2 12 volt batterys or 2 6 volt
what gives me the most bang for my money. every other rig that I have bought always had 6 volt battery's but the new one has 2 12 volt. not sure what works better.
Forum Discussion
Ohhhhhhh........my poor widdo 2-volt battewies. The analogies all fall on their widdo butts about This Verus That.
Golf car batteries are not high CCA batteries. My 2-volt cells are pathetic CCA vs Weight of cell. Choose one......CCA or (this means a compromise is in order) longevity and resiliance to heavy or misuse. You are NOT I will repeat this s-l-o-w-l-y NOT NOT NOT NOT going to get BOTH with any 3 or 6 cell flooded battery.
"Ooooooo I gots six years out of my 6-cell battery"
Any comparison is simply NUTS got it? An Acme warehouse grade 3-cell versus a Rolls or Trojan 6-cell battery is like UNFAIR. I have done enough cycle life testing to state anyone who compares a 3-cell T105 to a 6-cell Trojan RV battery and claims cycle life count and resistance to hard sulfating will be "The Same" is not playing with a full deck. Any such comparison would be ludicrous.
Different types of batteries have different strengths and weaknesses. For instance with AGM it's Purchase Price and the AGMs dislike of slow initial charge rate and constant partial recharge.
Try to load the potential of a 2, 000 watt inverter with heavier than RV battery plates and you are going to find out it's going to take MORE WEIGHT of heavy plates to do the CCA required. There IS NO MAGIC BULLET flooded battery versus flooded battery.
And dammit I wrote 100-times on this forum about how the plates themselves are different between RV batteries and true deep cycle. RV battery plates are denser and harder. This means more than just "thickness". RV batteries are pasted with SOFTER MORE POROUS paste. This yields a higher CCA and reserve capacity PER pound of plate WEIGHT. comparison between mild steel and armor plating would be a good analogy. "Twice The Amperage Half The Lifespan" is utterly invalid here.
Compromise Compromise COMPROMISE!
But this thread has gotten OUT OF HAND with assumptions TOTALLY ABSURD apples and oranges comparisons and this may lead the original poster to come to a wrong conclusion about which battery TYPE to choose. This is not education. It is pure unadulterated B.S.
Another fallacy is the parallel versus series hoohah. An RV battery is perhaps FIVE TIMES AS LIKELY to develop a failed cell than a true deep cycle battery. Yes a parallel string of batteries can still function when One Cell Dies. But that dead cell is going to CRIPPLE the other battery. Self discharge and eating excessively.
So please stop with the arm twisting, sales-speak, already.
Study
Weigh strengths and weaknesses of EACH battery type
Then decide which is the best COMPROMISE for you AS AN INDIVIDUAL.
This will be my last post on this thread. It's time to stick seeds in it and water, well. I expect Jack and the Beanstock growth after it being saturated with BS.
Golf car batteries are not high CCA batteries. My 2-volt cells are pathetic CCA vs Weight of cell. Choose one......CCA or (this means a compromise is in order) longevity and resiliance to heavy or misuse. You are NOT I will repeat this s-l-o-w-l-y NOT NOT NOT NOT going to get BOTH with any 3 or 6 cell flooded battery.
"Ooooooo I gots six years out of my 6-cell battery"
Any comparison is simply NUTS got it? An Acme warehouse grade 3-cell versus a Rolls or Trojan 6-cell battery is like UNFAIR. I have done enough cycle life testing to state anyone who compares a 3-cell T105 to a 6-cell Trojan RV battery and claims cycle life count and resistance to hard sulfating will be "The Same" is not playing with a full deck. Any such comparison would be ludicrous.
Different types of batteries have different strengths and weaknesses. For instance with AGM it's Purchase Price and the AGMs dislike of slow initial charge rate and constant partial recharge.
Try to load the potential of a 2, 000 watt inverter with heavier than RV battery plates and you are going to find out it's going to take MORE WEIGHT of heavy plates to do the CCA required. There IS NO MAGIC BULLET flooded battery versus flooded battery.
And dammit I wrote 100-times on this forum about how the plates themselves are different between RV batteries and true deep cycle. RV battery plates are denser and harder. This means more than just "thickness". RV batteries are pasted with SOFTER MORE POROUS paste. This yields a higher CCA and reserve capacity PER pound of plate WEIGHT. comparison between mild steel and armor plating would be a good analogy. "Twice The Amperage Half The Lifespan" is utterly invalid here.
Compromise Compromise COMPROMISE!
But this thread has gotten OUT OF HAND with assumptions TOTALLY ABSURD apples and oranges comparisons and this may lead the original poster to come to a wrong conclusion about which battery TYPE to choose. This is not education. It is pure unadulterated B.S.
Another fallacy is the parallel versus series hoohah. An RV battery is perhaps FIVE TIMES AS LIKELY to develop a failed cell than a true deep cycle battery. Yes a parallel string of batteries can still function when One Cell Dies. But that dead cell is going to CRIPPLE the other battery. Self discharge and eating excessively.
So please stop with the arm twisting, sales-speak, already.
Study
Weigh strengths and weaknesses of EACH battery type
Then decide which is the best COMPROMISE for you AS AN INDIVIDUAL.
This will be my last post on this thread. It's time to stick seeds in it and water, well. I expect Jack and the Beanstock growth after it being saturated with BS.
