Atwood hot water heater -- Too darn hot

OP here. I don't have any pressure balancing anti scald shower valve in my system. It is not that model. I just ordered the adjustable disc type thermostat. I just wanted to see if any one had any experience with them and if they worked. No little kids to protect from scalding. Just didn't want to see the plastic plumbing melt any where.
Thanks for all who replied.

dougrainer wrote:

mchero wrote:
Whats the model of the OP's water heater?

GOOD question. To the OP---- If your model has XT in the model number, then ALL the previous posts are null and void. XT stands for a Mixing Valve Atwood. There is no reason to install a Adjustable Tstat. Also, the Standard Atwood Tstat will NOT fit a XT model and the XT model tstat will not fit the standard Atwood. Doug

This is the plumbing diagram for an ‘03 Winnebago Mini WF324V. It doesn’t appear to be an XT model water heater.



:):)

I am quite surprised this thread hasn't been locked. The OP's question is quite legit and his concern stems largely from his concern for his children getting scalded.

Navy showers, dribbling shower heads, yada yada, are all good things to know, but the OP is trying to prevent a scalding of a child. The thermal mixing valve is a very good idea, I installed one on my shop sink for my eyewash that swings over the sink. Its not OSHA approved but its my shop, not a commercial establishment, It works very well at maintaining temperature.

The dribbling usually allows for enough flow to keep the temp stabilized, possibly install another shower head. Lots of people like the Ozygenics RV version. I installed one in my motorhome used it one trip and removed it. I went back to a standard Delta shower head with the shut off/dribble.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007CM2UR0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are good comments about the scaling of the tank, I was not aware the Atwood tanks would do this, but it makes sense, I will have to read up on the procedure.

The problem could be something as simple as a defective thermostat that is failing too hot, but descaling and inspecting the installation would be a good place to start.

This has turned into a rather contentious discussion, which should not be.

I hope the OP has gained some ideas he can use to resolve the issue.

Charles

mchero wrote:
Whats the model of the OP's water heater?

GOOD question. To the OP---- If your model has XT in the model number, then ALL the previous posts are null and void. XT stands for a Mixing Valve Atwood. There is no reason to install a Adjustable Tstat. Also, the Standard Atwood Tstat will NOT fit a XT model and the XT model tstat will not fit the standard Atwood. Doug

Whats the model of the OP's water heater?

happy2rv wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

1. I always wonder where people think there is a "code" or "Legal Limit" for things. THERE IS NO LEGAL TEMP LIMIT FOR WATER HEATERS. There is a 125 psi PRESSURE limit in most codes for water heaters.
2. The REASON for 130/140 Auto set Tstats on 12 volt DSI RV water heaters is simple. To get the MAXIMUM amount of hot water(mixing cold with hot) they use the 130/140 auto set Tstats.
3. There are RV water heaters that have a 160 degree tstat and that model has a auto-mixing valve on the exit on the back of the water heater that drops the temp to about 120. BUT, it is adjustable and you can fiddle with the adjustment to get hotter or colder output water.
4. Pilot Controlled RV water heaters do have an adjustable Tstat.
5. The BEST solution for the OP is to buy the aftermarket Adjustable Tstat kit. Doug

https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-93105-Adjustable-Electronic-Thermostat/dp/B001BZ36HM

I tend to shy away from absolutes. There are laws in some states and local areas. For instance the state of washington. According to inspectopedia, a number of states have adopted codes with a 120 degree maximum. I believe some locations, especially other countries, have minimum temperature regulations to prevent bacteria and legionnaire's disease.
I know there will be another set of people who want to argue over whether these apply to RVs. Personally, I don't think most of us are really concerned about "regulations".

I'm also hesitant to make blanket statements about what is "BEST" because everyone's situation is different. BEST for you is what works for you and there are many factors that go into deciding what's best. For many, as some have suggested, "BEST" is to do nothing and mix more cold water with the hot. It's certainly the cheapest and requires no physical changes. But there are obvious drawbacks of potential scalding hazard and not being able to keep regulated temperatures. Obviously, I think the OP was aware that was an option and was looking for a "better" solution for his purposes.

An adjustable thermostat is cheaper than a mixing valve and doesn't require plumbing changes, but it does have potential downsides. The two biggest are less hot water and the risk of bacterial growth with lower temperatures.

Mixing valve with anti-scald isn't cheap, but it's cheaper than a new water heater. It does require plumbing though. More work to install. For my purposes, this is a better solution. The OP will obviously have to decide what the "BEST" solution is for his situation.

AS ALWAYS, you must read the COMPLETE Law/regulation. This is what it actually states. Doug

"Nothing in this section shall prohibit an owner of an owner-occupied residential unit or resident of a leased or rented residential unit from readjusting the temperature setting after occupancy."

I finally found the topic I posted a little over a year ago about installing the new shower valve. We used it on several trips last year, and it worked great. The best part is, the BOSS even likes it! That makes it all worthwhile when the boss is happy :B

Installed A Thermostatic Shower Mixer Valve

:):)

And there’s also the fact that some of us need and want to do everything possible to reduce wasting our fresh water. When we’re dry camping and won’t be able to refill the water tank that’s only 30 gallons, watching ANY of it go down the drain unused bugs me.

That was the primary reason I went to the trouble of installing the thermostatic mixing valve. Now, the only water that’s “wasted” when taking a shower is what you lose waiting for the hot water to reach the shower valve. Once that happens, the valve maintains the temperature you set, and all you do is turn the flow off and on at the shower head. I could easily catch that first bit of water in a bowl, and pour it back in the tank if I wanted.

I’ll give you the benefit of the doubt that you don’t really think that everyone else is just too dumb to turn the shower head away from themselves.

:):)

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Slow learners may require getting hit with that hot water a couple of times but should come to remember to turn head away initially.

*************

I guess some folks have nothing better to do than try and make themselves feel better putting others down. They have counselors for that.

But what you lack - aside from empathy and decent grammar- is some common sense. It's not about stupidity or forgetting, it's about accidents. Suppose someone drops the shampoo and it hits the handle shutting off the cold? Suppose it's a child? There is a reason anti scalding codes exist. Despite Doug's claim they don't - granted they are residential but they exist in abundance.

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Mike134 wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Mike134 wrote:

Maybe you mis-read my post. What you describe is exactly what I had - a shower head with an on/off button. Despite this, when turned back on it was all hot for a few seconds. So it wasn't that I had to readjust the valves - they were already adjusted. I am just thankful it wasn't my son that got burned.

My shower head with the push button does the same thing. Not sure how the water remains circulating but it's just a straight hot water blast till the tempered water mixes in a few seconds later. Must be a design flaw since we both have had that happen

______________________________________________________________________

When you stop/limit flow thru shower head using the on/off button/lever on the handle the shower faucet acts like a mixing chamber.....
Hot water typically is at a higher pressure then the cold water due to pressure increase in WH tank from heating the water (it swells when heated/pressure increases from the swelling)
So when you turn shower head back on...hot water flows first until mixing of hot/cold in faucet catches back up with previous adjustment of knobs.

Simple thermal dynamics .......

Simple 'cure' ---- turn shower head away from you when first turning it back on via shutoff on handle.

Slow learners may require getting hit with that hot water a couple of times but should come to remember to turn head away initially.

I appreciate the explanation about the thermal dynamics makes sense.

To bad the rest of your answer shows you to be an a**h**e

Tisk tisk....not nice to call people names

But if you are one of those slow learners I guess it is the best you can do

Good you are smart enough to fill in the asterisks.