Advice on new RV battery maintenance.
Here is the equipment in the stairs of our new RV. The batteries are really corroded but they seem to be holding a charge. I’’d like some expert advice. Should I charge with the negative and positiv...
Forum Discussion
FWC wrote:
Just an FYI, orthophospheric acid is exactly the same thing as phosphoric acid which is the main ingredient in most 'rust converters' which form an iron phosphate layer, aka 'Parkerizing'.
I DID mention that, however, phosphoric acid in Ospho is "enhanced" with some other ingredients that are not present in other "rust converters".
As I mentioned, Rust-Oleum USED to sell just plain "rust converter" all by it's self, it DID work OK.
However, that standalone version was discontinued quite a few yrs ago and they came out with a combination "rust converter/primer/paint". That combination version is not as effective, bordering on barely works and worst yet, it comes out of the can flat black already..
You don't really know if the combination version is even working..
Far better to SEE the conversion process alone, it can take 24 hrs or more depending on temps and humidity for the process to finish.. Once the rust has been converted it is a simple mater of priming and finish paints.
Keep in mind the OP mentioned using Navel jelly to convert the rust, it is not the correct product if you want the job done right the first time.
But for the OPs battery hold downs, if you don't wish to spend the money on Ospho, then by new generic hold downs and hardware and discard the old ones.
Found HERE for $14 each and you get all new hardware.
You can also get plastic hold downs if you dig around.
I would however recommend if you do buy new steel hold downs, treat them with at least two coats of Harbor Freight bedliner.. That stuff is a tough rubberized paint that should hold up well to acid fumes.
