A bad converter?

[Winged_One]

2011 Coachmen Brookstone, 50 amp, with a Progressive EMS-HW50C inline that I installed 6 years ago.

This last camping trip of 4 days to Ludington Michigan State Park. 30 amp service. It seemed no issues from the park. No storms.
2nd day noticed the bathroom GFCI was tripped. Maybe first time since we have owned the trailer.
3rd day tried the living room stereo/dvd player. Acted very weird. Very slow running of the DVD. Would not seek out radio stations. No sound. Figured it had gone bad.

Everything else seemed ok. Fridge ran on AC without issue. TV's worked ok.
Arrive home. Plug into 20 amp service at home, just like we have when loading or unloading for the last 6 years.
Trips the GFCI outlet in the garage (where we plug in). The garage has its own circuit breaker (switchable) in the garage that then goes to a GFCI outlet. Same everything we have always used for 6 years. Checked breaker, GFCI, extension cord, all ok and normal.

Plug into the trailer, with the Progressive operating, shows no issues on the monitor panel (E0), 124 volts, normal. When Progressive lets the power through (like it normally does after several seconds), a "clunk" is heard in the area of the Progressive and an instant trip of the GFCI in the garage.
If I bypass the Progressive (with the switch on the Progressive monitor), instant trip.
There are 2 GFCI outlets in the trailer (stock). I have disconnected both. No change.

I turned off all the trailer breakers, applied power and no fault.

I then turned on the main breaker in the trailer, no fault.

I went through all individual breakers and no faults until I turned on the breaker labeled for the "converter". Instant trip.

I know I am asking a lot, but would you say the converter might have gone bad (or loosened connections)?

Might a bad converter explain the bathroom GFCI tripping and the stereo going bad?

Thank you again for any input you can provide.

[BFL13]

The RV fridge is plugged into a receptacle outside behind its vent cover. You could unplug it so it can't be involved while you continue your GFCI fault search.

Perhaps you can by-pass the garage GFCI receptacles and try it with the bathroom's? Long extension cord to RV shore power adapter on cord

As you have been doing, it is all about eliminating suspects one at a time. GFCI receptacles themselves can start to act up. You might have been onto something when you noted the GFCI did not pop until you turned on something that drew a few amps, but did not pop with a low amp draw, and it didn't matter what you turned on that popped it.

What was that surge all about anyway? That could have been a factor.

[Winged_One]

Hi guys,

Thanks for the continued interest.

Well, not much has changed. I did put it all back together (reinstalled the converter, plugged it in, turned on the related breaker).

When I plug into the front of the house (no GFCI), everything works like it has for the last 6 years (no issues). I can run everything (well limited to 20 amps), and no issues. Converter isn't tripping anything inside the house.

One thing I have NOT done is reconnected to where I usually do in the garage. Honestly, I am afraid too. This was when it tripped the fridge (note I fixed that with the magnet trick).

I just don't understand what happened. I have been using all those GFCI plugs in the garage for 6 years with this trailer (and more years with a prior trailer). Why now?

So right now, I cannot find anything wrong. Maybe it is the house?!?

Well THANK YOU ALL for your input and advice. As usual, I seem to get gremlins that just cannot be tracked down.

[Cydog15]

wa8yxm wrote:
If you do need a converter replacement I have two suggestions

For stand alone (it seems you have one) Progressive Dynamics 9200
For "built into the power center) the 4600

When I got my RV 13 years ago It came with a PD 9180+Wizard (equal to 9200+Dongle) and I hit the web researching to find if there is any better. Still looking, not yet found one. (For Flooded wet cells. if you use different types of battteries there are better choies) when my 9180 failed last Halloween.. I got a Factory Refurb.. Since I was "passing by" more or less. I got it at the factory (Where better?) Very happy with the thing..

It does have one recurring "Failure" mode.. it's a plug in model. You can likely guess (I snag the cord and pull the plug).

I would get the Boondocker that you can now adjust above 13.8.
Nothing wrong with the PD but they are not adjustable.

[wa8yxm]

If you do need a converter replacement I have two suggestions

For stand alone (it seems you have one) Progressive Dynamics 9200
For "built into the power center) the 4600

When I got my RV 13 years ago It came with a PD 9180+Wizard (equal to 9200+Dongle) and I hit the web researching to find if there is any better. Still looking, not yet found one. (For Flooded wet cells. if you use different types of battteries there are better choies) when my 9180 failed last Halloween.. I got a Factory Refurb.. Since I was "passing by" more or less. I got it at the factory (Where better?) Very happy with the thing..

It does have one recurring "Failure" mode.. it's a plug in model. You can likely guess (I snag the cord and pull the plug).

[Cydog15]

Just call Best converter like everybody does at the end of the day and your problems go away. These guys love to steer you but you will never get it done quicker than calling Randy. It will be done in 5 minutes.

[BFL13]

I went camping and lost contact for a few days. OP, what ever happened? We all learn from each other here, so it is important to follow up. Thanks.

[ForestRiverInc]

Winged One,

Please accept our sincerest apologies for the issues and any inconveniences as a result of your concerns with your Brookstone. If this issue is still unresolved, please contact Joe Schueneman in our service department by visiting this personalized link: http://www.coachmenrv.com/DirectServiceContact.aspx?ID=636728760555705439. In order to resolve your concerns as quickly as possible, please use this link to outline your concerns and Joe Schueneman will respond with 24 hours.

Thank you,
Forest River

[wa8yxm]

Sounds like your TV has a problem since it is the Tripper.... Possible. Very possible. Screws do come loose bouncing down the highway. Many RVers have a few screws loose or so some folks tell me... I've even found a few (Phillips head type).

[BFL13]

If the GFCI trips with all circuits, it could be the RV's shore cord plug. Or it's adapter. Try a different adapter as first suspect. Or--

Doubt it is a co-incidence that the GFCI issue happened with that "power surge" event. Maybe something in the 120v side of the Rv is weakened so it works until you put any weight on it?

[Winged_One]

BFL13 wrote:
Good work on that so far. Good news your converter is ok.

Plug the fridge into another outlet via extension cord to see if that fridge outlet in the outside is guilty.

Don't know why the televisions going from standby to on trips the GFCI. Are the TVs into some sort of fancy receiver complicated thing that itself is the problem?

Can you unplug each Tv set and try it individually in other outlets and check for GFCI?

Good news is I found a simple reset for my fridge. It appears it blew because of a "power surge" (happened when I first plugged in at home). Followed instructions to fix that and it reset, and worked fine on the same non-GFCI outlet from the front of the house.

TV's are stock 6 year old Jensens that I have used off the garage GFCI for the last 6 years.

It appears just pulling any significant amperage (say above 1/2 amp) blows.

Now I could just put it all back together and run it when I need to (getting ready to go camping or coming back) on the non-GFCI house plug, but it does worry me why all of a sudden the problem.

Plus these things gnaw at me as to "wtf"?

[BFL13]

Good work on that so far. Good news your converter is ok.

Plug the fridge into another outlet via extension cord to see if that fridge outlet in the outside is guilty.

Don't know why the televisions going from standby to on trips the GFCI. Are the TVs into some sort of fancy receiver complicated thing that itself is the problem?

Can you unplug each Tv set and try it individually in other outlets and check for GFCI?

[Winged_One]

Ok, well I am now at the point I would like to see the thing burn down and get a new one.

I put all the GFCI's back together in the trailer. No issues.

I unplugged the converter. No change (still blows the GFCI in the garage).
I plugged a fan into the converter outlet (that the converter was plugged into). Outlet works fine.
I completely removed the converter. No change.

I turned off all trailer breakers. Turn on main breaker. Ok.
Turn on a single breaker for the rear of the coach. Stereo comes on ok. TV light is on. Turn on TV. Blows GFCI in garage.

Repeat turning on the front of the coach, TV in front on standby ok. Turn on that TV. Blows GFCI in garage.

I have 3 individual 20 amp breakers in the garage each to their own GFCI outlet. Changing to a different one makes no difference.

Plugged the trailer into a non GFCI outlet on the front of the house (runs to the basement). Everything works without blowing the basement breaker. I turned on, plugged in every 110 operated item in the trailer. According to the panel, I am pulling 4 amps and about 115 volts on each (2) circuit.

Well not everything. It appears in this BS, the Norcold fridge got fried as I get a LI-op error whether on AC or Gas. And I know it was working (heard the gas running) when we got home from Ludington, before I plugged in.

I am at a loss.

[wa8yxm]

Though in SOME cases they wire the Converter on the GFCI there is no reason to do that. So the converter should have NO Effect on the GFCI inside the RV. none zip. nada..

But the GFCI in the garage is a different animal.

Test procedure

Step one turn off ALL Circuit breakers inside RV
Step 2 plug in RV. you should hear the CLUNK, GFCI shoud hold.
Step 3 Plug a 120 volt Drop cord light (Trouble light) into other half of duplex outlet you plugged RV into and place the light where you can see it INSIDE the RV.

Now turn on the MAIN breakers inside the RV.. Light remains bright. GOOD

Turn on the 1st Branch if light remains bright turn on the 2nd, and 3rd and so on till light goes out. TURN that breaker off Reset the GFCI (light back on) and continue with the NEXT breaker till you have identified the breaker(s) that trip the Garage GFCI.

NOTE what they power

Good chance you have some thing like water in the patio outlet box due to a failed cauling bead. This will trip the RV's GFCI and might do the garage as well. but the "Which breaker kills it" test will find it.

[pianotuna]

Consider an upgrade to the converter.