Adding a portable panel to roof mounted panel

[hammick]

I have a 160w Go Power panel (specs below) on the roof of my toyhauler fed to a Blue Sky Sun Charger 30 PWM CC. 208ah battery bank (two Interstate GC2 in series). Built in Onan 4000W generator. No large inverter and no plans to add one (just a small 750w for running TV).

Looking for good advice on adding a panel on the ground that I can point East in the morning and West in the afternoon. I don't want to spend the fortune Go Power wants for their portable kits.

Most of our camping is boondocking. I would describe us as light energy users. All lights are led. The portable unit would be nice so we could boondock at campfire rings under the trees.

Assuming we would wire Parallel. Not sure about diodes.

Thanks for any advice!



Solar cell type Monocrystalline
Output power
160 W
Rated current
9.14 A
Rated DC voltage
17.5 V
Open-circuit voltage 21.0
Module efficiency 17.8%
Connectivity MC4 connectors
Frame type Silver anodized aluminum frame
Certifications CE
Dimensions 58.3 x 26.5 x 1.38 in / 1482 x 674 x 35 mm
Weight
24.5 lbs / 11 kg
Warranty
25 years (module) / 5 years (controller)

[Padlin]

hammick wrote:

That's a great deal. I think I'll get this one.

Just so you know, this suitcase comes with what looks like 20' of 12 gauge stranded cable, we have some 10 sitting around we're going to use instead. If I read the tables correctly the 12 should be okay for 20'. 10 will drive 30'. Will be moving the controller to my brothers trailer as I don't need one.

Controller

At least this is the one on ours.

[Almot]

Sounds like with Bogart CC one has no choice but to buy Trimetric monitor too.

PS: now I understand the OP question about "Bogart CC without the Trimetric". My CC is not by Bogart.

[hammick]

Padlin wrote:
Back on the original posts question. Just went in with my brother and bought a 160w suitcase from Solarblvd. Planning to double up on the array inputs on the SC-2030, if there is room. Might use something like a power pole connectors and leave pigtails off the input. But then I can get to mine.

Manufacturer: Solar Cynergy
Model Name: 160W Foldable
Max Power: 160W
Open Circuit Voltage (Voc): 21.0V
Short Circuit Current (Isc): 9.4A
Maximum Power Voltage (Vmp): 17.0V
Maximum Power Current (Imp): 10A

That's a great deal. I think I'll get this one.

[Padlin]

hammick wrote:

Almot tell us more about the Bogart CC without the Trimetric. I thought you had to have the Trimetric to do any adjustment.

From the SC-2030 manual.

4.1.2 Minimal configuration—Standalone. Without the TM-2030, the SC-2030 Solar Charge Controller can
perform only basic charge regulation. There are two jumper selected parameters located on the SC-2030 that are then
used to regulate the charging: The system voltage can be set to 12 or 24V. The battery type can be designated "AGM" or
"liquid electrolyte." These determine the charging only when the TM-2030 is not connected—otherwise they are
ignored. In this case, there is an "absorb" stage set to 14.6 or 29.2 volts (for 12 or 24V liquid electrolyte systems) or
14.3 or 28.6 (for AGM systems) which runs for two hours, followed by a float stage of 13.2 or 26.4 volts.

As far as the LED display being too bright, if you leave it on B2 you only have a single led lit. I can't see it from bed so it doesn't bother me one way or the other.

The only issue I have, and I haven't asked Ralph about it yet, is that I've seen it go as high as 16v during Finish Absorb" while being set for a 15.5v max. I'll need to get more complete info and give him a call.

The only feature I wish I had that I don't is the ability to force an equalize, mine does not have that but the newer ones do. Something else to ask Ralph about.

On edit:
Back on the original posts question. Just went in with my brother and bought a 160w suitcase from Solarblvd. Planning to double up on the array inputs on the SC-2030, if there is room. Might use something like a power pole connectors and leave pigtails off the input. But then I can get to mine.

Manufacturer: Solar Cynergy
Model Name: 160W Foldable
Max Power: 160W
Open Circuit Voltage (Voc): 21.0V
Short Circuit Current (Isc): 9.4A
Maximum Power Voltage (Vmp): 17.0V
Maximum Power Current (Imp): 10A

[Almot]

hammick wrote:
Now you guys have me thinking about re-wiring the entire system with one of these:

http://www.amsolar.com/home/amr/page_34_16/refrigerator_vent_c-box.html

You only have one panel on the roof.

If you add another 12V panel on the roof, then yes, you "might" need a rooftop junction box because you "might" need to transition from #10 to #6.

Controller needs to be close to batteries anyway.

[Almot]

hammick wrote:

I thought you had to have the Trimetric to do any adjustment.

Nope. If CC itself allows adjustments of charging setpoints like timer, end-current etc, then you adjust it directly on CC. Normally, you set it as per battery manufacturer, and can further tweak if you "think", for example, that longer Abs or higher Float would positively affect the bottom line.

Trimetric monitor - like any monitor - is monitoring in-out flow at the battery. It tells you Amps and AH in/out. From what I understand, it can also "control" the CC if CC is by the same Bogart company, adding features that this CC on its own is incapable of.

[grizzzman]

hammick wrote:
Now you guys have me thinking about re-wiring the entire system with one of these:

http://www.amsolar.com/home/amr/page_34_16/refrigerator_vent_c-box.html

I could mount the Bogart CC behind the fridge and then run about 17' of 6ga wire to the batteries. Better yet I could steal the 6ga from my converter for the CC and then upgrade my converter with 4ga. It might actually go into bulk mode then.

A wise choice. And you are correct the SC3020 without the TM3020 becomes a run of the mill controller.

[Almot]

grizzzman wrote:
So your controller has a shunt at the battery so it can tell exactly what is going into the battery compared to what is bei g used by the coach? If not then its a " best guess"

There is no shunt and no guessing. Nothing is going into the battery by the end of the day, it's full. Controller output drops to zero or to N amps drawn by LP sensor and fridge. No need to monitor what's going out (after sunset) either, because it's just me in the trailer, there are no surprises. I know my energy usage, in the morning the battery will be at 70-90% no matter what I do.

[hammick]

Now you guys have me thinking about re-wiring the entire system with one of these:

http://www.amsolar.com/home/amr/page_34_16/refrigerator_vent_c-box.html

I could mount the Bogart CC behind the fridge and then run about 17' of 6ga wire to the batteries. Better yet I could steal the 6ga from my converter for the CC and then upgrade my converter with 4ga. It might actually go into bulk mode then.

[hammick]

Almot wrote:
I know one, and own it. Infinitely adjustable - timer based Absorption, current based, you name it. Without assistance of Trimetric. The only feature that I could possibly use in Trimetric, would be its been-counting function 😉 - providing theoretical SOC based on AH in/out. Have figured out that, given the location, solar size and my energy use, I will have batteries full every evening anyway, so couldn't justify buying such a nice machine as Trimetric when there isn't much need.

So far so good. Not a solution for everybody, but then, solar isn't for everybody either. Wouldn't want bright Trimetric display in my room, they at Bogart should do something about it.

Almot tell us more about the Bogart CC without the Trimetric. I thought you had to have the Trimetric to do any adjustment.

[grizzzman]

Almot wrote:

grizzzman wrote:
How many solar charge controllers do you know that can run a bulk charge of 14.6 and when adsorb hits 3%of C20 it clamps the amps and goes into a finish absorb and allows volts rise to say 15.3 then holds it fom 0 to 4 hours? (User adjustable)
Or stop charging at a set amps? ...

I know one, and own it. Infinitely adjustable - timer based Absorption, current based, you name it. Without assistance of Trimetric. The only feature that I could possibly use in Trimetric, would be its been-counting function 😉 - providing theoretical SOC based on AH in/out. Have figured out that, given the location, solar size and my energy use, I will have batteries full every evening anyway, so couldn't justify buying such a nice machine as Trimetric when there isn't much need.

So far so good. Not a solution for everybody, but then, solar isn't for everybody either. Wouldn't want bright Trimetric display in my room, they at Bogart should do something about it.








Yes, I wouldn't put a 30A controller in a sealed box. Maybe doable with smaller controllers and/or in climates not awfully hot and sunny.

So your controller has a shunt at the battery so it can tell exactly what is going into the battery compared to what is bei g used by the coach? If not then its a " best guess"

[Almot]

grizzzman wrote:
How many solar charge controllers do you know that can run a bulk charge of 14.6 and when adsorb hits 3%of C20 it clamps the amps and goes into a finish absorb and allows volts rise to say 15.3 then holds it fom 0 to 4 hours? (User adjustable)
Or stop charging at a set amps? ...

I know one, and own it. Infinitely adjustable - timer based Absorption, current based, you name it. Without assistance of Trimetric. The only feature that I could possibly use in Trimetric, would be its been-counting function 😉 - providing theoretical SOC based on AH in/out. Have figured out that, given the location, solar size and my energy use, I will have batteries full every evening anyway, so couldn't justify buying such a nice machine as Trimetric when there isn't much need.

So far so good. Not a solution for everybody, but then, solar isn't for everybody either. Wouldn't want bright Trimetric display in my room, they at Bogart should do something about it.

Yes, I wouldn't put a 30A controller in a sealed box. Maybe doable with smaller controllers and/or in climates not awfully hot and sunny.

[grizzzman]

I suggest the trimetric system. That being said i would NOT put any charge controller in a sealed box. All charge controllers produce heat that needs to escape . The SC3020 with the TM3020 has voltage compensation that would help your situation, well some anyways. Ralph the founder and owner of Bogart engineering lives solar and believes that the battery manufacturers know how there batteries need to be charged correctly and set his up that way. It is VERY adjustable for the advanced user. How many solar charge controllers do you know that can run a bulk charge of 14.6 and when adsorb hits 3%of C20 it clamps the amps and goes into a finish absorb and allows volts rise to say 15.3 then holds it fom 0 to 4 hours? (User adjustable)
Or stop charging at a set amps? (Think AGM type batteries) or overcharge batteries by say 15% as per manufacturer?

And yes i own one........care to guess why? 🙂

[Almot]

BFL13 wrote:
Yank your solar controller from where it is, and splice the array and battery wires together there. Now go to the battery bank and find the solar wires that go onto the battery bank.

Now insert your original controller by using the previous battery wires as the array side new wires to the controller and by adding new wires to be the controller -to- battery wires. Ta Da !

Translation: relocate controller closer to batteries :)...

I would also replace the controller with a model that allows remote display.