Batteries/solar not holding up, troubleshooting help please

[twvette]

I have no luck getting batteries to hold up it seems. Had a couple different RV's and different setups too (wet cell, lifeline golf cart, gel deep cycle batteries)and none have ever held up well.

Anyways, here is what I have now:
- Onan 5500 gen
- Iota DLS-45 converter
- Three Optima Bluetop D31M (less than a year old)
- Large solar panel (or maybe it is even two combined together?)
- Shell Solar RV 20 solar controller /monitor
- Only camp in AZ so almost always get great solar

Worked great in beginning but seem to be on downward spiral. I now can't get through even a mildly cold night (mid 40's) of heater use only without them dying. I have had to run the generator much more even with the solar system to get/keep them fairly charged whereas before the solar panel would generally give me full recovery from typical day and night use.

Here are some observations:
- I previously got 13.4 volts or higher when running the generator but now only see 13.0, and settles at about 12.7v a little while after shutting off generator
- When shutting off generator I never get much more than an "OK" status on my monitor whereas as before I would typically be at "GOOD" or a few LEDs above at least for a while
- Connected an automotive style battery charger after charging with generator for a while and it also claimed the batteries were fully charged.

Here are some questions/concerns:
- Is the solar system overcharging my batteries slowly killing them?
- I do not have the Iota IQ4 smart charge option as far as I can tell, perhaps this will help? Seems like a long shot as had this in previous RV and did not see any real improvement but maybe would prevent Onan 5500 from improperly charging gel batteries this time around?
- Generator/Iota DLS-45 issue in general? All my RV's have had this same setup
- Is the Shell Solar RV 20 junk or good? I did not purchase or install this system.
- Can anyone tell from pics below which solar panels I might have? I have no clue on make/model/output and no markings on them even underneath!
- Maybe I am leaking back power through the solar panels at night?
- Would putting an ammeter inline help figure this out? Maybe a Doc Wattson http://www.rc-electronics-usa.com/ammeters/rv-battery-monitor.html
- How to test my batteries to see if they are still good? Maybe only one battery is bad?







Thanks for any help!

[full_mosey]

The OP has three(3) 75 AH batteries, or 225AHs, not 150AH.

HTH;
John

[KJINTF]

Keeping it simple might want to try using the "Dual Voltage Jack" on the rear side of your Iota DLS Series converter.

Get a RJ11 connector or phone cord (4 conductor type)short the inside two connectors together leaving the others open. This will increase the output of the converter. Take a voltage measurement should increase to 14.4 very quickly.

[Snowman9000]

OP, imo you would benefit from reading the Handy Bob Solar blog. Some people here have quibbles with his opinions, but his articles will help answer some of your system questions.

https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/

You could have poor installation, for instance. If the controller is a long way from the batteries. Or poor connections, or undersized wire, etc etc.

[full_mosey]

I see some rather fervent advice against Optima. I do agree and further say that there is NO advantage to them over more conventional AGMs for RVing. They are too expensive for the AHs.

I got mine before I knew better. 🙂

OK? Now can we put that to rest and focus our attention on helping the OP?

HTH;
JOHN

[full_mosey]

jplante4 wrote:
Surprised no one mentioned the most common cause of batteries not charging - dirty terminals. Take all the wires off the terminals and clean them shiny bright with a wire brush or sandpaper (stay away from steel wool says the voice of experience). Put everything back together tightly and coat all terminals with some sort of grease that will prevent future corrosion.

Valid point. I assume you mean chalky or corroded connections. It is possible the former batteries were flooded and the cables need to be checked.

AGMs usually don't have dirty terminals, however connections should be checked annualy.

If an AGMs terminals are 'dirty', the battery is likely defective and needs to be professionally examined.

HTH;
John

[MEXICOWANDERER]

He is fumbling in the dark. Information - numbers are needed to resolve this, not guesswork. He HAS used a Lifeline without success. His battery bank is taking a beating and it is serious. Only inspection will help here. Hard numbers and not a crystal ball. Santa needs to bring an Amp Hour Meter.

[2oldman]

jplante4 wrote:
Surprised no one mentioned the most common cause of batteries not charging - dirty terminals... coat all terminals with some sort of grease that will prevent future corrosion.

AGM's are not usually subject to corrosion, which is probably why it hasn't been mentioned.

I agree with a couple things: panels way too small, batteries too. And don't replace with more Optima.

[JiminDenver]

Not all corrosion can be seen. I had to help my FIL with his car that would not start even with a new starter and battery. I was about to pull the starter when I noticed a small bump in the covering of the cable. I ended up cutting two inches off of the cable to get back to clean wire, after that the car fired right up. Your charge controller may be putting out 5 amps, but is the battery getting it.

[pianotuna]

Hi jplante4,

AGM batteries are far less likely to have the problem.

jplante4 wrote:
Surprised no one mentioned the most common cause of batteries not charging - dirty terminals. Take all the wires off the terminals and clean them shiny bright with a wire brush or sandpaper (stay away from steel wool says the voice of experience). Put everything back together tightly and coat all terminals with some sort of grease that will prevent future corrosion.

[JiminDenver]

First get the batteries checked out. 150 Ah isn't a lot but I have a single 95 Ah grp 27 running our trailer and the furnace always runs a lot. It and the solar is all we need in decent weather unless we start running the big inverter.

I know I would hate to have to plug in and use our cheap converter, even more so if I had fancy batteries. Make sure yours is functioning and has the features available to take care of those fancy batteries.

The solar obviously needs to be upgraded if you want it to cover your needs but you will need to know those before you can move forward. I estimated our by simply watching the daily voltage drop over 3 seasons. It ended up being useless not because it was a rough estimate, but because once we got the solar we stopped conserving, got a big inverter and quadrupled the amount of power we use.

When you do start deciding on what to do, make sure all of the batteries, converter and charge controller play well together. Reading threads on AGM and the hassles they are to keep happy keeps pushing me back to FLA when considering the replacements for our banks.

Last thing is to go thru and make sure all of your connections are clean in your current set up. One corroded connection can cost you a lot of power. ( I see that was mentioned. lol)

[jplante4]

Surprised no one mentioned the most common cause of batteries not charging - dirty terminals. Take all the wires off the terminals and clean them shiny bright with a wire brush or sandpaper (stay away from steel wool says the voice of experience). Put everything back together tightly and coat all terminals with some sort of grease that will prevent future corrosion.

[pianotuna]

Hi RJ,

3 amps x 12 volts = 36 watts

5 amps x 12 volts = 50 watts

The point I was trying to drive home is that the OP doesn't have much charging happening from solar, and not nearly enough to be effective.

If you bothered to read the entire thread you would have seen I recommended between 400 and 150 watts.

RJsfishin wrote:
Quote:
3 amps corresponds to about 36 watts. 5 is more like 60 watts-
---------------------------------------------------------------
Get w/ reality !!
3 amps is more like 55 watts,...and 5 amps is more like 100 watts
Always quoting specs under perfect ideal conditions, is not impressing anyone, and more misleading them into thinking their solar system is not performing normally.
.

[RJsfishin]

I can't find an Optima w/ more than 75 AH, and at the ridiculous price of 269-299. An Optima is about the poorest choice for an RV house battery.
Maybe start w/ a battery bank of at least 225, instead of a measly 150.
Then figure out what your problem mite be w/ charging. Your converter should always be putting out 13.8. You are definently being under charged.
And you better find a different choice of heat than that battery sucking,....propane sucking furnace.

[RJsfishin]

Quote:
3 amps corresponds to about 36 watts. 5 is more like 60 watts-
---------------------------------------------------------------
Get w/ reality !!
3 amps is more like 55 watts,...and 5 amps is more like 100 watts
Always quoting specs under perfect ideal conditions, is not impressing anyone, and more misleading them into thinking their solar system is not performing normally.
.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

"A man's gotta know his limitations"