Ok so it appears my inverter with bypass died. It has a hard wired 120v output and a standard 120v input that has a standard 3 prong plug (in addition to the 12v input). The plug has an outlet nearby that it is plugged into. When the RV is plugged into shore power the inverter is bypassed and the 120v is just a pass through. So I am going to replace the inverter and thought I would wire a 3 prong female to the inverter and a male to the wire going to the outlet in the coach (powering the fridge). I would plug these together under normal operation. If the inverter dies in the future I could simply plug the male plug I added and plug into the outlet the inverter is now plugged into. I realize I would no longer have inverter capabilities but would maintain power to the fridge while on shore power. My question is to the electrical experts, is there a problem with replacing the hardwired output with the plug/outlet as explained above?Thanks

Yes, female plug on the inverter OUT circuit is fine. Had to read it twice to verify that you were not considering a "dead man's plug" which is a male plug on a powered/hot circuit.And, if this is an expensive inverter, may be cheaper to just buy a 30 amp ATS to replace the built in ATS in the inverter OR repair/replace the ATS in the inverter.Several options here depending on quality/cost of current inverter.

What exact model of inverter just died, and what exact model are you replacing it with? Also is this really an inverter/charger?Confusing 120v paths. Why can't you just plug the fridge into an outlet that works on shore power and use an inverter to run the outlet (and any other 120v things) when off- grid by plugging your shore power into the inverter and turning the converter off?

Instead of the manual plug scheme consider a separate transfer switch and a stand alone inverter.If you have an inverter/charger you would need to get a separate converter to supply 12 volts and charge the battery.

This is just an inverter. Model wfco wf-5110. For ease of replacement thinking of using same. No separate transfer switch needed to install. I like the current setup since no need to do anything when going from traveling to shore power as it automatically switches over. The reason I am proposing the plug is if in the future it breaks again it is a simple plug change behind the inverter and fridge is back in business. I currently have no access to the plug behind the fridge without removing the fridge

If all that is wrong with the existing inverter is the internal transfer switch, for under $75, you can get a separate 30 amp ATS. Easy to wire up:From main 120 breaker panel to ATS IN (favored input)From inverter OUT to ATS INATS OUT to circuits currently wired to inverter OUTBTW, there are some high end DP's that are wired this way from the factory (with the second ATS).

Bad inverter, rewire new one? | Good Sam Community

theczar
Explorer
Jan 11, 2020
Thank you all for the valuable information and options
wa8yxm
Explorer III
Jan 09, 2020
The only issues I see are two fold
1: Often an inverter needs more than 15 amps on the input due to also charging batteries.. Make sure the INLET plug/socket is rated at least if not more than the breaker feeding the inverter.. IE 30 amps.. I'd use the same size (or carry and adapter) for the outlet just in case you need to "Manually" bypass the inverter.

Second.. Is the problem that is MOST LIKELY to cause my CONVERTER to fail

I will describe it graphically
Socket-plug This works

Socket - - - - - Plug This does not work

Yup the plug comes out of the socket Use of TWIST LOCK helps prevent this.
NicodemusY
Explorer
Jan 09, 2020
In order to buy the “right” inverter for your RV, you'll need to determine the size of the inverter. To decide what size you need, total the wattage requirements of all the equipment you want to power, and then add another 20%. Next you'll need to decide if you need a pure sine or modified sine inverter
MrWizard
Moderator
Jan 03, 2020
Too the OP
Yes you can do what you are proposing,
road-runner
Explorer III
Jan 02, 2020
Without getting into the technical debate I'll say that I have done exactly what you are proposing for exactly the same reason.
BFL13
Explorer II
Jan 02, 2020
http://www.bestconverter.com/1000-Watt-Pure-Sine-Inverter-Hard-Wire-w-Transfer-Switch-WF-5110R_p_177.html#.Xg4Y6EnsZpw

We all have a hate-on for WFCO converters, and here your WFCO inverter died. Anyway, that is expensive (and a little weird)

Check this out for doing the job at a much lower price and get a transfer switch as suggested.

https://powermaxconverters.com/product-category/inverters-dc-ac/

A couple of us here have the 2000w one of those PMX jobs and they are working well. They also make a transfer switch for 30 or 50.

https://powermaxconverters.com/product/pmts/
Flute_Man
Explorer
Jan 02, 2020
wolfe10 wrote:
Flute Man wrote:
The prongs on a male plug should never be “Hot”.
Very dangerous. I know some people do it but it is not right.

Totally agree, but from re-reading his post, he is not doing this. The male part would be the RECEIVER of power (to outlets), not PROVIDER of power (from inverter).

Thanks for the clarification.
time2roll
Nomad
Jan 02, 2020
A Xantrex Prowatt TS can be plug and play.

http://www.bestconverter.com/Xantrex-Prowatt-SW-Inline-15-Amp-Transfer-Switch

GoPower stand alone 1000w sine inverter:
https://www.boatandrvaccessories.com/products/go-power-gp-sw1000-12-inverter

I believe a stand alone transfer switch is more reliable.
wolfe10
Explorer
Jan 02, 2020
Flute Man wrote:
The prongs on a male plug should never be “Hot”.
Very dangerous. I know some people do it but it is not right.

Totally agree, but from re-reading his post, he is not doing this. The male part would be the RECEIVER of power (to outlets), not PROVIDER of power (from inverter).
Flute_Man
Explorer
Jan 02, 2020
The prongs on a male plug should never be “Hot”.
Very dangerous. I know some people do it but it is not right.

Are you really, really sure the inverter is bad?

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