Access lower radiator bolts 1990 E350?

[maillemaker]

Hi,

Can anyone give some insight into how to access the lower radiator bolts on a 1990 E350? They have to be accessed from the engine bay side of the radiator. There is a notch in the front bracket of the radiator to reach in and get to the bolt head, but the brake system coils are in the way on the driver side and the air pump hoses are in the way on the driver side.

I can pull the air hoses easily enough but the brake coils are problematic.

The top driver side bolt goes in through the front through the grill. I wish they had done all 4 that way!

Steve

[maillemaker]

OK, for any other intrepid souls who scour the internet years from now figuring out how to take out the radiator in a 1990 E-350, here you go.

First, leave the fan shroud in place attached to the radiator while trying to get at the screws. Otherwise, it is in the way.

The driver-side top bolt is removable through the front of the grill. The passenger-side top bolt is the same size and removable fairly easily from the engine compartment.

The lower two bolts are 9/16", and do not need to be fully removed to take out the radiator, as the radiator bracket has slots in it that sit down onto the bolt shanks. So in fact you don't want to fully remove them as on re-assembly they will provide a positive stop for the radiator to sit on.

Driver-side bolt:


Passenger-side bolt:


The trick to getting at the bolts is to use a 3", 1/4" drive extension. A normal 3/8" drive extension is too thick and it will be hard to get it through the notch in the rear of the radiator bracket to easily reach the bolt head in the front of the radiator bracket. Any longer than 3" and you will run into clearance problems with the brake coils on the driver side and the air pump hoses on the passenger side.

I actually used a small 1/4" ratchet to loosen the driver-side bolt, but I probably could have used my air ratchet. On the passenger side, I used my air ratchet.



Once you have removed the top bolts and loosened the bottom bolts, remove the bolts holding the fan shroud in place and push it back over the fan. Use caution when trying to pull the radiator up and out as the radiator fittings tend to want to snag on the shroud. Keep the bottom of the radiator pushed towards the front of the vehicle as much as possible.

When you are all done, this is what you are rewarded with:



Steve

[maillemaker]

I want to say that on ours, all four were on the engine side (vs grille) and the bottom sat in notches. Fasteners had large washers (part of the screws if I remember right) and all they needed was loosening.

That would be nice if it were the case with mine. I am going to try using some more slender 1/4" extensions and see if I can get at the bolts any easier.

Steve

[j-d]

Steve, I ought to be able to help, number of times I had the radiator out of our 1983 E350 under a Class C. I just don't remember a problem with the radiator fasteners.

I want to say that on ours, all four were on the engine side (vs grille) and the bottom sat in notches. Fasteners had large washers (part of the screws if I remember right) and all they needed was loosening. Tops had to come out. But we sold that coach in 2008 and it was probably 2-3 years before that, when I last had radiator out.

Bigger problem on ours, was the Alternator. The upper bolt, the one it pivoted on when belt being adjusted by loosening the lower one, was too long to remove without hitting the radiator. A.I.R. Pump was on a common bracket to the Alternator. What I learned to do: Take alternator bolt loose (out of the block) then remove the bolt(s? again I don't remember) from the common bracket. Put a long drywall screw (say 3") through the upper common bracket hole. That screw held the assembly up but allowed it to swing to the side. Bolt would then come out and could remove alternator without removing or damaging the radiator.