3000W Chinese Gensets Info.

[professor95]

professor95 wrote:
EDIT ADDED 45/5/2013- When this thread started in March of 2005, I never expected to see it survive this long or amass the quantity of information that has been shared here.

In the eight year run of this thread we have amassed almost 10,000 postings and surpassed a million views. This creates somewhat of a dilemma for anyone who has just discovered the forum.

Since the amount of information is virtually overwhelming, I suggest you set your preferences for this thread to read "newest first" and then begin to page backwards.

What you will find in these pages is a wealth of info on virtually any make or model of Chinese manufactured synchronous (non-inverter) generator in the 3,000 watt performance class. Info will include how to rewire series coils to parallel to obtain maximum wattage from a single 120 volt outlet. Tips on further reducing sound levels, how to care for these generators, which ones are "RV ready" and provide the best overall performance for the dollar invested. Which companies NOT to deal with, where the best prices are, how to safely wire the generator into a home or RV, how to check your RV for electrical faults, sources for generator accessories, which 20/30 adapters are safe to use and which are not. How to convert a gasoline generator to propane or NG. This is only the beginning. The forum has a life of its own with the focus sub-topic switching frequently. Still, the main topic of utilizing the amazing, inexpensive Chinese gensets is always there. The amount of creativity and innovation presented in these pages is indicative of the talents shared in the diverse backgrounds of the folks who make up our combined RV community.

Many of the original brands and models of Chinese gensets mentioned in the introduction and early pages of the thread have since disappeared. New EPA and CARB emissions requirements, company bonds assuring the emissions warranty will be honored even if the company goes out of business, and fierce competition in the industry have changed the playing field. Champion Power Equipment has become the apparent "trophy team" providing an ever expanding retail outlet, an ample parts supply, a strong warranty and excellent customer service. CPE has continued to improve their product and now offers a new model (#46538) with exclusive convenience, safety and performance features aimed at the RV market. Big names like Cummins/Onan, Honda and Generac all now have Chinese built open frame synchronous gensets available. Ironically, the prices often found on these gensets has not significantly changed during the past eight years - even with the devaluation of the American Dollar and new EPA/CARB requirements.

I also encourage you to use the search function and even the advanced search options to find information. Key works such as "rewiring", "PowerPro", "Champion", "Onan Homesite", "Duropower", "ETQ", "Jiung Dong or JD", "Tractor Supply", "Costco", "Lowe's" and "Home Depot" are all examples of keywords that will give you specific information on different models being sold by retailers today.

Or, you can fill your glass with your favorite beverage (keep more close by - maybe some munchies as well :D, sit back at your computer, tell your wife (or significant other) that you will see her in the morning and spend the next 10 or so hours reading through the postings.

No one on the forum gets mad if you ask a question that is a repeat. Please do not hesitate to post to the forum. All questions are considered important and those active on the forum will do their best to respond with a valid answer.

Also note we are not out to knock the Honda, Yamaha, Kipor or other brands of high end digital gensets. We recognize the quality of these products and their suitability for quite, efficient RV use. But, there is a flood of reliable, inexpensive and comparatively lower cost gensets coming out of China that are excellent alternative choices for the RVer wanting power to run an air conditioner, microwave, etc. without excessive noise or breaking the budget.

Oh, one last thing. The folks on this forum are true gentlemen. We do not flame one another or the product discussed - period. Ugly contributors usually have their comments and remarks ignored by our masses. It is not a forum to start arguments to obtain a clear win. We do disagree on many issues, but we have all agreed to do that in a respectable manner.

We now have the introduction of more and more inverter gensets. There is a rather extensive thread named "The Official Unofficial Champion 2000i Generator" on this forum. Today, I added info on the new Champion 3100i inverter genset. Discussion on this product may get moved to its own thread at a later date.

Many have looked upon this thread with distain saying Chinese is cheap and doomed to failure. I remember saying exactly the same thing about Japanese products a few decades back. But, over the past eight years the track record for Chinese built generators has shown otherwise.

Please, join us in a fascinating journey down the Chinese built genset road of knowledge.

This is the question I posted that got it all started back in March 2005.......

Randy

For a little over a month now, I have been somewhat intrigued by the availability of a 3000 watt, 6.5 HP generator at Pep Boys and Northern Tool for under $300.00. The engine on this generator looks identical to a Honda 6.5 HP OHV engine. Knowing that the Chinese have become very adept at “cloning” reputable technologies from other manufacturers, I was not surprised at the similarities. Neither store could give me any information on the generator nor did they have a “running” display model.

I have done a little research. This is what I have discovered:

Many of these generators are imported by ELIM International (www.eliminternational.com) out of Buffalo, New York from Jiung Manufacturing in China. (The unit at Northern is identical but carries the JIUNG name.)

The engines are indeed a Chinese knockoff of the popular 6.5 HP 196cc Honda Engine. “Supposedly” Honda has licensed the engine technology to the Chinese manufacturer of the product.

The Chinese company that makes the ELM3000 generators is a rather large, diverse, long-standing company with a reputation for “above average quality” Chinese made products (Jiung Manufacturing). There are many more Chinese companies making almost identical gensets.

The generators at PepBoys do have a six month limited warranty. But, it is only on the engine (not the generator) and requires paying for shipping to and from Buffalo. Probably not a very practical thing to do if you have warranty issues.

ELIM does supply replacement parts (a PDF parts manual is available on the ELIM web site). No prices are given for replacement parts nor is there an “availability listing”.

The generator head itself is a brushless design. The only really significant wear parts in the generator are the bearings – most likely universally available.

The published dB rating is 67 at 23 feet. This is “reasonably” quite for a generator of this size as most comparabl.... The 67 dB rating is the same as Honda gives their 3000 watt CycloInverter with a “look alike” eng...

[pitstop]

Floyd,
I just purchased the Champion and want to work on an enclosure for a winter project after reading thru all the posts on the subject.
I am considering a 3 sided w/ roof type, like the prof origially posted.

Since you have experimented with 9 or 10 boxes, I thought you might shed some light on materials tried and tested. I guess the likely candidates would be: foam/carpet, Celotex or similar, or other thick foams.

Also would be interested to know when you might have info on your new and improved design.
Thanks

[Pirate1]

MrWizard wrote:
try www.allectronic.com

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/MET-63/385/AC_VOLT_METER_.html

this one might fit..cost $1.75


heres another one cost $12.00
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/PMA-150V/385/150V_AC_PANEL_METER_.html

I don't think those will work. My ELM3000 meter is only about 1.5 inches x 1.5 inches. Thanks anyway.

[Old___Slow]

Well, I see the date of Oct. 17th on the Post of "dandreas611" showing his accomplishments and the date of Oct 15th on Professor's long and detailed post. So are we to think dandreas611 got all his ideas from Profs' post of Oct 15th? My thought is many folks who own Chinese gennys (some for several years) have some original ideas. Perhaps, if the truth were known, many have had projects in the making for quite a long time. It would be nice if this thread could continue with original thinking posted as time goes by.

[BFRXLT]

This is the post that gave my my original inspiration for the project. I don't have 12v at the generator so I am using a few different ideas I found at other places mixed in wiht some of my own ideas. This is the post that started it for me and for that I thank you.

professor95 wrote:

BFRXLT wrote:
I did see this posted. This would not work for my situation. I need more complete sound abatement.

How about something like this?

Professor95 wrote:
Sound Abatement Enclosure Details and Photos
Copyright Professor Randy T. Agee, E.ED., October 15, 2007


This is not the first enclosure I have built. But, it is the most thought out and successful enclosure to date. Before building this enclosure I spent several months doing research on noise abatement and transfer of thermal energy. Not that I really needed to, it was more of an exercise in confirming the ideas I had previously developed.

My goals were simple:

1. Cool the engine. Keep the cabinet temperature under
170 degrees F in the most severe operating situation.

2. Cool the AVR and alternator. Ideally, keep these
components under 140 degrees F.

3. Achieve a noise level equal to (or better than) the
Honda 3000 Inverter model. This would be 59dB
at 21 feet away under no to moderate loads and
62-63 dB under full load at the same distance.

4. Keep the size and weight as close as possible to the origin...
















pump designed to work on 12 VDC, but run on 6VDC. At 12 VDC gas would seep out around the float needle valve. While a system of relays and voltage reducers could make the pump safer and shut it down automatically when the engine stopped, I was still uncomfortable with the design.

Gravity feed was an option. But the tank would mount over the top of the enclosure, making access problematic. I just did not like the idea of using gasoline with an enclosure. I began to research LPG options and discovered the conversion was extremely simple, and surprisingly inexpensive. In fact, I could convert to LPG for a comparable cost of a remote electric fuel pump. LPG became a no-brainer.

Effectively getting rid of excess heat was a major consideration. Much of the heat from the genset comes from the muffler. It is a giant heat capturing device and radiator. Again, it was a no-brainer that the muffler needed to be relocated outside of the enclosure.
The next issue was the volume and path of cooling air. On the Chinese gensets there are two major cooling paths. One is into the grill around the recoil starter and across the cylinder head fins. The other was the movement of air into the alternator grill (on the end) and out the bottom of the alternator near the engine. Simply sucking or blowing air into a box would only serve to recycle lot of hot air. Brute force systems using several large fans might work, but efficiency would be really low. My research had shown that what was needed was a small enclosure that would allow evacuation of air rapidly, a directed airflow into the engine cooling side and an additional cooling intake for the alternator and AVR.

My design included a 6” diameter, 12 VDC, 300 CFM exhaust fan, a shroud over the engine intake around the recoil starter to direct air flow, and complete isolation of the air intake on the end of the alternator from hot air in the cabinet.
Just for good measure, I added a small 50 CFM fan to the end of the alternator to force cooler outside air across the AVR and alternator coils. This airflow design has proven to work extremely well keeping cabinet temperatures well within the desired maximums.

There are many methods to reduce the transfer of sound. The cheapest and perhaps most effective, especially for low frequency reduction, is a small cabinet with very thick open cell material to capture sound pressure. To meet this requirement, I selected a full 2” thick foam insulating board made by Dow Corning. It is available at most home stores in 4x8 foot sheets for less than $25.00 (one brand is pink, another brand is green). The foam board is easily cut with a common saw and really smooth edges can be accomplished on a table saw using a fine tooth blade and slow feed. Openings are cut with a fine tooth saber saw set on a low speed. Once sized, the foam board can be painted with a latex paint “as-is” or laminated. I chose to laminate mine with Filon, a 1/8” thick fiberglass board similar to the material used on the outside of many campers. It is available at home stores for less than $30 for a 4x8 foot sheet. It can be trimmed with a router using a laminate bit. Just be sure to use a latex contact adhesive. Other adhesives may dissolve the foam board.

I had previously made a new frame for the genset from surplus angle iron re-purposed from discarded bed rails. This made it easy to attach the foam panels since the surface was flat and square. If one lacks welding equipment, I am of the opinion a similar frame could be made of hardwood 2”x2” lumber.

The foam panels were attached with Velcro. I used the industrial variety. It doesn’t take much to securely hold the foam board in place and it is not affected by the heat in the box. Open gaps between foam board and angle iron faces caused by the pieces of Velcro were filled with 1/8” thick rubber gasket material used to seal camper caps to the bed of pickup trucks.

The stock front genset panel was retained. A piece of ¾” thick, Formica laminated outdoor grade plywood was cut to fit the contour of the stock panel and then covered with Filon. I used plywood here since I needed a rigid panel to mount accessories. Cutting this piece on the bandsaw was scary – it was the same saw I severed my left little finger on last May 14th. This was the first time I had used it since the accident. I did need to use spacers under the OEM genset panel to get the right offset for a flush fit to the plywood.

Both cooling fans were 12 VDC. The genset was electric start, so a relay was needed to energize the 12 volts to the fans. I had a surplus 120 VAC single pole, single throw relay in my junk box. I connected the coil of this relay to the output of the generator. When the generator started, it would pull in the relay and supply 12 VDC to the fans. If there had been no battery, I could have just direct connected the fans to the 12 VDC out of the genset.

I needed good venture vacuum to prime the engine so it would start or an electric solenoid that could push the primer on the demand regulator. US Carb does sell an electric primer solenoid as part of their RSK kit, but that was more money to spend. To get the vacuum, I had to retain the choke. So that a remote start system could be implemented, the choke needed to be electric. I borrowed a 12 VDC solenoid from an old surplus computer disk drive. The solenoid was configured to pull in the choke on start. Other solenoids such as those used on automotive door locks should work equally as well.


I found two surplus automotive gauges in my junk box. One was an automotive water temperature gauge, the other a DC voltmeter. I placed the probe for the water temperature gauge against the cylinder head fins on the engine. I now have a head temperature gauge.

As an added safety feature, I exchanged the 120 volt, 20 amp outlet for a GFCI outlet. I changed the wiring behind the control panel so that the cooling fans were before the GFCI outlet. This was done to be sure a GFCI trip would not stop cooling. I added a new circuit breaker for the inside outlet used to fed the 120 volt relay for the cooling fans.

Changing oil could be a problem with an enclosure. I ran a tube from thbe engine's oil drain plug to outside of the front panel to make this service a whole lot easier.


I had previously purchased a "hatch" from West Marine for use on my boat, and then decided not to use it. While not necessary since the top of the enclosure is removable, I felt like I should use the hatch somewhere and decided what better place than the top of the box for quick and easy access.

Were all of my objectives met? You bet they were! 58dB at 21 feet with low to moderate load. 62dB with the air conditioner compressor locked in on the camper.
This system is as quite as, if not qui...








21 foot view

view with top off

150 VAC full scale meter to replace 300 VAC full scale meter

only front panel on - sides off

bringing starter rope to front panel

added HR meter to keep track of service due intervals

generator end

engine panel showing 6" to 8" ductwork transition used as fan shroud

real-time air temp reading inside cabinet

[Old___Slow]

dandreas611 wrote:
I've been reading this forum for 18 months. Thanks to all for fantastic info, and a fun project. All the ideas I've used came from this thread.
(thanks also for the how to post photos tutorial!)

Here's how my 3500 watt electric start is looking in my old class c's
generator compartment. There's a honda v45 motorcycle fan (ebay $15) under the center of the gen floor that runs off battery power through thermal switch on cylinder head after shutdown, same fan runs through a relay (left side of compartment) sensing generators unregulated 12v and using the same while generator is on. With door closed crankcase temp is 140 to 145 F gen head temp 120 F.

Thermal switch on cylinder head is honda 1.8L 4 cyl radiator fan switch I had in my junk box. ($5 ebay $25 Rockauto) In integras and civics this turns electric radiator fan on when water temp is warm enough, on my genset it runs fan after shutdown until cyl head temp is below about 150F.

House battery under hood goes through 60 amp fuse at battery 10 gauge wire to relay above gen head controlled by batt off/on switch in RV, then through a 60 amp fuse to starter motor and a 4 slot fuse block
for fuel pump etc. Same control panel in RV has off/on/start key and 3 psi boost pump switch, and 12v transfer relay switch. Boost pump is under gen compartment floor. After ground fault interrupt outlet (gray-top left of gen comparment) I have a DPDT (double pole double throw) 12 volt coil operated 115 vac relay at the circuit breaker box as transfer switch (this switches both hot (black) and neutral (white)).

I used the tubing from the crate the generator came in to make the exhaust pipe. This probably won't last long, tubing is low grade.

The most cooling improvement came (as others ((who know better than me)) before me have said)
from an air duct pulling air from under RV (just the way I did it)
directly into fan inlet at the pull start handle.

I actually think that having the air inlet for the duct bringing air to the fan at the starter handle when located next to the opening under the center of the genset might pull enough air down and out with venturi effect to cool without the 12 volt fan I have there, yet for cooling after shutdown it seems the electric fan is needed, the cylinder head itself is about 220F while the genset is on. Too much heat after shutdown could melt the crankshaft seals.

trying to figure how to build a "genturi" exhaust up the back wall.

http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee26/dandreas611/?action=view¤t=6_3.jpg
http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee26/dandreas611/?action=view¤t=veo_0054.png
http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee26/dandreas611/?action=view¤t=veo_0059.jpg
http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee26/dandreas611/?action=view¤t=veo_0055.png
http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee26/dandreas611/?action=view¤t=veo_0058.jpg
http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee26/dandreas611/?action=view¤t=veo_0056.jpg
http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee26/dandreas611/?action=view¤t=veo_0057.jpg


Da

Prof95:

I would say all who have posted their fun projects give all praise and glory to this thread and the Professor.

Posted 10-17-07 on Page 224 Need to go there for pictures.

[Old___Slow]

Prof95:

All info' you have supplied is helpful. I trust you are not saying the we have reached a good conclusion for the need of sound abatement for our gennys. Ned in the first reader hopefully went on to the second grade. My dad drove a model T Ford and I made a flight in a Tri-motor Ford. Now others have taken a Rocket ride. All in the process of progress. My latest inspiration is a picture on my desk of a Cummins Onan P3200ie with what looks to be a modified open frame. (Costco $1600) The sound panels are beautiful. Hot air exhaust or intake is from the bottom, I do believe. The new designs for enclosures uses this idea with good success. Hopefully many others will post their own ideas and success.

Floyd

[czlight]

Hi,

I just wanted to thank everyone who posted about the Champion Generator. I Ordered mine from Cabela's for 299.00 a week 1/2 ago and it arrived last thursday. I installed the wheel kit added oil and fuel and it started the very first pull, I havent had a chance to plug it into the camper yet, but will next week. I am impressed with Ole Yellar.

[MrWizard]

try www.allectronic.com

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/MET-63/385/AC_VOLT_METER_.html

this one might fit..cost $1.75


heres another one cost $12.00
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/PMA-150V/385/150V_AC_PANEL_METER_.html

[Pirate1]

I have one of the original Pep Boys Elem 3000 generators. I haven't used it much but at some point spilled some gas on the volt meter. Now the plastic cover has clouded up. Anyone know where an inexpensive new meter or cover can be found? The elem parts folks wanted a bunch for a new meter.

[Old___Slow]

Problems in posting.

[Old___Slow]

Problems in posting.

[Old___Slow]

BFRXLT wrote:

professor95 wrote:

Old & Slow wrote:

snip.....
For the portable open frame genestS we need a PORTABLE solution. Panels that will either fold or be carried loose.

When I was much younger, I was told an Ostrich would stick his head in the sand when frightened. Apparently the Ostrich thought that if he could not hear or see what was going on around him he would be safe.

Years later, when I would be presenting something to a class, and a student would turn around and make a statement exactly like the one I had just presented, I would walk over to the student, smile, and ask if he had his head in the sand? Of course, not too many of them knew what I was talking about. But, it still got a laugh while emphasizing a point about needing to pay attention. Perhaps I need to ask the same question today?

Over year ago I posted a photo of a simple, portable "dog house" enclosure made of 1/4" fan-fold insulation board. It set-up in seconds, was assembled with common duct tape and secured with available weights like rocks, firewood, etc., was easily folded and slipped under a mattress, remained waterproof, significantly reduced sound levels in 4 different directions and allowed for cooling of the genset. At the time, several forum readers abuilt one, tried it and liked it. One even used a cardboard box as a result with good results.

I reposted this info with a photo just a few days ago. I guess it went totally unnoticed?

It works as a PORTABLE solution. Panels that will either fold or be carried loose. What more can I say?

I would also like to point out that my sound abatement work went far beyond the early experiments with the ELM3000. On 10/8/07 I published/posted a full report on a very successful sound abetment design based on extensive research of sound absorption, reflection, refraction and the movement of air currents needed to cool the generator and engine. I did this so fellow forum members could benefit from my research in designing their own enclosures. Search back to the date andy you will find the complete posting. When Brad built his enclosure after mine, he was considerate enough to reference my work and design as beneficial to his design. Thank-you, Brad, for being a true gentleman and giving credit where credit was due.

I did see this posted. This would not work for my situation. I need more complete sound abatement.

It's good progress did not stop with the first light bulb. More complete sound abatement is on the way.

[professor95]

Some of the research findings I made at the time.......
These may be helpful.


I began to conduct some much needed research on the characteristics of sound waves along with their propagation and reproduction. Not surprisingly, the best source of information was found from elements of acoustical design. Buildings, auditoriums, speaker cabinets and even boom cars all draw from the same basic principles.

In designing a new enclosure, there were four basic principles that had to be considered; reflection, absorption, frequency and amplitude.

Through measurements made with a microphone, graphic equalizer and oscilloscope it was determined that the majority of sound energy was, as expected, under 5,000 Hz.

The amplitude had previously been established through measurements with a digital sound level meter and manufacturer’s data.

Since the sound frequencies were below 5,000 Hz, a small enclosure would do a better job of canceling the sound waves. Low frequencies have a longer wave length or period than high frequencies - the smaller the cabinet, the more attenuation of low frequency sound will occur. Audiophiles depend upon large diameter speakers, cabinets and tuned reflex ports for low frequency reproduction. Conversely, small diameter speakers and cabinets do a better job of reproducing high frequencies.

Anyone who has ever hooked up a set of speakers knows that they must be equally phased to reproduce sound properly. If one speaker is out of phase, or pulling the speaker cone in while the opposite speaker is pushing the cone out, the resultant sound waves will somewhat counter each other. Reflection of sound waves would be important in an enclosure to reduce sound pressure.

Absorption of sound waves turned out to be a considerably more complex than I originally believed. While it is true that materials with an open cellular structure can do an effective job of absorbing sound, caution must be exercised in selecting the material to assure there is sufficient density to cancel the effects of sound transmissions. Simply stated, when sound waves hit the surface of some materials the molecules in the material can also move or vibrate at the same rate as the sound pressure pushing against the material. Density, or thickness, of the material is a factor for consideration.

[professor95]

BFRXLT wrote:
I did see this posted. This would not work for my situation. I need more complete sound abatement.

How about something like this?

Professor95 wrote:
Sound Abatement Enclosure Details and Photos
Copyright Professor Randy T. Agee, E.ED., October 15, 2007


This is not the first enclosure I have built. But, it is the most thought out and successful enclosure to date. Before building this enclosure I spent several months doing research on noise abatement and transfer of thermal energy. Not that I really needed to, it was more of an exercise in confirming the ideas I had previously developed.

My goals were simple:

1. Cool the engine. Keep the cabinet temperature under
170 degrees F in the most severe operating situation.

2. Cool the AVR and alternator. Ideally, keep these
components under 140 degrees F.

3. Achieve a noise level equal to (or better than) the
Honda 3000 Inverter model. This would be 59dB
at 21 feet away under no to moderate loads and
62-63 dB under full load at the same distance.

4. Keep the size and weight as close as possible to the origin...
















pump designed to work on 12 VDC, but run on 6VDC. At 12 VDC gas would seep out around the float needle valve. While a system of relays and voltage reducers could make the pump safer and shut it down automatically when the engine stopped, I was still uncomfortable with the design.

Gravity feed was an option. But the tank would mount over the top of the enclosure, making access problematic. I just did not like the idea of using gasoline with an enclosure. I began to research LPG options and discovered the conversion was extremely simple, and surprisingly inexpensive. In fact, I could convert to LPG for a comparable cost of a remote electric fuel pump. LPG became a no-brainer.

Effectively getting rid of excess heat was a major consideration. Much of the heat from the genset comes from the muffler. It is a giant heat capturing device and radiator. Again, it was a no-brainer that the muffler needed to be relocated outside of the enclosure.
The next issue was the volume and path of cooling air. On the Chinese gensets there are two major cooling paths. One is into the grill around the recoil starter and across the cylinder head fins. The other was the movement of air into the alternator grill (on the end) and out the bottom of the alternator near the engine. Simply sucking or blowing air into a box would only serve to recycle lot of hot air. Brute force systems using several large fans might work, but efficiency would be really low. My research had shown that what was needed was a small enclosure that would allow evacuation of air rapidly, a directed airflow into the engine cooling side and an additional cooling intake for the alternator and AVR.

My design included a 6” diameter, 12 VDC, 300 CFM exhaust fan, a shroud over the engine intake around the recoil starter to direct air flow, and complete isolation of the air intake on the end of the alternator from hot air in the cabinet.
Just for good measure, I added a small 50 CFM fan to the end of the alternator to force cooler outside air across the AVR and alternator coils. This airflow design has proven to work extremely well keeping cabinet temperatures well within the desired maximums.

There are many methods to reduce the transfer of sound. The cheapest and perhaps most effective, especially for low frequency reduction, is a small cabinet with very thick open cell material to capture sound pressure. To meet this requirement, I selected a full 2” thick foam insulating board made by Dow Corning. It is available at most home stores in 4x8 foot sheets for less than $25.00 (one brand is pink, another brand is green). The foam board is easily cut with a common saw and really smooth edges can be accomplished on a table saw using a fine tooth blade and slow feed. Openings are cut with a fine tooth saber saw set on a low speed. Once sized, the foam board can be painted with a latex paint “as-is” or laminated. I chose to laminate mine with Filon, a 1/8” thick fiberglass board similar to the material used on the outside of many campers. It is available at home stores for less than $30 for a 4x8 foot sheet. It can be trimmed with a router using a laminate bit. Just be sure to use a latex contact adhesive. Other adhesives may dissolve the foam board.

I had previously made a new frame for the genset from surplus angle iron re-purposed from discarded bed rails. This made it easy to attach the foam panels since the surface was flat and square. If one lacks welding equipment, I am of the opinion a similar frame could be made of hardwood 2”x2” lumber.

The foam panels were attached with Velcro. I used the industrial variety. It doesn’t take much to securely hold the foam board in place and it is not affected by the heat in the box. Open gaps between foam board and angle iron faces caused by the pieces of Velcro were filled with 1/8” thick rubber gasket material used to seal camper caps to the bed of pickup trucks.

The stock front genset panel was retained. A piece of ¾” thick, Formica laminated outdoor grade plywood was cut to fit the contour of the stock panel and then covered with Filon. I used plywood here since I needed a rigid panel to mount accessories. Cutting this piece on the bandsaw was scary – it was the same saw I severed my left little finger on last May 14th. This was the first time I had used it since the accident. I did need to use spacers under the OEM genset panel to get the right offset for a flush fit to the plywood.

Both cooling fans were 12 VDC. The genset was electric start, so a relay was needed to energize the 12 volts to the fans. I had a surplus 120 VAC single pole, single throw relay in my junk box. I connected the coil of this relay to the output of the generator. When the generator started, it would pull in the relay and supply 12 VDC to the fans. If there had been no battery, I could have just direct connected the fans to the 12 VDC out of the genset.

I needed good venture vacuum to prime the engine so it would start or an electric solenoid that could push the primer on the demand regulator. US Carb does sell an electric primer solenoid as part of their RSK kit, but that was more money to spend. To get the vacuum, I had to retain the choke. So that a remote start system could be implemented, the choke needed to be electric. I borrowed a 12 VDC solenoid from an old surplus computer disk drive. The solenoid was configured to pull in the choke on start. Other solenoids such as those used on automotive door locks should work equally as well.


I found two surplus automotive gauges in my junk box. One was an automotive water temperature gauge, the other a DC voltmeter. I placed the probe for the water temperature gauge against the cylinder head fins on the engine. I now have a head temperature gauge.

As an added safety feature, I exchanged the 120 volt, 20 amp outlet for a GFCI outlet. I changed the wiring behind the control panel so that the cooling fans were before the GFCI outlet. This was done to be sure a GFCI trip would not stop cooling. I added a new circuit breaker for the inside outlet used to fed the 120 volt relay for the cooling fans.

Changing oil could be a problem with an enclosure. I ran a tube from thbe engine's oil drain plug to outside of the front panel to make this service a whole lot easier.


I had previously purchased a "hatch" from West Marine for use on my boat, and then decided not to use it. While not necessary since the top of the enclosure is removable, I felt like I should use the hatch somewhere and decided what better place than the top of the box for quick and easy access.

Were all of my objectives met? You bet they were! 58dB at 21 feet with low to moderate load. 62dB with the air conditioner compressor locked in on the camper.
This system is as quite as, if not qui...








21 foot view

view with top off

150 VAC full scale meter to replace 300 VAC full scale meter

only front panel on - sides off

bringing starter rope to front panel

added HR meter to keep track of service due intervals

generator end

engine panel showing 6" to 8" ductwork transition used as fan shroud

real-time air temp reading inside cabinet

[BFRXLT]

professor95 wrote:

Old & Slow wrote:

snip.....
For the portable open frame genestS we need a PORTABLE solution. Panels that will either fold or be carried loose.

When I was much younger, I was told an Ostrich would stick his head in the sand when frightened. Apparently the Ostrich thought that if he could not hear or see what was going on around him he would be safe.

Years later, when I would be presenting something to a class, and a student would turn around and make a statement exactly like the one I had just presented, I would walk over to the student, smile, and ask if he had his head in the sand? Of course, not too many of them knew what I was talking about. But, it still got a laugh while emphasizing a point about needing to pay attention. Perhaps I need to ask the same question today?

Over year ago I posted a photo of a simple, portable "dog house" enclosure made of 1/4" fan-fold insulation board. It set-up in seconds, was assembled with common duct tape and secured with available weights like rocks, firewood, etc., was easily folded and slipped under a mattress, remained waterproof, significantly reduced sound levels in 4 different directions and allowed for cooling of the genset. At the time, several forum readers abuilt one, tried it and liked it. One even used a cardboard box as a result with good results.

I reposted this info with a photo just a few days ago. I guess it went totally unnoticed?

It works as a PORTABLE solution. Panels that will either fold or be carried loose. What more can I say?

I would also like to point out that my sound abatement work went far beyond the early experiments with the ELM3000. On 10/8/07 I published/posted a full report on a very successful sound abetment design based on extensive research of sound absorption, reflection, refraction and the movement of air currents needed to cool the generator and engine. I did this so fellow forum members could benefit from my research in designing their own enclosures. Search back to the date andy you will find the complete posting. When Brad built his enclosure after mine, he was considerate enough to reference my work and design as beneficial to his design. Thank-you, Brad, for being a true gentleman and giving credit where credit was due.

I did see this posted. This would not work for my situation. I need more complete sound abatement.