Can I move a GFCI receptacle?

[martipr]

The GFCI receptacle with the reset button in my TT is buried behind the television in the cabinet. Is there any problem with swapping it with one of the more accessible GFCI receptacle?

[joebedford]

wnjj wrote:

joebedford wrote:
AFAIK a GFCI receptacle works equally well in any location on the circuit i.e. it DOESN'T have to be first in the circuit.

The GFCI receptacle itself will work fine, but to protect other receptacles, they must be wired downstream of it.

I was about to do the dumb a** thing and post "No, you're wrong" but I decided to confuse the issue with the facts by checking Leviton's instructions. You're more right than me but I was a little bit right. 🙂

The GFCI receptacle does not have to be wired first but it will only protect itself and receptacles downstream (i.e. on its load side).

[jrnymn7]

road-runner wrote:

And only one gfci per circuit... or they simply won't work. No way, no how, does the OP's rig have more than one gfci per circuit... impossible.

Incorrect information. I have used multiple GFCIs per circuit, as multiple paralleled GFCI outlets on the same circuit, or as chained GFCIs (one downstream of another). If multiple GFCIs didn't work it wouldn't be possible to use a hair dryer or pressure washer on a GFCI-protected circuit. It also wouldn't be possible to successfully power an RV from a GFCI-protected circuit, which many RV owners routinely do.

Nevertheless, there is no need for multiple gfci's. But I admit I was thinking in terms of any downstream gfci being wired through (i.e; off the load terminals) of the previous gfci. My bad. I'm not a fan of pigtailing, as it creates more possible loose connections, and can make for a rather tight fit inside the box.

[westend]

Is it possible to install an additional box close to the present location and move the GFCI receptacle to that location, replacing the GFCI behind the TV with a standard receptacle?

[CA_Traveler]

You got it. Does this provide you with a plan to move the GFCI?

[martipr]

What I think I have learned from this is:
1. The outlet with the reset button is the only true GFCI outlet, the others are regular outlets that are protected by the true GFCI.

2. The wiring should be from breaker to #1, the GFCI outlet, then to #2, #3,and #4.

3. If I swap #1 with say #3 then #1 and #2 will not be protected because they are not downstream of the GFCI outlet. #3 will be protected because it is the GFCI and #4 will be protected because it is downstream of the GFCI.

I am sure that if any of this is wrong you guys will tell me and get me even more confused.

OK jrnymn7 I most definitely will be sure power is off. While in the service I worked with a system that used 400 volts DC. After one hit from that anyone will always check and recheck!

[martipr]

CA Traveler wrote:

martipr wrote:
I assume the outlet behind the TV is a GFCI because it is on the wall behind the shower so I don't want to put a standard outlet there.

Why assume? Buy a $10 household tester with GFCI test button and find out what outlets are on the circuit.

The GFCI is a safety protection device. However moving it from the TV outlet to the next downstream outlet would be my choice if a panel CB/GFCI is not available. The main outlets to be protected are any near water so I would not be overly concerned with not protecting the TV even though it's behind the shower.

Another option would be to run a new wire from the CB panel to a new GFCI outlet somewhere that's easy to reset and then connect the load side to the TV outlet replacing that GFCI with a regular outlet.

I worded that badly. I know it is a GFCI outlet, it has the reset button. The assumption is that a GFCI outlet was in this location because of the shower.

[Ron3rd]

Bobbo wrote:

martipr wrote:
My TT has 4 GFCI outlets only one of which has a reset button.

If it doesn't have a reset button, it isn't a GFCI outlet. It may be a square face, but it still isn't a GFCI outlet.

The 3 outlets without the reset button are probably protected by the single outlet with the reset button.

Agreed, the other outlets probably just have a "gfi sticker" on them meaning they are gfi protected downstream.

[road-runner]

Yes it can be done but is a waste of money, as long as it is wired right the 1 GFCI covers the rest on the circuit.

I don't understand how the money issue relates to whether or not it's electrically impossible to have multiple GFCIs on one circuit. But to address the money issue, a lot of houses are wired with one GFCI protecting multiple bathrooms, and it just might be worth it, to somebody, spending the extra 15-20 bucks to have a separate GFCI in each bathroom rather than playing "find the GFCI" when an outlet doesn't work.

[Hornnumb2]

road-runner wrote:

And only one gfci per circuit... or they simply won't work. No way, no how, does the OP's rig have more than one gfci per circuit... impossible.

Incorrect information. I have used multiple GFCIs per circuit, as multiple paralleled GFCI outlets on the same circuit, or as chained GFCIs (one downstream of another). If multiple GFCIs didn't work it wouldn't be possible to use a hair dryer or pressure washer on a GFCI-protected circuit. It also wouldn't be possible to successfully power an RV from a GFCI-protected circuit, which many RV owners routinely do.

Yes it can be done but is a waste of money, as long as it is wired right the 1 GFCI covers the rest on the circuit.

[road-runner]

And only one gfci per circuit... or they simply won't work. No way, no how, does the OP's rig have more than one gfci per circuit... impossible.

Incorrect information. I have used multiple GFCIs per circuit, as multiple paralleled GFCI outlets on the same circuit, or as chained GFCIs (one downstream of another). If multiple GFCIs didn't work it wouldn't be possible to use a hair dryer or pressure washer on a GFCI-protected circuit. It also wouldn't be possible to successfully power an RV from a GFCI-protected circuit, which many RV owners routinely do.

[jrnymn7]

No reset button means no gfci... as others have said. And only one gfci per circuit... or they simply won't work. No way, no how, does the OP's rig have more than one gfci per circuit... impossible.

And even though it would be nice to have a gfci outlet above the kitchen counter, i.e; near the sink, it would render split wiring the receptacle impossible. By split wiring, I mean having it so you can plug two appliances (say, toaster and kettle) into the same receptacle without blowing the breaker. There are tabs on a regular receptacle that must be broken off, so each of the two halves of the receptacle work independently, i.e; on their own 15a breaker. 3 wire is used... red (hot), black (hot), and white (neutral). At the panel, either two separate 15a breakers are used, or a slim line double breaker that only takes up one spot.

OP, test ALL receptacles for power, then test the gfci by pushing the test button to see which receptacles are effected... downstream. Simply swap out the gfci with one of those effected receptacles... keeping in mind location of a possible ground fault event. And remember to turn off ALL power in the rig... if we don't hear back from you, we'll assume you didn't. 🙂

Another type of fault protection is arc fault... which will trip if someone throws say a pile of wet towels or a wet bathing suit up against a receptacle.

[wnjj]

joebedford wrote:
AFAIK a GFCI receptacle works equally well in any location on the circuit i.e. it DOESN'T have to be first in the circuit.

The GFCI receptacle itself will work fine, but to protect other receptacles, they must be wired downstream of it.

[CA_Traveler]

It's difficult to know just how your rig is setup and mfgs tend to do whatever. My rig for example has one GFCI and 18 downstream outlets - that is not a typo.

My S&B house has 8 outlets (garage and outside) on one GFCI with 270' of 14ga wire and a 15A CB. It meets code. When I plugged my saw into the last outlet and it had no sawing power I found how how the circuit was wired.

[CA_Traveler]

martipr wrote:
I assume the outlet behind the TV is a GFCI because it is on the wall behind the shower so I don't want to put a standard outlet there.

Why assume? Buy a $10 household tester with GFCI test button and find out what outlets are on the circuit.

The GFCI is a safety protection device. However moving it from the TV outlet to the next downstream outlet would be my choice if a panel CB/GFCI is not available. The main outlets to be protected are any near water so I would not be overly concerned with not protecting the TV even though it's behind the shower.

Another option would be to run a new wire from the CB panel to a new GFCI outlet somewhere that's easy to reset and then connect the load side to the TV outlet replacing that GFCI with a regular outlet.