Considering adding the SUPCO SPP6E and Dometic Brisk Air Conditioner Ducted Heat Strip to our new to us camper with a Dometic Duo-therm Brisk 13,500 BTU Air Conditioner, Model 57915Questions I have.1. Any problem with SPP6E version hard start vs SPP6? Benefits?2. Is the 3105164.002 part the correct heat strip for my model?3. Has anyone used an extra wall switch near the thermostat (I changed to digital non-programmable heat/cool thermostat) to switch between electric heat strip and propane furnace?3a. If so, how do I get the Brisk Air system to fire up the heat strip and fan (currently wired for HIGH speed only)? I can work out a "special" DIY control if necessary, but I'd rather just duplicate someone else's simple solution- if there is one ;)I'm not yet familiar with the internal wiring of the A/C and control unit. Because of the plug in and such that looks like it comes with the kit, I'm guessing there is some sort of designed control method?Our hybrid is non-ducted and has a simple on/off rotary switch with a Heat setting (no thermostat).I want to be sure this "new setup" works with the thermostat and retains the designed protections and such to not overheat and melt down the roof :ESomeone please tell me there is a good mod writeup for this!Thanks! :)

I can only help with Item 1. SPP6e is the one that one of our resident RV techs recommends, over the SPP6. It's interesting that SUPCO itself, recommends SPP6. They claim the PTCR in SPP6 gives a generator more time to ramp up to the A/C load, than the Electronic Potential Relay in SPP6e does. Still, I'd go with experience and install SPP6e. Our Coleman Mach has a hard start with a Potential Relay, and I carry an SPP6e as a spare. But I've never tried it.

Hi,Mine is ducted with a wall thermostat. I wanted to be able to run the heat strip and the furnace at the same time, so I added an extra thermostat for the propane furnace. It works well.DiskDoctr wrote: 3. Has anyone used an extra wall switch near the thermostat (I changed to digital non-programmable heat/cool thermostat) to switch between electric heat strip and propane furnace?3a. If so, how do I get the Brisk Air system to fire up the heat strip and fan (currently wired for HIGH speed only)? I can work out a "special" DIY control if necessary, but I'd rather just duplicate someone else's simple solution- if there is one ;) (no thermostat).I want to be sure this "new setup" works with the thermostat and retains the designed protections and such to not overheat and melt down the roof :ESomeone please tell me there is a good mod writeup for this!Thanks! :)

j-d wrote:I can only help with Item 1. SPP6e is the one that one of our resident RV techs recommends, over the SPP6. It's interesting that SUPCO itself, recommends SPP6. They claim the PTCR in SPP6 gives a generator more time to ramp up to the A/C load, than the Electronic Potential Relay in SPP6e does. Still, I'd go with experience and install SPP6e. Our Coleman Mach has a hard start with a Potential Relay, and I carry an SPP6e as a spare. But I've never tried it.I read an old post (2012?) about this, but if that is *still* the recommendation from Chris, that's good enough for me, thanks!

pianotuna wrote:Hi,Mine is ducted with a wall thermostat. I wanted to be able to run the heat strip and the furnace at the same time, so I added an extra thermostat for the propane furnace. It works well.Thanks.Okay, so the Brisk Air has the controls already built in for the heat strip and control?Which wires does it use? This is the mod I did, except for a slightly different thermostat, not programmable: http://www.modmyrv.com/2012/01/03/mod-100-honeywell-digital-thermostat/printThis is part of the info I don't know...does the controller in the Brisk Air already have the heat controls?Sorry for all the questions, I want to get this right ;)

Hi,I've seen just two roof air conditioners both had wiring inside for a heat strip. One was ducted, the other was not.

Add heatstrip n hardstart to Duotherm BriskAir conditioner?

j-d
Explorer II
Jul 01, 2017
I can only help with Item 1. SPP6e is the one that one of our resident RV techs recommends, over the SPP6. It's interesting that SUPCO itself, recommends SPP6. They claim the PTCR in SPP6 gives a generator more time to ramp up to the A/C load, than the Electronic Potential Relay in SPP6e does. Still, I'd go with experience and install SPP6e. Our Coleman Mach has a hard start with a Potential Relay, and I carry an SPP6e as a spare. But I've never tried it.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Jul 01, 2017
Hi,

Mine is ducted with a wall thermostat. I wanted to be able to run the heat strip and the furnace at the same time, so I added an extra thermostat for the propane furnace. It works well.

DiskDoctr wrote:

3. Has anyone used an extra wall switch near the thermostat (I changed to digital non-programmable heat/cool thermostat) to switch between electric heat strip and propane furnace?

3a. If so, how do I get the Brisk Air system to fire up the heat strip and fan (currently wired for HIGH speed only)? I can work out a "special" DIY control if necessary, but I'd rather just duplicate someone else's simple solution- if there is one ;) (no thermostat).

I want to be sure this "new setup" works with the thermostat and retains the designed protections and such to not overheat and melt down the roof :E

Someone please tell me there is a good mod writeup for this!

Thanks! :)
DiskDoctr
Explorer
Jul 01, 2017
j-d wrote:
I can only help with Item 1. SPP6e is the one that one of our resident RV techs recommends, over the SPP6. It's interesting that SUPCO itself, recommends SPP6. They claim the PTCR in SPP6 gives a generator more time to ramp up to the A/C load, than the Electronic Potential Relay in SPP6e does. Still, I'd go with experience and install SPP6e. Our Coleman Mach has a hard start with a Potential Relay, and I carry an SPP6e as a spare. But I've never tried it.

I read an old post (2012?) about this, but if that is *still* the recommendation from Chris, that's good enough for me, thanks!
DiskDoctr
Explorer
Jul 01, 2017
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Mine is ducted with a wall thermostat. I wanted to be able to run the heat strip and the furnace at the same time, so I added an extra thermostat for the propane furnace. It works well.

Thanks.

Okay, so the Brisk Air has the controls already built in for the heat strip and control?

Which wires does it use?

This is the mod I did, except for a slightly different thermostat, not programmable: http://www.modmyrv.com/2012/01/03/mod-100-honeywell-digital-thermostat/print

This is part of the info I don't know...does the controller in the Brisk Air already have the heat controls?

Sorry for all the questions, I want to get this right ;)
pianotuna
Nomad III
Jul 01, 2017
Hi,

I've seen just two roof air conditioners both had wiring inside for a heat strip. One was ducted, the other was not.
marcsbigfoot20b
Explorer
Jul 01, 2017
I have the same AC. Added the suppco and the heat strip. Since then ditched the start caps and went microair 364.
The heat strip was plug and play.

Locked rotor amps on this unit is high.
SoundGuy
Explorer
Jul 01, 2017
An SPP6 will work fine but now that the Micro-Air Easy Start soft starter kit is available that will ease A/C current start up draw FAR more than any hard start cap I'd invest in the the Easy Start. Pics of an SPP6 installed several years ago on my own Dometic Brisk II start here.
DiskDoctr
Explorer
Jul 01, 2017
Specs on the Brisk Air. My model is the middle one in the chart

Although the MicroAir might be better, if the SPP6E is going to be sufficient, that's all I need for now.

At $50, it's not a lot of pain if we have to 'upgrade' it to Micro air later. $300 is a steep price. I can almost replace the top unit for that price, LOL.

For the locked rotor amps, I see 12.1amps + 2.5amps in the chart specs. Do you have a starting vs running amps for this model?

When the generator shut down from being out of fuel, the inverter overloaded- I think from a running A/C that lost power and was fully locked. I may have to get some kind of lockout relay to prevent the A/C from trying to run if something happens and it switches over to inverter power in the future.

As mentioned by another member, the inverter should have run the A/C < 15amps, though I don't think the batteries would have been very happy about it, LOL.
SoundGuy
Explorer
Jul 01, 2017
DiskDoctr wrote:
For the locked rotor amps, I see 12.1amps + 2.5amps in the chart specs. Do you have a starting vs running amps for this model?

Clearly you're not understanding LRA as for your Brisk II is rated @ 68 amps. Those ratings you're referring to are maximum running amps.
j-d
Explorer II
Jul 01, 2017
DiskDoctr wrote:
I read an old post (2012?) about this, but if that is *still* the recommendation from Chris, that's good enough for me, thanks!

Chris has got to be busy with summer and the holiday, but hopefully he'll drop by and add his latest.
It's odd, but it seems Coleman/RVP adds start kits on many of their units, but Dometic/DuoTherm doesn't.
Here's SPP6e on Amazon at a decent price.