can I seperate the 12 volt from the 110 system?

I think that will be my next step. Then I need to dig into the propane side and
see what works there.

I think that will be my next step. Then I need to dig into the propane side and
see what works there.

Terry78 wrote:
Hey thanks for all the help.
I left the black wire, charing circuit dis connected. (I think that's the charger wire) the hum and Clicking have stopped. I have 12 volt lights
and the 110 outlets that I wanted.so whew! Problem seems to be solved.
Thanks again to all you guys!

Until the batteries die. Get a small battery charger from Wal*Mart.

Hey thanks for all the help.
I left the black wire, charing circuit dis connected. (I think that's the charger wire) the hum and Clicking have stopped. I have 12 volt lights
and the 110 outlets that I wanted.so whew! Problem seems to be solved.
Thanks again to all you guys!

I will make an adjustment on my earlier post
12 volt system includes
Factory installed lights
Slides if you have 'em
Power jacks if you have 'em (See note below)
Water pump
Furnace
Control power for A/C Water heater and Fridge
IF YOU HAVE AN INVERTER the batteries may supply power to SOME outlets Microwave, television and releated places. Some. or all or none depending on the inverter.

120 volt outlets. A/C, 120 volt DEVICES like Microwave.. MAY not work at all without shore power. (or generator power).

Large (1000 watt and up) Inverters are often also chargers.

Thanks for the help guys. Now i got some work to do.
Will be checking out all thes ideas. My multi meter arrived from Amazon
This morning. Pretty fast. I ordered it yesterday at about 3.00 pm.
It got here at like 9 am.

time2roll wrote:
Just get a new converter already.

Give Randy a call. www.bestconverter.com

You could send him one. ;)

I'm assuming that in a full time 1979 trailer where he said he doesn't even need 12v, buying a converter is not a priority or good use of his budget.

Just get a new converter already.

Give Randy a call. www.bestconverter.com

Your 120v breakers and your 12v fuses and charge converter are separate systems
Contained in one box

You have to disconnect from shore power
Open the box
And disconnect the 120v for the charger part, only the charger part
You need to leave everything else connected

It's clear that you need another person that knows how to do this

Once this is done
You have to have another way to charge and maintain your batteries
Install another stand alone converter and connect it to the batteries
Or
Use a portable battery charger, doable but not the best option

joebedford wrote:
I don't understand why (some of) your 115V outlets don't work. Maybe the breaker labelled portable outlets powers your outlets?

Why do you think your converter is shot? In any case, if you disconnect it, all your ac devices should work.

I don’t think he ever said they don’t work (except it appears he has unplugged from shore power to stop the “loud hum”).

He just wants to know if he can run only 120v. Based upon what he listed as uses (full time=no breakaway, 120v lighting, not using RV heat), the fridge may be the only possible issue but did they even use 12v in 1979?