Hey all, ill try and make this short and conciseMY wife and i have been rving for about 5 years. We have had pop ups, travel trailers and this year we stepped up to the plate for our first (what i consider) big trailerPicked up a nice 2014 KZ 36 foot toy hauler 5th wheelSory folks after a $70k truck to tow with the voltage was out of the question or any of the other big names but the KZ we could afford and we liked it.It does not have the second AC unit but does have the 15,000 BTU AC upgradeTrailer is wired for 30 amp serviceAC is a coleman machI picked up the trailer out of state so the dealer is NO helpOn the way home with our new toy we spent a night in an RV park just for the road tripAC seemed to work just fine and was nice and coldFinally got home and went to transfer all of our stuff to our new trailer in the driveway. The dealer told me the AC would run on a single 20 am standard house electrical socket as long as it was all you were using. So i decided to plug her in and turn it on given the fact it was 99 degrees out todayThe AC never got really cold. I took out the temp gun and it never really blew much below 75 degrees. It just was like a fan.I took the grill off inside the trailer and made sure the filters were clean. The ducting was good with no leaks and not loosing any cold air. It all looked nice and fine as you would expect from a newer trailerits a 2014 Went up on the roof, took the cover off, and cleaned out the condenser and looked at the caps. Everything looked in order will no sign of strangenessIs it possible its not really turning on because its not on a real 30 amp service plug but just on an adapter to a regular 3 prong house outlet.Any suggestions?The wife is about to beat me for buying the "broken trailer "and of course the dealer being out of state is absolutely no help

99* outside and you get 75* air inside? That sounds pretty good. You can have any dealer check out the AC and get warranty work done if needed. BTW, a 2nd AC would make things a lot better.

azdryheat wrote:99* outside and you get 75* air inside? That sounds pretty good. You can have any dealer check out the AC and get warranty work done if needed. BTW, a 2nd AC would make things a lot better.it was more like 81 actuallymy laser thermometer is a posYes i agree that a 2nd ac would be better but we live in colorado. 99% of the year we are in the mountains campingIts 60 degrees up there and us the AC twice a yearit just happens to be very hot lately at homeI know where your at in AZ a 2nd is like standard equipmentbeggars can't be choosers.We are lucky to have what we doMy question is really the followingCan one run a coleman mach 15k btu AC on a house cord or is that my problem

If the air going into the unit is 80F, then the air going out should be about 58 - 64F.Was the air on the rooftop side blowing out warm or hot? It should have been, but guessing that you shut it off before going up there to check the capacitors and remove the cover.Where you using the same extension cord used for your garden tools, or did you plug the RV directly into the home receptacle?If you where using a small diameter cord, that could be the problem. You really need to check the voltage inside the RV while it is running. If it is taking in 80F air and blowing out 70F air, then it is low on freon. Adding freon is a "Option" but they would need to install a freon filler valve, and that cost would be over $100. Find a leak (your system would only hold about 2 pounds of freon, due to it's small size) might be difficult. If it is leaking, and you do not repair the leak, then it will all leak out again. The biggest problem is that the repair (if you can find anyone interested in spending 4 hours working on such a small system) is that the cost usually is close to what a new one costs. If it is only 4-5 years old, then warranty repair might be possible. Call Coleman and ask. They will need the serial number for the unit.Good luck!Fred.

I have one of those volt meters that you plug in to a receptical it was reading 114 while we were using a 20 amp to run the AC. We were also using a 30 ft 30amp cord atached to our 30ft 50amp with a 50>30 dogbone and then a 30>20 reducer. AC is 12 years old.

18 to 20 degree differential is normal for any air conditioner-home or RV.

15000 BTU AC troubleshooting or not? | Good Sam Community

azdryheat
Explorer
Jun 20, 2016
99* outside and you get 75* air inside? That sounds pretty good. You can have any dealer check out the AC and get warranty work done if needed. BTW, a 2nd AC would make things a lot better.
automagp68
Explorer
Jun 20, 2016
azdryheat wrote:
99* outside and you get 75* air inside? That sounds pretty good. You can have any dealer check out the AC and get warranty work done if needed. BTW, a 2nd AC would make things a lot better.

it was more like 81 actually

my laser thermometer is a pos

Yes i agree that a 2nd ac would be better but we live in colorado.
99% of the year we are in the mountains camping
Its 60 degrees up there and us the AC twice a year
it just happens to be very hot lately at home

I know where your at in AZ a 2nd is like standard equipment
beggars can't be choosers.
We are lucky to have what we do

My question is really the following

Can one run a coleman mach 15k btu AC on a house cord or is that my problem
Golden_HVAC
Explorer
Jun 20, 2016
If the air going into the unit is 80F, then the air going out should be about 58 - 64F.

Was the air on the rooftop side blowing out warm or hot? It should have been, but guessing that you shut it off before going up there to check the capacitors and remove the cover.

Where you using the same extension cord used for your garden tools, or did you plug the RV directly into the home receptacle?

If you where using a small diameter cord, that could be the problem. You really need to check the voltage inside the RV while it is running.

If it is taking in 80F air and blowing out 70F air, then it is low on freon. Adding freon is a "Option" but they would need to install a freon filler valve, and that cost would be over $100. Find a leak (your system would only hold about 2 pounds of freon, due to it's small size) might be difficult. If it is leaking, and you do not repair the leak, then it will all leak out again. The biggest problem is that the repair (if you can find anyone interested in spending 4 hours working on such a small system) is that the cost usually is close to what a new one costs.

If it is only 4-5 years old, then warranty repair might be possible. Call Coleman and ask. They will need the serial number for the unit.

Good luck!

Fred.
stickdog
Explorer
Jun 20, 2016
I have one of those volt meters that you plug in to a receptical it was reading 114 while we were using a 20 amp to run the AC. We were also using a 30 ft 30amp cord atached to our 30ft 50amp with a 50>30 dogbone and then a 30>20 reducer. AC is 12 years old.
Mandalay_Parr
Explorer
Jun 20, 2016
18 to 20 degree differential is normal for any air conditioner-home or RV.
j-d
Explorer II
Jun 20, 2016
Did you use an "RV" extension cord with the big 30A connections? Even with those, your power will shrink quickly, and power tool/Christmas lights cords are not really enough.

If your fiver is 30A, you won't be able to run two A/C's at once. You'll have to do manual "load shedding" or buy a device to do that for you.

As a 2014, it would be good to pull the A/C shroud (plastic cover) then the upper front sheet metal that encloses the indoor coil (evaporator) and clean the evaporator along with the drain pan. Keep track of which length screw is used where, and if the tip is blunt or pointed. Outside coil (condenser) too, the one at the rear by the outdoor fan. Power OFF, you can use 409, a soft brush, and a mild water spray. Garden sprayer with clear water works well. Use towel to keep water out of coach interior.
dougrainer
Nomad
Jun 20, 2016
36 foot and 1- 15k AC unit. 99 degrees outside. It will NOT cool period. Now, at this point, you need the compressor amps checked. NOTHING else will do for a check out other than this. Once that is done will determine if the AC unit is performing to spec. RVP(Coleman) will not warranty this unit. It is too old. Doug
ksg5000
Explorer
Jun 20, 2016
AC ain't that old - worked when it was hooked up to 30 amp power - not working when hooked up to your house. Anything is possible but chances are the current hookup to your house isn't supplying enough juice to kick start the compressor.

Make sure you have the proper extension cord. Also - turn your refrigerator and water heater to "gas" and if your converter is trying to charge your batteries you might consider turning the breaker to that off. When you start the AC listen to see if the compressor kicks in - also monitor the voltage (something like a Kill a Watt comes in handy).
wa8yxm
Explorer III
Jun 20, 2016
Blowing 75 when outside is 90 and you are in full sun might not be defective

To be sure you need to take 4 tempeture readings (Concenser inlet and outlet,m Evaporator inlet (Air intake at ceiling) and outlet. And two Humidity readings (inside and out) though these are somewhat optional.

Then the manufacturer can say "yup. working" But here in S.E. Ga on my 38' Class A with 28,500 BTUs of A/C (one 1500 one 13.5) I hit 80's here in the house on sunny days. Dang near hit 90 last week (Outside temp in 90's heat index over 100)
automagp68
Explorer
Jun 20, 2016
dougrainer wrote:
36 foot and 1- 15k AC unit. 99 degrees outside. It will NOT cool period. Now, at this point, you need the compressor amps checked. NOTHING else will do for a check out other than this. Once that is done will determine if the AC unit is performing to spec. RVP(Coleman) will not warranty this unit. It is too old. Doug

Thanks everyone for the replies

Let me clarify a few things

Coach is 35 feet but 10+ of it is garage.

Garage door was shut and vents closed as to not cool the garage.

I was using a plain old orange extension cord like for power tools or something.
Since we were parked at home nothing was on in the coach except the battery charger was running
Voltage at the plug is unknown but i can check that today.
When i was on the roof like i said in the first post i DID clean out the entire unit and check the ducting for leaks

Should the AC have separate breakers for fan and compressor? I doubt it but ill look today.

For those of you suggesting the AC will not cool the coach, why do they sell it then?
If that were the case i doubt i would be the first person to complain about it
I know a bigger unit would be "better" but like i said we typically use the ac twice a year
we camp in the colorado mountains