfectly good set of batteries!
wa8yxm
Explorer III
May 06, 2014
Regarding proper fill level.. I have always been taught you fill to just below the bottom of the filler tube, also known as "Split ring" like 1/8 to 1/4 inch.. I might add DEKA makes that exact same recommendation.. IF batteries need charging fill to like half way between plates and tube, CHARGE then top off then equalize.

Re: Magnetek converters: I often talk of two converters.. If you have a magnetek I recommend you UPGRADE

If you have a Progressive Dynamics IntellaPower 9200.. There is no upgrade.

Randy, BestConverters (or bestconverter,, I can never remember if you need that trailing "S") is the man to order from.
Gargamel
Explorer
May 06, 2014
ok. I'll get a hydrometer. Thanks!
westend
Explorer
May 05, 2014
Gargamel wrote:
Would you happen to know if the Duracells are any good? I know they are good with regular ol AA and AAA and smaller sizes but I didn't know till this weekend that they actually make batteries that large. I've never seen one anyway. Hopefully they last as long as the other ones did. I'm not sure if I have to put water in these ones or not. I'll have to read the battery. The other ones I had were maintenance free, which was nice for someone like myself that has never had to put water in a battery. Good luck at the battery shop!
Duracell is a licensed brand name, they don't make golf cart batteries. My Duracell batteries bought at Sam's Club were made by Johnson Controls.

Yes, they need water, occasionally. Fill only to the bottom of the hole or over the plates.

Do yourself and your batteries a favor and buy a good hydrometer. A hydrometer measures specific gravity of the fluid (electrolyte) in your battery and will be the most accurate indicator of battery health. The best hydrometer is made by Frease Glass Works but other hydrometers which have a glass tube and glass float may approach good accuracy.
Gargamel
Explorer
May 05, 2014
Would you happen to know if the Duracells are any good? I know they are good with regular ol AA and AAA and smaller sizes but I didn't know till this weekend that they actually make batteries that large. I've never seen one anyway. Hopefully they last as long as the other ones did. I'm not sure if I have to put water in these ones or not. I'll have to read the battery. The other ones I had were maintenance free, which was nice for someone like myself that has never had to put water in a battery. Good luck at the battery shop!
wa8yxm
Explorer III
May 05, 2014
YUP< average max life is a decade, you got 13 years.. I like Batteries Plus for most batteries. Got to go back there next payday.

Though I got my new house batteries at a DEKA store.
Gargamel
Explorer
May 05, 2014
No sorry I measured from the positive to chassis ground and got that voltage. I just typed the wrong thing. Anyhow, over the weekend I took the batteries out and tried to charge them up. Even though I was getting voltage there was no amperage whatsoever. I took them to Batteries Plus and they load tested them for free. They were both bad. Also, they were both dated Oct. 2001! The guy in there said it's unusual for batteries to last that long in an RV. I got two more deep cycle marines for $85 each. Put them in and everything works great. Thanks for all of the help everyone. I've learned a lot more about the electrical system in my unit. Now I just need to fix this damn roof leak and I'll be good to go for the summer.
Greg
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
May 02, 2014
"I measured from the negative lead of the battery to chassis ground and got a solid 12.6V"This statement says CLEARLY you measured the connection at battery post NEGATIVE to the chassis and got 12.6 volts. Right?

Those batteries had damned well been intentionally DISCONNECTED at the ground when you measured this. Right?

Or were the batteries CONNECTED, you hoping things would work, and you STILL got 12.6 between battery post negative and chassis ground?
Gargamel
Explorer
May 02, 2014
Ok. Thanks. I will take a picture of it later today. Also, the converter is a MagneTek Series 3200 Model 3230 with battery charger.
30 Amp output
wa8yxm
Explorer III
May 02, 2014
Sould you take it out.. NOT at this time..

It has always been there? If it is a circuit breaker, and it's always worked in the past but has now failed.. REPLACE IT.

If it is a shunt that was installed for an ammeter that no longer exists (Was removed by prior owner) and it has burned out then replace it, or replace it with a circuit breaker.

please take PHOTO of device and any markings on it and post.. Experts here will very likely know which it is.

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