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2kw Inverter + 4 GC2 6v batteries = wiring???

DiskDoctr
Explorer
Explorer
I now have 4- 6volt GC2 215 batteries, PD9270 converter charger, and and a ProSine 1800 watt inverter (2800 watt surge) and want to start wiring.

I have a quantity of 2 AWG wire on a spool, a supply of tin clad copper wire ends in various sizes, and a heavy terminal "hammer spike crimper thing"

I would like to add a battery turn off and shunt to measure amps and also be able to measure voltage/charge remaining.

So here's the setup.

1. Four batteries in a row, long sides against each other. Call them A, B, C, D. A&B pair #1, C&D pair #2

2. Two 2 AWG cables for each section to allow higher amps. Ex. two 2 AWG cables between battery A(-) and B(+), and two 2 AWG cables between battery C(-) and D(+), and two 2 AWG cables between B(-) and C(+) to make two sets of series then paralleled together to get 12v "super battery" LOL

3. Two 2 AWG cables from D(-) to one end of shunt and then two 2 AWG cables from other end of shunt to inverter (switch, then (-)) and PD9270 (-)

4. Two 2 AWG cables from A(+) to inverter (+) and PD9270(+)

5. 120v AC line to distribution box (30 amp transfer switch?) and PD9270

It's a little foggy, so I'll stop there and ask for input ๐Ÿ˜‰

Wire size, wiring diagram, etc.

Caveat, the PS1800 has built in transfer switch, but I prefer not to use it. Want to keep a separate circuit and/or transfer switch at the 30 amp 120v incoming cable for pedestal/generator.

Help? ๐Ÿ˜‰
82 REPLIES 82

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
disckDoctor your wiring diagram is wrong you have a dead short on all your batteries

there are ONLY (4) interconnect wires used/needed
only one positive to negative connection in each pair
(2) batteries side by side positive to neg
is going to blow up

DiskDoctr wrote:
2oldman wrote:
For a 1200w appliance, this is what the approximate amperages to the inverter look like in your setup:



Before we get too involved in this, please share with us what will be the largest loads on your inverter.


Okay, so this is my planned battery wiring diagram.



Each of the 6 wires would be about a foot and would carry up to 100 amps each, correct? They wouldn't have to be doubled, right?

Then the two leads from the center to the right side of the drawing would have to carry 400 amps and would be...doubled 2 AWG (not 2/0), right?

Microwave 13amps is biggest load. I was trying to account for startup surge ๐Ÿ˜‰
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
I would skip the NC Relay and pull power for the converter from the Shore input of the TS30.

Just add a fuse same as the prewired GP TS-30


DiskDoctr
Explorer
Explorer
Here's an updated drawing. Would you guys please check it over?

Thanks!

*Removed old drawing*

DiskDoctr
Explorer
Explorer
BFL13 wrote:
You still need the battery neg to frame but now it goes via the shunt so the shunt can read anything that uses the frame for a neg path, which a lot of RV things do,


:S

Uhm...yeah. Don't tell anybody I actually asked that dumb question! LOL!

Yep...lots to digest!

I'm looking for 2/0, looks much more likely to happen and from the charts, double the distance- so double the capacity, right?

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
DiskDoctr wrote:
Looking at my diagram, if I move the shunt to the negative side, "what" gets grounded to the frame, anything?


You still need the battery neg to frame but now it goes via the shunt so the shunt can read anything that uses the frame for a neg path, which a lot of RV things do,
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

DiskDoctr
Explorer
Explorer
Looking at my diagram, if I move the shunt to the negative side, "what" gets grounded to the frame, anything?

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
DiskDoctr wrote:
So should I use the threaded posts or the terminals? Any preferences?
I would use both. Interconnects on one and the main inverter feed on the other.

On my link toward the start you can configure any way you like. Get the right stud hole in the lugs too. Most batteries are 5/16" and I think the inverter is 3/8". Do verify before you order.

DiskDoctr
Explorer
Explorer
2oldman wrote:
The cool thing about this unit is it displays on your smartphone:Victron BMV-700 meter (500a shunt)

DiskDoctr wrote:
I am having trouble finding 500amp shunt for ammeter-
The above is 500a.


Thanks, but that is about $100 or so more than I'd like to spend ๐Ÿ˜‰

I prefer the term "frugal" ... unless it saves me money ๐Ÿ˜› LOL

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
The cool thing about this unit is it displays on your smartphone:Victron BMV-700 meter (500a shunt)

DiskDoctr wrote:
I am having trouble finding 500amp shunt for ammeter-
The above is 500a.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

DiskDoctr
Explorer
Explorer
BFL13 wrote:
time2roll wrote:
I went 2/0 for the parallel connectors. Undiscovered bad connection could put full amps through one side.

Forget a switch and just have a fuse on the positive main cable near the battery. Fewer connections the better.


That is a valid point. Using twin thinner wires instead of one fat wire has that risk. Now it is down to your fuse(s) EG with a spec for a 300a fuse on the fat wire, you could go with two thinner wires to the 300a fuse or have a 150a fuse on each wire to the pos battery post.

In the latter case the 150a fuse on the one thinner wire now taking 300a would save the day.


All wisdom from you guys there ๐Ÿ™‚

So should I use the threaded posts or the terminals? Any preferences?

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
time2roll wrote:
I went 2/0 for the parallel connectors. Undiscovered bad connection could put full amps through one side.

Forget a switch and just have a fuse on the positive main cable near the battery. Fewer connections the better.


That is a valid point. Using twin thinner wires instead of one fat wire has that risk. Now it is down to your fuse(s) EG with a spec for a 300a fuse on the fat wire, you could go with two thinner wires to the 300a fuse or have a 150a fuse on each wire to the pos battery post.

In the latter case the 150a fuse on the one thinner wire now taking 300a would save the day.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

DiskDoctr
Explorer
Explorer
I am having trouble finding 500amp shunt for ammeter- except for Hong Kong and Amazon Prime ships in 1-2 months ๐Ÿ˜ž

Looks like I can make the PD9270 2 AWG quite easily, it's only 70 amps ๐Ÿ˜‰

DiskDoctr
Explorer
Explorer
time2roll wrote:
I went 2/0 for the parallel connectors. Undiscovered bad connection could put full amps through one side.

Forget a switch and just have a fuse on the positive main cable near the battery. Fewer connections the better.


Okay, so switch changes to fuse...how many amps?

Series connectors in Bank 1 and Bank 2 are okay with single 2 AWG 12" connectors, then use doubled 2 AWG for both the Bank 1 to Bank 2 connectors, and then use...

Doubled 2 AWG connectors to inverter and PD9270 for now and see how it goes?

Does this sound right?

DiskDoctr
Explorer
Explorer
BFL13 wrote:
IMO keep it simple for now and just go camping. IMO you are going faster than your research can keep up before your time to depart. IMO just use all that #2 as best you can and see how it all works, then start to tidy up as you figure it all out. At least I can't keep up! Maybe others can, no idea. ๐Ÿ™‚


Haha, yeah it's JUST like that! LOL ๐Ÿ™‚

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
I went 2/0 for the parallel connectors. Undiscovered bad connection could put full amps through one side.

Forget a switch and just have a fuse on the positive main cable near the battery. Fewer connections the better.