cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

Conditioning/"formatting" new batteries: update in 1st post

profdant139
Explorer II
Explorer II
(UPDATE -- based on advice from you all, I have "freshened" my batteries using the DC charging output on my Honda generator. It is supposed to put out 8 amps, but I measured it at 5, which was perfect for this job. The voltage was just over 15 during the charge -- the water started bubbling right away. I left the caps off so the gas could escape. I ran the generator for an hour for each battery. No way to tell if this had much of an effect -- the specific gravity of the batteries was maxed out before I started, according to my hydrometer.

We will see how these batteries perform -- thanks for the advice! End of update.)


I just replaced my two group 31 batteries after five years of hard use (over 300 nights of dry camping). I have read that the new batteries should be conditioned or "formatted" to reach maximum performance, prior to actual use in my trailer.

So I have two questions: is conditioning prior to first use really necessary, and (if so) what is the best way to do this? (I have, of course, fully charged the new batteries, and they are hooked up to my Batteryminder Plus.)

(By the way, I tried to look this up in the archives, but I could not find a prior discussion of this particular issue, which seems odd. If I missed an earlier discussion, I am sorry.)

Thanks in advance for your advice!!

(PS -- in case anyone is wondering, I decided to replace both batteries because one of them started to run down faster than the other one did. Strangely, the specific gravity in both batteries tested fine, but there was no doubt that one of the batteries was significantly weaker. And yes, both batteries were scrupulously maintained -- they never went below 12.1 volts, I checked the water level routinely and added distilled water as needed, and they sat on the Batteryminder whenever we were not traveling. I figure five years is a fair lifespan, especially given that we tow over rough dirt roads and have traveled quite a bit in sub-freezing weather. The battery boxes are necessarily on the tongue of the trailer, exposed to low temps.)

(Another PS -- these new batteries are from NAPA Auto Parts, just like my old ones. For reasons I do not understand, the prices at NAPA were far lower than those elsewhere, for seemingly-identical group 31 batteries -- same amp/hours, same dimensions, same weight.)
2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
Our trips -- pix and text
About our trailer
"A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single list."
75 REPLIES 75

jrnymn7
Explorer
Explorer
I think it's a good idea to log/establish how your solar system is working... especially with a new system. That way you'll have a baseline to compare to in the future, in case a bad connection creates excessive voltage drop, or something.

profdant139
Explorer II
Explorer II
Len -- overthinking?? Me??

Guilty as charged. I am a notorious "belt and suspenders" guy. (Cue the eye roll by my tolerant and long-suffering family members.) Even so, once in a while I find my metaphorical pants down around my ankles.

I'm the same guy who tows a 2500 pound trailer with a truck with a 6000 pound capacity, just because I like a big margin of safety. It's overkill, no doubt about it.
2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
Our trips -- pix and text
About our trailer
"A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single list."

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
The original "watts up" and the "Turnigy" power meters both for the RC plane hobbyist are very accurate, and durable, they have to be..

Now the $10 eBay clones ? IDK ?
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

jrnymn7
Explorer
Explorer
Mine seem to like a little steak spice.:)

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Name of new battery babying...

SEASONING

Better than stumbling over words...

landyacht318
Explorer
Explorer
Niner, the screwy 31 has not given up yet. It powered a ARB fridge 24 AH's worth, over 45 hours, and just took 45 amps initially from a new PD9245.

Profdant, I bought a cheap Ammeter voltmeter combo with included shunt. It just arrived today.

I hooked it to the 24 Ah depleted screwy 31 and then plugged in the PD9245. While the Ammeter/Vmeter combo has two calibration pots, I found they were already accurate on Volts and Amps.

http://www.amazon.com/DROK-4-5-30V-Digital-Display-Current/dp/B00GLKQOKI/ref=pd_sim_469_5?ie=UTF8&re...

Another way to tell amp flow is with a clamp on Ammeter. One need not open the circuit as needed with a digital multimeter, just clamp the meter over one wire.

I use the Sears clamp on ammeter.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-digital-clamp-on-ammeter/p-03482369000P clamp on ammeter.

The RC Wattmeter Niner linked is a clone of the 'watts up' meter. I have two of them, One mounted to my Meanwell power supply. Do note that they have thin leads and the 100 amp rating or the 130 amp ratings are for short bursts only

I removed the 12 awg aluminum leads and soldered on 8awg leads instead, and use 45 amp anderson Powerpoles. Hardly 100% accurate, I'd say 85% to 95%, but a great tool for monitoring, and counting, current, flowing in one direction.

I use the GTpower watt meter clone:

http://www.amazon.com/GT-Power-Analyzer-Consumption-Performance/dp/B00C1BZSYO

I'd not pass more than 45 amps through it continuously, and only if the 12awg is upgraded. No more than 25 amps continuous without modification and perhaps that is generous.

LenSatic
Explorer
Explorer
Uh, Dan, you may be over thinking this. We've both got small TTs but you have much larger battery capacity than we do. We have one type 27 and the 45w Harbor Freight solar panels. I hook them up and move them twice a day. I don't worry about amps, angles, or even shade. I'm just camping. If I fall short, I fire up the Honda, but that really only happens when we use the A/C.

Just go camping! You'll be fine. ๐Ÿ˜‰

LS
2008 Casita SD 17
2006 Chevy Tahoe LT 4x4
2009 Akita Inu
1956 Wife
1950 LenSatic

profdant139
Explorer II
Explorer II
Is there a way to do this with an ordinary multimeter without buying another device? I don't really need to monitor amp-hours, at least not yet -- I just want to see how many amps the panel is jamming into the battery at any particular time. I can then roughly extrapolate total amp-hours, even though I know that the peak level can't be sustained all day. Also, if there were a way to monitor amps, I could fine-tune my positioning of the portable panel.
2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
Our trips -- pix and text
About our trailer
"A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single list."

NinerBikes
Explorer
Explorer
profdant139 wrote:
How can you tell how many amps the battery is taking? I know how to use a multimeter to measure the draw of an appliance -- is that the same technique? Sorry for the naive question.


Put it inline on the output side of the charge controller, and a switch so you can reset it to zero every morning. Or disconnect clamp from battery when sun sets at night and reattach in the morning. It does count amp hours in the lower left hand corner readout.
RC watt meter

profdant139
Explorer II
Explorer II
How can you tell how many amps the battery is taking? I know how to use a multimeter to measure the draw of an appliance -- is that the same technique? Sorry for the naive question.
2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
Our trips -- pix and text
About our trailer
"A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single list."

NinerBikes
Explorer
Explorer
landyacht318 wrote:
That is the plan. Now taking 1.82a @ 14.40v


Did the Screwy31 give up the ghost or short out?

landyacht318
Explorer
Explorer
That is the plan. Now taking 1.82a @ 14.40v

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
You -could- if you want to, follow the Concorde's Manual recipe to charge battery at 14.4 volts until current reduces to point five amperes, then terminate the charge.

After 24-hours see where the resting voltage sits.

landyacht318
Explorer
Explorer
Ok, battery was just delivered.

He said he just picked it up from the West Covina distributor. Not sure if they manufacture them there, forgot to ask.
It was not sitting on a shelf in stock at his warehouse. He says he rarely gets requests for the 125 AH group31, usually just the 105AH.

It read 13.00 volts on my DMM, case temp 72f

I put it on my Meanwell rsp-500-15 at 13.4v 8 amps tapered to 1.5a in about 2 minutes.
Bumped voltage to 14.4v, 8 amps tapered to 3.5 in about a minute.

The guy came and took a look at my system. He thought the MeanWell rsp-500-15 with the 10 turn potentiometer and Wattmeter in line on the output was awesome. When I told him it can do 40 amps, further surprise.

He also talked about some new but blemished case Deka intimidators he was selling for excellent prices. But i got my heart set on a t-1275 for my own system.

He says he often gets requests by people who want a secondary battery system and solar installed in their vehicles and asked if he could send them my way.

Niner, I was more asking about the initial conditioning charge. I've read the Lifeline PDF Bible many times and insert links to it often.

Now taking 2.5 amps at 14.4v.