Can you run a 220v A/C unit off a 50 amp service?

[nicpaige]

Can you run a 220v A/C unit off a 50 amp service? I want to install a mini split unit and Im totally confused about "two hot feeds- split main breaker box" Thanks for responses.

[Kpackpackkelley]

When in doubt call a electrician and it better be a rv electrician not a residential.

[PatJ]

Horsedoc wrote:
Some of these answers are scary.

I agree, which is why I usually sit these threads out. Often the amount of misinformation is stunning. To this particular thread I'll add one thing I don't think has been mentioned in case this comes up in someone's future searches.

If you do decide to add a 240v appliance and have the space for the correct HACR tied breaker, there is one more thing to consider. Some campgrounds have three phase feed, so the 14-50 plug ends up being 120/208, which is allowed and legal. In my experience, many/most newer CG out west with 50A are configured this way. So be sure the "240v" appliance you are installing is also listed for 208v (most mini-splits will be.)

The OP made a good call selecting the 120V unit in my opinion.

[Horsedoc]

Some of these answers are scary.

[nicpaige]

Well I purchased the 110v unit. Thanks for all the responses. I will update how the install goes and any issues I run into.

[LittleBill]

time2roll wrote:

LittleBill wrote:

sayoung wrote:

As has been said before, lots of " 50 " amp service in campgrounds were installed on the cheap so you will have 120 from ea hot leg to neutral but not 240 hot to hot.

Please explain in detail how on the cheap is done with 50 amp and no 240v, because i don't understand how making it 120v only is easier or cheaper.

I think it is a bit rare actually and certainly not in compliance to NEC.
The reports are using a single pole 50a breaker and tie the single hot to both the hot terminals of the outlet. Voila you have "50 amp" service.

that's interesting. Thanks!

[time2roll]

LittleBill wrote:

sayoung wrote:

As has been said before, lots of " 50 " amp service in campgrounds were installed on the cheap so you will have 120 from ea hot leg to neutral but not 240 hot to hot.

Please explain in detail how on the cheap is done with 50 amp and no 240v, because i don't understand how making it 120v only is easier or cheaper.

I think it is a bit rare actually and certainly not in compliance to NEC.
The reports are using a single pole 50a breaker and tie the single hot to both the hot terminals of the outlet. Voila you have "50 amp" service.

[LittleBill]

sayoung wrote:

As has been said before, lots of " 50 " amp service in campgrounds were installed on the cheap so you will have 120 from ea hot leg to neutral but not 240 hot to hot.

Please explain in detail how on the cheap is done with 50 amp and no 240v, because i don't understand how making it 120v only is easier or cheaper.

[sayoung]

ajriding wrote:
You can if there is 2 phase electricity at the plug (A and B), BUT I think both phases must match, must have the same load on them and the same ability to supply. If it were just you powering off the breaker box then no problem, but who know how many campers are powering off only one phase of the box and not the other? You cannot control that. The first response is saying this, but without much of a warning flag waiving.
Great likelihood of damage to your AC unit. Cheaper to get the 120 version.

As has been said before, lots of " 50 " amp service in campgrounds were installed on the cheap so you will have 120 from ea hot leg to neutral but not 240 hot to hot.
Personally, I only have installed a couple hundred of these units and I haven't seen one that I believe would hold up for the long haul attached to a rv traveling constantly. Others may have a different experience.

[ajriding]

You can if there is 2 phase electricity at the plug (A and B), BUT I think both phases must match, must have the same load on them and the same ability to supply. If it were just you powering off the breaker box then no problem, but who know how many campers are powering off only one phase of the box and not the other? You cannot control that. The first response is saying this, but without much of a warning flag waiving.
Great likelihood of damage to your AC unit. Cheaper to get the 120 version.

[vermilye]

While you may need to change the panel or add a sub panel, 240V is available in any normal 50 amp RV service. The biggest problem from my point of view is that you won't be able to run the AC when connected to a 30 amp site using an adapter.

The site wiring that wa8yxm mentioned is rare, but would also present the same problem as using a 30 amp adapter. You need the two legs of 120V, not one leg doubled to get 240V...

[theoldwizard1]

Charlie D. wrote:
I am about as confused as anyone can get. The little research I have done shows a split unit. If so, where are you going to put the condenser?

They look like this



The condenser/compressor are typically mounted on the tongue, either above or behind the propane tanks. I also could be mounted on the back.

Running the 2 refrigerant pipes is the challenge.





If you have a strong back wall, they make brackets so you can mount it directly to the wall.

[Charlie_D_]

I am about as confused as anyone can get. The little research I have done shows a split unit. If so, where are you going to put the condenser?

[wa8yxm]

Big Katuna wrote:
220 wont be more efficient than 120. Watts is watts.

In another forum I'd call you an evil name for a half truth like that.
But not here.

Yes watts are indeed watts but amps are 1/2 on 240 what they are on 110 and that means less expensive wire, lower voltage loss and several other advantages. THIS IS WHY 50 amp service is 120/240 volt instead of just piping in 100 amps at 120 volt. Same watts either way but less voltage drop and less copper.

[theoldwizard1]

nicpaige wrote:
So it sounds like 50/50 on the subject.

NO ! If wired properly, it is 100% AFFIRMATIVE !

If you are confused, hire an electrician.