Add heatstrip n hardstart to Duotherm BriskAir conditioner?

[DiskDoctr]

Considering adding the SUPCO SPP6E and Dometic Brisk Air Conditioner Ducted Heat Strip to our new to us camper with a Dometic Duo-therm Brisk 13,500 BTU Air Conditioner, Model 57915

Questions I have.

1. Any problem with SPP6E version hard start vs SPP6? Benefits?

2. Is the 3105164.002 part the correct heat strip for my model?

3. Has anyone used an extra wall switch near the thermostat (I changed to digital non-programmable heat/cool thermostat) to switch between electric heat strip and propane furnace?

3a. If so, how do I get the Brisk Air system to fire up the heat strip and fan (currently wired for HIGH speed only)? I can work out a "special" DIY control if necessary, but I'd rather just duplicate someone else's simple solution- if there is one 😉

I'm not yet familiar with the internal wiring of the A/C and control unit. Because of the plug in and such that looks like it comes with the kit, I'm guessing there is some sort of designed control method?

Our hybrid is non-ducted and has a simple on/off rotary switch with a Heat setting (no thermostat).

I want to be sure this "new setup" works with the thermostat and retains the designed protections and such to not overheat and melt down the roof :E

Someone please tell me there is a good mod writeup for this!

Thanks! 🙂

[DiskDoctr]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

I added 2 additional shore power cords. One is 20 and the other is 15 amps.

Smart!

pianotuna wrote:
I have replaced nearly all the OEM outlets with much better ones.

Very smart!

[pianotuna]

Hi,

I added 2 additional shore power cords. One is 20 and the other is 15 amps. I am able to heat 100% electrically but I do need 45 amps during the worst of the winter.

In summer time I use one of the extra shore power cords to power the electric water heater.

Before I had a hybrid inverter/charger I'd use one to power the converter and then use double conversion to power the RV. That allowed me to use 23 amps instead of just 15 without tripping the shore power breaker. That was quite useful when I did not have access to the shore power breaker panel.

My favorite heaters are oil filled.

I have replaced nearly all the OEM outlets with much better ones.

[DiskDoctr]

CA Traveler wrote:
What is the heat strip wattage? Plus additional 2.5A for the fan.

Have you considered several small ceramic heaters? Very quiet, 1500W, with thermostat, flexible and can be placed anywhere and very small fan draw.

I believe pianotuna is right about them being 1500 watt.

We've talked about the simplicity of ceramic cube heaters and ability to put them in the bedrooms and adjust individually. Downside is storage and moreso the danger of getting things too close while running.

We looked at fireplaces, though the choices are "slim" and sometimes cheesy in this size. We only have 24" x 18.5" x about 6 inches max depth. Nice ones are pricey. It would be nice but only put heat in the one main area.

The heat strip was 'helpful' in our hybrid. Although larger, our TT is better insulated than the canvas, so might be close or only slightly less. I have no problem burning propane if needed, but 120V electric heat can help dry out the air, instead of add humidity as the propane would. It would "always be with us" for those surprise cold mornings or cold rains. Cheap around $50.

We do have a Wave-6 catalytic propane heater that we haven't moved the quick connect from the hybrid over yet. It also has the danger of items being close, though we have a lot more open space in the middle of the camper now.

We'll likely end up with the heat strip, catalytic heater taken when we expect cold weather and no electricity, and a small cube or two for bedrooms, for which I may add a dedicated shelf and plug...which can run to a separate circuit that can be split out to 20 amp cord or house 30 amp shared.

I might even upgrade the entrance to 50 amps. Since I removed the old converter/charger from the bottom of the distribution panel, I might add a little 120v panel there that would run off 2nd leg of 50 amps, or switch to feed from existing panel.

Maybe use another ATS that uses the 50 amp 2nd leg when available but switches over to the stock panel when it isn't. Hmm...

We had even looked at the cube heaters with a little LED fireplace flame on the front, but the reviews weren't very good for them.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

Mine were both 1500 watts. If I allow the fan to run constantly it produces a lot of white noise to mask unwanted sound.

CA Traveler wrote:
What is the heat strip wattage? Plus additional 2.5A for the fan.

[CA_Traveler]

What is the heat strip wattage? Plus additional 2.5A for the fan.

Have you considered several small ceramic heaters? Very quiet, 1500W, with thermostat, flexible and can be placed anywhere and very small fan draw.

We carry 3 ceramic heaters and they are always our first choice for heat. Easy to manage on 30A with high/low settings.

I added an independent 20A circuit that plugs into a rig storage plug or an extension cord to a 20A pedestal plug when available with a 30A plug. So 30A+20A available.

We have used ceramic heaters for 40 years in boats and RVs.

[SoundGuy]

DiskDoctr wrote:
My unit is the Brisk "one" not the II

Don't know how much different it might be?

The original Dometic BriskAir #57915 is no longer available and was replaced by the Brisk II B57915. Specs for yours are here ... LRA varies somewhat depending on configuration but is rated @ 50 - 59 amps.

[DiskDoctr]

SoundGuy wrote:

DiskDoctr wrote:
For the locked rotor amps, I see 12.1amps + 2.5amps in the chart specs. Do you have a starting vs running amps for this model?

Clearly you're not understanding LRA as for your Brisk II is rated @ 68 amps. Those ratings you're referring to are maximum running amps.

Thanks for the clarification.

My unit is the Brisk "one" not the II

Edit to add pic:

Don't know how much different it might be?

[DiskDoctr]

j-d wrote:
Here's SPP6e on Amazon at a decent price.

I ordered one from your link, thanks :C

[j-d]

DiskDoctr wrote:
I read an old post (2012?) about this, but if that is *still* the recommendation from Chris, that's good enough for me, thanks!

Chris has got to be busy with summer and the holiday, but hopefully he'll drop by and add his latest.
It's odd, but it seems Coleman/RVP adds start kits on many of their units, but Dometic/DuoTherm doesn't.
Here's SPP6e on Amazon at a decent price.

[SoundGuy]

DiskDoctr wrote:
For the locked rotor amps, I see 12.1amps + 2.5amps in the chart specs. Do you have a starting vs running amps for this model?

Clearly you're not understanding LRA as for your Brisk II is rated @ 68 amps. Those ratings you're referring to are maximum running amps.

[DiskDoctr]

Specs on the Brisk Air. My model is the middle one in the chart



Although the MicroAir might be better, if the SPP6E is going to be sufficient, that's all I need for now.

At $50, it's not a lot of pain if we have to 'upgrade' it to Micro air later. $300 is a steep price. I can almost replace the top unit for that price, LOL.

For the locked rotor amps, I see 12.1amps + 2.5amps in the chart specs. Do you have a starting vs running amps for this model?

When the generator shut down from being out of fuel, the inverter overloaded- I think from a running A/C that lost power and was fully locked. I may have to get some kind of lockout relay to prevent the A/C from trying to run if something happens and it switches over to inverter power in the future.

As mentioned by another member, the inverter should have run the A/C < 15amps, though I don't think the batteries would have been very happy about it, LOL.

[SoundGuy]

An SPP6 will work fine but now that the Micro-Air Easy Start soft starter kit is available that will ease A/C current start up draw FAR more than any hard start cap I'd invest in the the Easy Start. Pics of an SPP6 installed several years ago on my own Dometic Brisk II start here.

[marcsbigfoot20b]

I have the same AC. Added the suppco and the heat strip. Since then ditched the start caps and went microair 364.
The heat strip was plug and play.

Locked rotor amps on this unit is high.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

I've seen just two roof air conditioners both had wiring inside for a heat strip. One was ducted, the other was not.