Atwood Water heater trouble

[Mcheil83]

Hopefully someone can help me out with my situation. My camper is a 2016 and we had trouble with our hot water heater ALL last year. It was at the dealer 5 times until they installed a brand new water heater, it worked as it should. We used the camper in June and worked fine and we were not able to camp untill Oct. 19,20,21. Now we have no spark you can smell the gas going through the tube. I put a new igniter in today (with the proper gape) and still no spark. Wiggled some of the wires around and still nothing. There is water in the tank cause I pulled the pressure relief valve and water shot out right away. Read about it might be a control board but it’s brand new. Is there any other test I can run to maybe determine what is might be? Sorry for the long paragraph just wanted to make sure I gave all the details. Thank you everyone in advance MATT

[drsteve]

Thanks for letting us know. Good to hear that Atwood took care of you.

[Mcheil83]

Giving everyone an update who was generous to me with giving me suggestions, thank soooo much Old-Biscuit for the 800 number. We gave them the number on our circuit board and they sent us a new board for free without any hesitation. Installed the board around 10 am and has been working perfect. Thank all hopefully I can help someone else out with their question in the future. Matt

[Mcheil83]

Thanks old-biscuit I’ll definitely give that number a call tomorrow greatly appreciate it also I appreciate everyone’s chiming in on the topic

[Old-Biscuit]

Atwood HAD some BAD boards...that has been resolved

Get new board via warranty from Atwood (Dometic)
Retail RV: 800-544-4881

[PUCampin]

I had this same problem with my gas only Atwood water heater. If a new probe did not fix the no spark condition, then the only thing that can be done is replace the control board since it is the LRU (Lowest Replaceable Unit). If you can't get it replaced under warranty, you can use a board made by a third party company called "Dinosaur" It has been several years, but when I had to replace mine, the Dinosaur universal water heater board was about half the cost of an Atwood board and works just as well. The Dinosaur board was around $100. Even if under waranty, if it means your time and gas to hook it up, take it to the dealer, leave it for who knows how long, go pick it up, it may be worth your expense and agrevation to just do it yourself. There were several small things on my trailer I just fixed myself rather than trying to get warrantied at the dealer.

Of note, the screw holes are in slightly different locations so be carefull. I managed to put one through the aluminum tank when mounting it! I then had to pull it all apart and take the tank to a friend to weld it.

[Mcheil83]

Again thank you everyone for the input. Like I said I will be buying a new circuit board this Monday or Tuesday. How often do they go bad, specially since this one is almost brand new? We’re not full time RVing, we go about we go about 6 to 9 times a year.

[Old-Biscuit]

Re-read my first post.........

[dougrainer]

BFL13 wrote:

dougrainer wrote:
Gas, but NO SPARK. BAD Control/ignitor module. NOTHING else is controlled to cause NO Spark other than the module. Doug

Good info Doug. Is that "control/igniter module" part of "the board" or a separate item you get?

It is the same board. On Water heaters there is only the one module. The tstat/ECO tells the board to ignite. If is sparks but no gas and you do NOT have 12 volts to the gas valve from the gas valve wire at the control module and it has gas but no spark, just the one part is the culprit. Gas Water heaters are very simple appliances and if a so called Service center replaced a water heater, after 5 attempts to fix, then I would suspect that they have nobody qualified to work on RV's. If they cannot fix a simple water heater, then how can they fix more complex things? Doug

[BFL13]

dougrainer wrote:
Gas, but NO SPARK. BAD Control/ignitor module. NOTHING else is controlled to cause NO Spark other than the module. Doug

Good info Doug. Is that "control/igniter module" part of "the board" or a separate item you get?

[dougrainer]

Gas, but NO SPARK. BAD Control/ignitor module. NOTHING else is controlled to cause NO Spark other than the module. Doug

[BFL13]

drsteve wrote:

BFL13 wrote:
I don't know if it would be the board or not. Why would it work ok in June and then not in Oct?

Because stuff usually works until it doesn't?

That's true, but why would it go bad while it is not on? Or did it fry something on start-up in Oct? The red light switch did its three tries and the gas did come on if that is a board job, so what part of the board does the ignition? What/where is the limit switch Doug mentioned in the other thread that is involved with ignition?

[drsteve]

BFL13 wrote:
I don't know if it would be the board or not. Why would it work ok in June and then not in Oct?

Because stuff usually works until it doesn't?

[185EZ]

Wouldn't it still be under warranty depending on when they installed the new heater?
Even with that the dealer has documentation of all the problems you've had.
I had a problem and found the contacts on the circuit board dirty.
Cleaned them up and all was good.
Check your grounds too.

[Mcheil83]

Yeah I agree I don’t want to keep throwing parts into it but I feel like the circuit board is like my last option. Thank you everyone for all your help and opinion. Hopefully next week I’ll buy a board an that’ll do it. Thanks again everyone.