Broken ladder - repair or replace?

[Ramblin__Ralph]

Last summer I had an encounter with a tree and it won, resulting in a broken ladder on my truck camper. The attached pictures show the remaining part of the still attached bottom section and the broken off center section. The top section is also broken from the top of the center. I'm wondering if I could put the ladder back together successfully and not have to install a new one? That would save quite a bit of work to remove all the old caulking at the bottom and the above standoff and put on new.

I was thinking about either a sleeve to go over the ends of the two broken tubes or an insert that would go inside the two tubes. A sleeve on the outside might cause a problem at the standoff though, since the sleeve diameter would be bigger than the ladder and possibly affect the proper flat attachment to the top.

Do either of the above ideas seem workable?

Thanks, Ralph

[Gjac]

Gdetrailer wrote:

Gjac wrote:
I fixed mine with a steel pipe I had laying around. I slid the steel pipe inside the the broken Al tubes drilled two holes one in each section through the tube and steel pipe then installed SS bolts and nuts. I made an outer sleeve from another section of a broken tubing just to cover the split section. The repair cost nothing but about 2 hrs of my time and is much stronger than the original 3/32 in Al tube. That ladder is an easy target for trees, gutters and large boulders especially if you are backing up alone.

Aluminum, steel, stainless steel?

Nothing like breaking all of the metallurgic rules, toss in a little bit of saltwater spray and now you have a bunch of oxides..

Aluminum and steel together, not the best of friends, stainless and aluminum barely get along provided the stainless is the correct mix.

Man, you guys really do not value your lives.

Wow! Now I may die because I broke some metallurgic rules. The repair was made 15 years ago with no corrosion and will be there long after the MH or myself is in heaven.

[Gdetrailer]

Ramblin' Ralph wrote:
Thanks for your comments. I agree that internal tubing would be the best fix. I also agree a new ladder is not that much. However, finding an exact replacement has not been easy. If I could find one, it would mean drilling no new holes and make the job much easier. I'll probably go with a new “universal” ladder and hope it's not too hard to modify and install for my application.

Exact replacements may not be a choice since most RV manufacturers typically will have most items custom made for their setups.

Aftermarket replacement ladders typically will be adjustable to a certain extent. If things workout the ladder mounts may be adjustable which would reduce the need to add new screw holes..

One must also ask the question, How many times do I need to access the roof?

Once a yr?

Twice a yr?

Once every couple of yrs?

Every trip?

Myself, once a yr max and that is just to check the roofing and caulking.. 8ft step ladder setup beside my TT once a yr does the trick for myself so I never felt the need for a built on ladder..

Besides, I have used those built in ladders for my Dads 5ver to help him find a leak.. Sketchy at best, rungs not predictable placement since his rear wall was not straight.. Had to watch your step closely..

[Gdetrailer]

Gjac wrote:
I fixed mine with a steel pipe I had laying around. I slid the steel pipe inside the the broken Al tubes drilled two holes one in each section through the tube and steel pipe then installed SS bolts and nuts. I made an outer sleeve from another section of a broken tubing just to cover the split section. The repair cost nothing but about 2 hrs of my time and is much stronger than the original 3/32 in Al tube. That ladder is an easy target for trees, gutters and large boulders especially if you are backing up alone.

Aluminum, steel, stainless steel?

Nothing like breaking all of the metallurgic rules, toss in a little bit of saltwater spray and now you have a bunch of oxides..

Aluminum and steel together, not the best of friends, stainless and aluminum barely get along provided the stainless is the correct mix.

Man, you guys really do not value your lives.

[Gjac]

I fixed mine with a steel pipe I had laying around. I slid the steel pipe inside the the broken Al tubes drilled two holes one in each section through the tube and steel pipe then installed SS bolts and nuts. I made an outer sleeve from another section of a broken tubing just to cover the split section. The repair cost nothing but about 2 hrs of my time and is much stronger than the original 3/32 in Al tube. That ladder is an easy target for trees, gutters and large boulders especially if you are backing up alone.

[agesilaus]

Well if you have a local machine shop then you could get them to turn down some aluminum bar or rod down to the right diameter. But again this may cost more than the ladder is worth. Personally I think a hardwood dowel would be perfectly adequate, it's not as if this is a high stress application.

[Ramblin__Ralph]

Thanks for your comments. I agree that internal tubing would be the best fix. I also agree a new ladder is not that much. However, finding an exact replacement has not been easy. If I could find one, it would mean drilling no new holes and make the job much easier. I'll probably go with a new “universal” ladder and hope it's not too hard to modify and install for my application.

[doughere]

I'm with Gdetrailer. These things are at best none too hardy. I'm all for saving money, but not at the expense of safety.

[Dick_B]

How about one of those collapsible ladders that don't take up much space. Unless aesthetics are a problem for you leave the ladder pieces in place and hook up a temporary clothes rack on what's left.

[Gdetrailer]

Horsedoc wrote:
TIG weld at a local metal shop>>?

Extremely THIN aluminum tubing most likely even a good welder with aluminum welding experience might have tough time.. Not to mention what most good welders will charge per hr would easily exceed the cost of a NEW ladder..

To "fix" it (and that is a stretch), the tubing needs reinforced, internal tubing would be ideal.. Now you would have to find aluminum tubing of the correct diameter to fit snugly inside the existing ladder tubing.. Not easy to find tubing nor cheap in fractional sizes to fit inside or outside diameters..

Then one would HAVE to cut back the existing ladder tubing to get rid of any kinks or tears which would compromise the strength.. Making for a larger gap that one would have to account for in the steps (have to keep steps distance consistent otherwise risk a missed step).

Then once you get all that together then attempt to weld it without blow outs and hope that it all sticks together..

Aluminum like most metals also work hardens, bends or twisting or heating it can and will make it harden and get brittle.

If one was to attempt this repair, drilling through the internal and external pipe and using a bolt or even a through rivet would be easier and most likely safer in the long run..

But, in reality, for the measily $127 it costs for a new ladder, to me all that work and hassle is not worth risking my life on..

[Horsedoc]

TIG weld at a local metal shop>>?

[Gdetrailer]

Ladders are a safety hazard when they are in good shape.

Replacement ladders don't cost an "arm and leg" but DR bills, xrays, surgeons and hospital stays DO.

Found a brand new replacement exterior ladder HERE for $127..

If that won't work, shop around they are not all that expensive and you will have a much more sound ladder..

Hardware store chain I worked for many yrs ago the stores sent back any damaged in shipment ladders and our warehouse had to destroy the ladders.. Some of those were very high dollar heavy duty fiberglass extension ladders..

Was sad to see a $400+ ladder get chopped up and tossed into the dumpster but ladders can be replaced, your life however cannot.

[wa8yxm]

My opinion of those ladders is something you normally leave..er.. behind (when sitting down on a very special "chair")

I had a fabricator make me a pair of "J" hooks (they look like a letter J) lag bolted them to the rear of the RV a few inches apart just below the roof line.

My dad had gotten a convertable Step/Extension ladder, the "J's" were set so that i just fit over them. I hung it on the 'J's put a shower Grab Bar at the bottom and both bungee corded and bicycle locked the ladder to the shower bar.

Extension it was JUST long enough to put me on the roof (I could have used 6 more inches but it was enough) and as a step ladder perfect for the semi-annual wash and wax.

[BobsYourUncle]

I would opt for an internal pipe if you can find something with the same or slightly smaller OD than the ID of your ladder.

Fixing it internally would be safer. An outside sleeve, in addition to being in the way as you mentioned, could also be something to interfere with climbing it, or possibly cutting your fingers on.

As someone who has been climbing ladders for 45 years, I can say you get used to a certain size pipe on a ladder. You climb without really looking at it. If you suddenly encounter something that shouldn't be there, it could throw you off enough to slip. I know this from experience.

An internal pipe, or the good dowel idea above, could easily be held in place with a few pop rivets. One on each side of the joint and it will never go anywhere, even into wood. Then smooth over the outside of the rivet with some JB Weld or similar to eliminate sharp edges to catch your fingers on.

[RJsfishin]

I repaired mine, it was very time consuming, never again. I wished I had bought a new one