Can anybody tell me....

campermama wrote:
It wasn't all of you, just some of you and the remarks. If my question wasn't clear then someone could have said that.

Anyway this is what I learned (and was looking for).....
The 2A reading is what was "being sent" to the batteries, even though it is sunny that is all the batteries needed at the time. When I turned on some lights and that number changed to 3.4A that is what was "being sent" to the batteries to compensate for the power being used.
Don't know if I explained it right but I understand now.

This puts you in the "GOOD" area of the original question.

Here is some basics to read on batteries, solar etc:
The 12 Volt Side of Life

Oh, mama, it’s so difficult to answer your questions if you won’t gain a basic understanding of RVs and solar. It’s not that difficult but requires reading...and rereading.

BFL13 wrote:

campermama wrote:
It wasn't all of you, just some of you and the remarks. If my question wasn't clear then someone could have said that.

Anyway this is what I learned (and was looking for).....
The 2A reading is what was "being sent" to the batteries, even though it is sunny that is all the batteries needed at the time. When I turned on some lights and that number changed to 3.4A that is what was "being sent" to the batteries to compensate for the power being used.
Don't know if I explained it right but I understand now.

No. The amps for the lights go to them and not to the batteries as compensation. Any amps left over go to the batteries if they want any.

The amps to the lights might go via the battery posts as wiring connections, but do not go down into/through the batteries like "amps to the battery" do.

You can have the batteries wanting 5 amps and solar putting out(EDIT--scrub that!--make that "able to put out") 8 amps and turn 10 amps worth of lights on. The lights get their 10 amps, the battery not only does not get its 5 amps but has to supply 2 amps to the lights.

The controller will show 8 amps output, and the battery monitor will show minus 2 amps.

If you want the batteries to get anything you have to reduce the load (lights etc) to under 8 amps. At 3 amps for lights, now the batteries get 5 amps, which is all they will accept anyway. So you have 3 "free" amps to do something with.

Thanks for posting that. I was a little gun shy to point out where the Amps actually go. :)

Did campermama ever report where she installed the inverter, near the battery or near the television?

campermama wrote:
It wasn't all of you, just some of you and the remarks. If my question wasn't clear then someone could have said that.

Anyway this is what I learned (and was looking for).....
The 2A reading is what was "being sent" to the batteries, even though it is sunny that is all the batteries needed at the time. When I turned on some lights and that number changed to 3.4A that is what was "being sent" to the batteries to compensate for the power being used.
Don't know if I explained it right but I understand now.

No. The amps for the lights go to them and not to the batteries as compensation. Any amps left over go to the batteries if they want any.

The amps to the lights might go via the battery posts as wiring connections, but do not go down into/through the batteries like "amps to the battery" do.

You can have the batteries wanting 5 amps and solar putting out(EDIT--scrub that!--make that "able to put out") 8 amps and turn 10 amps worth of lights on. The lights get their 10 amps, the battery not only does not get its 5 amps but has to supply 2 amps to the lights.

The controller will show 8 amps output, and the battery monitor will show minus 2 amps.

If you want the batteries to get anything you have to reduce the load (lights etc) to under 8 amps. At 3 amps for lights, now the batteries get 5 amps, which is all they will accept anyway. So you have 3 "free" amps to do something with.

I'm happy you figured that out.

HTH;
John

It wasn't all of you, just some of you and the remarks. If my question wasn't clear then someone could have said that.

Anyway this is what I learned (and was looking for).....
The 2A reading is what was "being sent" to the batteries, even though it is sunny that is all the batteries needed at the time. When I turned on some lights and that number changed to 3.4A that is what was "being sent" to the batteries to compensate for the power being used.
Don't know if I explained it right but I understand now.

rexlion wrote:
if you have 200W of solar panels, 2A is ugly.

with a full battery/poor sun ... ? I believe that is false. If there is no load (including the battery) the controller limits energy production, what is not needed is not produced. 2A alone is neither good bad or ugly.

Same with 19ah, may be impressive for one day or not. full batteries don't need much energy to stay full.

OP, please answer your question now that you know more so we can learn how to answer your question. I want to know where folks went so WRONG

In laymen terms please what these readings on my solar controller mean?

I read through your last few posts and don't see anybody making you feel like an idiot. From my perspective, I didn't really know what 'good bad or ugly' meant. It's a cutesy question.

rexlion wrote:
You're asking if the numbers are good, bad or ugly. And the answer is.... it depends. :) For example, if you have a roughly 40W panel, 2A output in full sun is good; but if you have 200W of solar panels, 2A is ugly.

Thank you, thank you!! You are the only one who basically answered my question!! I do have 200W, that 2A was not direct sun. But now I understand what that number is telling me.
I have been a part of this forum many years (as you can see on the side) and it used to be a great place to come for help. After my last few posts I am very disappointed. It feels like people just want to criticize and make you feel like an idiot for asking for a little help instead of actually ANSWERING the question or helping.

Thank you again for answering my question!!