50 amp cheater box

[grayghost58]

I have a 50 amp 5ver someone told me about this. It has 2 30amp plugs (male) on it and a 50amp (female). So your supposed to be able to plug 1 of the 30 amp plugs into the 30 amp plug at the rv park and put a 120 adapter on the other and plug it into the 120 volt plug so long as it is not a gfi plug and be able to run both ac's on my 5ver. Of course this is at a 30 amp park where 50 amp is not available. Has anyone heard of this and if so does it work without harming anything. Do I need to run fridge and hot water on propane so there is enough power to run my ac's? We live in Oklahoma so it gets pretty hot here and are limited to where we can go because of needing to run both ac's. Any info would be appreciated

[lenr]

Interesting discussion. I two days ago put a double 30 into a 50 Y connector into my save list on a large online company while I made up my mind if this was really what I wanted to do. This device has a neutral line of 8 gauge which would get pretty smokin' warm if the two 30 legs were on the same side of the 240. There potentially wouldn't be any breaker protection up to 60 amps. I plan on evaluating our new trailer for normal amperage drawn by each major load to see how far under 30 amps each side of the 50 amp 240 feed can be run. Then before using the Y I would evaluate whether the two 30 outlets are on the same side or opposite sides of the 240 thus determining which loads can be run.

[grayghost58]

So is this something I have to have wired to my camper?

[LittleBill]

Lantley wrote:

wa8yxm wrote:

Lantley wrote:
An RVsafepower transfer switch will allow you to tap into the 20 amp outlet on a 30 amp site. It will also work on GFCI circuits.
I own one and it works great.
I have use it at several state parks. It allows me to run both A/C's on a 30 amp site without issue.
RV Safepower (modern cheater box)

And I thought 100 for the PSRV product was steep

But yes. This is the best way to do it. 100% protected and will work.

It is what I would recommend less you can get the PSRV product which far as I know is no longer made or have the skills to make one yourself.

I agree the device is not cheap, but it works. It has been a game changer for me. Prior to having the transfer switch I had given up on most state parks. I found myself chasing 50 amp sites which often meant private parks vs. state parks. Some of my favourite places were scratched from my list because they only offered 30 amp sites.
Call me wimp but I need both A/C's cranking during the summer months, otherwise my RV will struggle to remain cool if only 1 A/C unit is available.
The RV safe power switch ensures I can run both A/C's on a 30 amp site.
Fortunately it has not let me down yet. I do understand there could be a scenario where the switch will not work, but I have not been shot out at a 30 amp site yet. GFCI circuits are no problem.
Don't get me wrong I enjoy private parks and resort type places but I also enjoy state parks as well.
I generally pick best available for the location. Prior to the RV safepower my decision was based on best available with 50 amp service.
However the RV safepower has changed the game back to best available 50 amp sites are no longer the determining factor.
The RV safepower has allowed me to use my 50 amp RV at both public and private CG"s without worrying about 30 amp only situations.
It hasn't taken long for the device to pay for itself.
The difference in price between state parks and private parke can easily be $30-$50 a night. Doesn't take many nights to add up to $350.00

Don't take this the wrong way, but there is nothing special about that box, its nothing more then a dpdt switch. simply wiring a direct extension cord to the ac would do the same thing, apparently the 20 amp and 30 amp connectors are on different breakers at the places you stay, your not magically getting more power with this box.

[grayghost58]

Thanks. I'll check it out.

[Lantley]

wa8yxm wrote:

Lantley wrote:
An RVsafepower transfer switch will allow you to tap into the 20 amp outlet on a 30 amp site. It will also work on GFCI circuits.
I own one and it works great.
I have use it at several state parks. It allows me to run both A/C's on a 30 amp site without issue.
RV Safepower (modern cheater box)

And I thought 100 for the PSRV product was steep

But yes. This is the best way to do it. 100% protected and will work.

It is what I would recommend less you can get the PSRV product which far as I know is no longer made or have the skills to make one yourself.

I agree the device is not cheap, but it works. It has been a game changer for me. Prior to having the transfer switch I had given up on most state parks. I found myself chasing 50 amp sites which often meant private parks vs. state parks. Some of my favourite places were scratched from my list because they only offered 30 amp sites.
Call me wimp but I need both A/C's cranking during the summer months, otherwise my RV will struggle to remain cool if only 1 A/C unit is available.
The RV safe power switch ensures I can run both A/C's on a 30 amp site.
Fortunately it has not let me down yet. I do understand there could be a scenario where the switch will not work, but I have not been shot out at a 30 amp site yet. GFCI circuits are no problem.
Don't get me wrong I enjoy private parks and resort type places but I also enjoy state parks as well.
I generally pick best available for the location. Prior to the RV safepower my decision was based on best available with 50 amp service.
However the RV safepower has changed the game back to best available 50 amp sites are no longer the determining factor.
The RV safepower has allowed me to use my 50 amp RV at both public and private CG"s without worrying about 30 amp only situations.
It hasn't taken long for the device to pay for itself.
The difference in price between state parks and private parke can easily be $30-$50 a night. Doesn't take many nights to add up to $350.00

[wa8yxm]

Lantley wrote:
An RVsafepower transfer switch will allow you to tap into the 20 amp outlet on a 30 amp site. It will also work on GFCI circuits.
I own one and it works great.
I have use it at several state parks. It allows me to run both A/C's on a 30 amp site without issue.
RV Safepower (modern cheater box)

And I thought 100 for the PSRV product was steep

But yes. This is the best way to do it. 100% protected and will work.

It is what I would recommend less you can get the PSRV product which far as I know is no longer made or have the skills to make one yourself.

[westernrvparkow]

BillyBob Jim wrote:
At the campground I am familiar with its not going to work. It will work from the standpoint that you will power up both legs of your 50 amp system, but you're not going to have more than 30 amps.

The main feed is 30 amp, the 20 amp receptacle is tapped off of that 30 amp feed. They did not run a separate/independent 20 and 30 amp feeds to the pedestal. If they would of done that they would of simply installed a 50/30/20 pedestal and if they would of, that would not mean you can somehow dog-bone 100 amps out of it.

I bought a park that was exactly that way. Nothing at all wrong or out of code. The feeder wiring fed a 30 amp breaker that fed both the 30 amp receptacle and a 20 amp breaker. The 20 amp breaker fed the 20 amp receptacle. Draw more than 30 amps from both receptacles combined and the 30 amp breaker trips. That wiring was actually over-protected since there was a 30 amp breaker at the box and the box was wired back to the distribution panel where another 30 amp breaker protected the line. Also, since there is only one leg of power feeding both the 30 and the 20 your energy management system would see 0 volts instead of 240 volts between the two legs if you one of those cheater boxes and automatically know you are connected to 30 amp power. You would gain nothing by using one of those cheater boxes over just using the normal 30 to 50 adapter.
The park ran just fine other than 50 amp rigs often tripped the breakers for that first year. After that, we upgraded all the sites to 50 amp service.
FYI, that is a BIG job! You have to run all new underground wiring, add distribution panels, repair all the roads and sites that are crossed and then redo all the landscaping. And it has to be done when the ground is thawed and the park is closed or you lose revenue. That is a very small time window and the weather is much less than ideal. Thank the high holy it is a one and done job.

[map40]

DrewE wrote:

Wiring the 15A receptacle from the 30A feed would be up to code, to the best of my knowledge, provided there's a suitable breaker or fuse protecting the 15A socket from overcurrent.

Only if the 15 amp breaker is after a 30 amp breaker; or if they are in parallel, the cable is sized to 45 amps. Never seen either.

[DrewE]

map40 wrote:
Amazon seels an adapter like that with a 30 and a 15 male plugs, but you have the GFCI problem. A friend of mine simply took off the ground of the 15 amp so it would not trip the GFCI. Not a smart idea.
I have never found a campground wired with the 15 and the 30 on the same 30 amp line, but I have heard of people that have seen them. It is against code...

Cutting off the ground is not a good idea for many reasons, not the least of which is that it won't prevent the GFCI from tripping. You'd still have an imbalance between the hot and the neutral return currents as the neutral is still common between the two sockets.

Wiring the 15A receptacle from the 30A feed would be up to code, to the best of my knowledge, provided there's a suitable breaker or fuse protecting the 15A socket from overcurrent.

[troubledwaters]

BillyBob Jim wrote:

troubledwaters wrote:

BillyBob Jim wrote:
At the campground I am familiar with its not going to work. It will work from the standpoint that you will power up both legs of your 50 amp system, but you're not going to have more than 30 amps.

The main feed is 30 amp, the 20 amp receptacle is tapped off of that 30 amp feed. They did not run a separate/independent 20 and 30 amp feeds to the pedestal. If they would of done that they would of simply installed a 50/30/20 pedestal and if they would of, that would not mean you can somehow dog-bone 100 amps out of it.

Please let me know the name and location of this place; I want to make sure I never get close to there. The place sounds like a nightmare with duct tape and baling wire-cobbled up electrical panels and probably everything else.

Wonderful, don't get close to there. Just so happens to be a state park with everything duct taped and bailing wire tied together lol, wired all 30 amp pre 1980. I expect you only stay at brand new high falutin resort type places where everything is brand spanking new? You'll find the same situations at a lot of State and Fed facilities if you open your eyes.

For the RVnet code fetish club, you haven't a clue what, or what version, of a code was in effect when park A, park B, or park C's system was installed.

Popcorn a poppin.

No, most places won't be like that at all. Nobody I know of has "separate/independent 20 and 30 amp feeds to the pedestal". Most places will have 100 amp feeds to the pedestal, the 50 Amp, 30 Amp, and 20 Amp receptacles are all wired off the 100 amp feed with the appropriate circuit breaker.

If all you have is a 30 amp feed to the pedestal, with a both a 30 amp and 20 amp receptacle wired off that feed (reminds me of knob and tube wiring), I don't want to be there. And how many other sites are on that same 30 amp feed? You didn't even mention circuit breakers; I'm sure those must be in the pedestal however?

I hope your popcorn popper is as a the kind that you put over the stove burner, you don't have enough power to run an electric model.

Now if I could just get the name and location; it seems it would be mutually beneficial to me and you for me to have that information.

[troubledwaters]

error - double post thing again

[BillyBob_Jim]

troubledwaters wrote:

BillyBob Jim wrote:
At the campground I am familiar with its not going to work. It will work from the standpoint that you will power up both legs of your 50 amp system, but you're not going to have more than 30 amps.

The main feed is 30 amp, the 20 amp receptacle is tapped off of that 30 amp feed. They did not run a separate/independent 20 and 30 amp feeds to the pedestal. If they would of done that they would of simply installed a 50/30/20 pedestal and if they would of, that would not mean you can somehow dog-bone 100 amps out of it.

Please let me know the name and location of this place; I want to make sure I never get close to there. The place sounds like a nightmare with duct tape and baling wire-cobbled up electrical panels and probably everything else.

Wonderful, don't get close to there. Just so happens to be a state park with everything duct taped and bailing wire tied together lol, wired all 30 amp pre 1980. I expect you only stay at brand new high falutin resort type places where everything is brand spanking new? You'll find the same situations at a lot of State and Fed facilities if you open your eyes.

For the RVnet code fetish club, you haven't a clue what, or what version, of a code was in effect when park A, park B, or park C's system was installed.

Popcorn a poppin.

[Lantley]

An RVsafepower transfer switch will allow you to tap into the 20 amp outlet on a 30 amp site. It will also work on GFCI circuits.
I own one and it works great.
I have use it at several state parks. It allows me to run both A/C's on a 30 amp site without issue.
RV Safepower (modern cheater box)

[wa8yxm]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
UL, C-UL Warning: Will not operate when plugged into a GFCI circuit, and requires two separate circuits. Always check pedestal power for proper polarity prior to plugging in this adapter.

Like Old Biscuit said. it will not work if one of the outlets is a GFCI.. I do have a couple places I park where I can pull 30+30 but only a couple I've been in parks where the 30's are GFCI

I have a different way to run both A/C on a 30 site. I split one of them off as independent of the RV. no common connection. all 3 wires (Hot/Neutral and Ground) are independent of the RV. works great