Old-Biscuit wrote:
You stated "The wiring from the t-stat to the unit is brand new"
You pulled new wire?
Then you have a scape on the insulation that intermittently touches and grounds/shorts.
Blower shutting down at same time burner shuts off is caused by bad/incorrect wiring or faulty relay.
Other than that....I have no idea.
It makes sense, but I know it's not scraped, it was a straight free run with well insulated wire.
dougrainer wrote:
This is a GOOD example of what happens when someone CHANGES a LOT of parts with NON OEM parts.
Can't get fenwall DSI boards anymore, that's the only thing that's not OEM.
dougrainer wrote:
That said, the FIRST place to look is to replace the Time delay (fan relay) on the Furnace. THAT is the gateway to the fan motor. From your post, it seems you have 2 controls now for the fan motor----The Dino board and the original fan relay which should have been removed when you install a upgraded Fan control module board. I don't understand WHY you left the Fan relay in place when you went to the Dino board.
Dinosaur doesn't suggest taking out the time delay relay (http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Instructions/Fan50PP_inst.pdf)
Should they? It seems to me that you would still want the relay there so that the power going to the blower (3 amps) isn't running through the thermostat.
dougrainer wrote:
Also, there is no reason to have to blow out any perceived residual LP in the chamber. The purpose of a sail switch and the delay of 20 to 30 seconds before ignition is to purge the chamber. Doug
Yeah, I realize it makes no sense, it just seems that whenever I do that (I initially did it to check the spark gap), it works immediately afterwards.
HiTech wrote:
What's the 12v system voltage when this is happening? Maybe low? What is the 12v system voltage when it is working fine?
Good all around
beergardens wrote:
This is my thought too. Suppose your ignitor tip is burned down somewhat and the gap is now too large for the spark to jump across consistently.
The gap is perfectly within spec.
