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Converters and generators

ZZSPIRAL1
Explorer
Explorer
I have a WFCO Ultra III (WF-8955) converter that requires 950W of input. I'm surprised it takes that much power to run, but maybe I'm missing something. Apparantly a 1000W generator won't provide enough power, which makes sense, because they're rated 900W. I have a Yamaha 2000W generator, but I like the idea of using a 1000W generator, because they're nearly 20 pounds lighter, less DBA and run longer on a tank.

I understand the converter can be switched out for one that requires less power. What's your recommendation, and what would you expect to pay someone to switch it out? What's the downside of a smaller converter?

I'm a DIY type, but when it comes to power I run the other way.


Thank you.
43 REPLIES 43

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Phil here ya go--where it says power factor converter ๐Ÿ™‚

http://powermaxconverters.com/pm412volt.html

If the non PF corrected are like others at 0.7 PF then that 780 would be an 1,114VA draw

Note Randy has his own versions like a 60 where he says no more 55s. It is very confusing! IMO ask many pointy questions about exact features from where you buy.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
OK ... I give up.

I'm usually pretty good at hacking around on the Internet, but this time I guess I didn't have enough cups of java: Where are you guys reading on the PowerMax link above that some of their units have PFC??

What I did notice however, is that the 55 amp PM3-55-MBA model, with it's maximum continuous power of 780 watts at >85% efficiency, just might be able to be fully powered from a little Honda 1000i generator. Wouldn't that be a sweet combination -> a 55 amp multi-stage charger being powered via the smallest Honda inverter generator!
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
The older PM3s, still for sale, do not go into boost every time, but act more like a WFCO, needed a low battery first. The PM4s have that different, act more like an Iota.

The 75 ampers and on up have PF correction in all versions so that they can still use a 15a circuit. It also helps with reducing gen VA amount compared with same amp, non PF corrected.

This website is complicated, but to get the info, you need to check the pdf part of each section

http://powermaxconverters.com/
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

mena661
Explorer
Explorer
pnichols wrote:
Note that Powermax converter/chargers do not have PFC (power factor correction) circuitry.
The Powermax Boondocker series do. They're deckmount converters not the drop in replacements though.

http://www.bestconverter.com/PowerMax-Boondocker-Converters-_c_154.html

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
Note that Powermax converter/chargers do not have PFC (power factor correction) circuitry.

To run absolutely the highest amperage converter/charger possible on a 1000 VA ("watt") generator, PFC in the converter/charger would be helpful. Perhaps one could fully power even a 45 amp converter/charger with that size generator if the converter/charger came with PFC.
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

mena661
Explorer
Explorer
pkunk wrote:
I don't understand why no one has recommended the Powermax Boondocker converter charger. They readily go into boost, are a 4 stage charger, and the 35 amp would likely run on the 1000w genset
BFL has one and he and smk recommend them quite often.

pkunk
Explorer
Explorer
I don't understand why no one has recommended the Powermax Boondocker converter charger. They readily go into boost, are a 4 stage charger, and the 35 amp would likely run on the 1000w genset
1999 Coachman Mirada 34 ft.V10-F53 chassis
12ft.LR slide-2 gp31 AGM 12V @220AH

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
Since the 1000/2000 Hondas will be near 59 dB loudness when warming up out of Eco mode and only around 53 dB loudness when warming up in Eco mode, it may be more camping-friendly to use Eco mode warmups.
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

NinerBikes
Explorer
Explorer
MrWizard wrote:
i don't understand why people can't do a no load 2 minute warm up ECON off,
plug in the load, then switch Econ on

its lot easier on the genset, there is little noise in a NO LOAD warm up,
and the genset takes the load so much easier with econ OFF, then throttle down to econ mode


I would agree with not having it in Eco mode when you plug in, but you do want the motor to warm up at lower rpm's, until the tolerances between the piston and bore are taken up by the expansion factor of heat on the piston and lessened piston slap, when the motor is cold. Running a motor faster, at higher rpm, when it is cold and not warmed up is not good, you get more contaminants from blow by in the motor oil. Once warmed up, and you can know it just by putting your hand on the fan exhaust side and feel heat coming off the motor, take it out of Eco mode,plug in, then reinstate eco mode and call it good. Then you can hope your "bulk" charge mode is working, if you have a WFCO 8955, like me.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Mr Wiz is right about gen starting procedure. I forget sometimes with all the other set-up things I do then. I do have a sequence for starting the chargers, so the lower voltage one(s) get running first. (except if it is the converter, which goes on last) --if I remember to do that right ๐Ÿ˜ž
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
BFL13.. do you start with all plugged in? I would think you just plug in the four chargers at about 5 second intervals and be fine.

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
i don't understand why people can't do a no load 2 minute warm up ECON off,
plug in the load, then switch Econ on

its lot easier on the genset, there is little noise in a NO LOAD warm up,
and the genset takes the load so much easier with econ OFF, then throttle down to econ mode
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have to let the Honda 3000 warm up a bit first too if it is to start off with a big load in eco
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

NinerBikes
Explorer
Explorer
RJsfishin wrote:
BFL13 wrote:
RJ it turns on my definition of "forever" I did not say a 45a charger would not run on the 1000w Honda. The OP had a 55a.

How long forever lasts depends on how big the bank is in AH and how low it starts at on the recharge and how high you want to get it to.


My PD 45 will charge faster than the OPs 55 amp WFCO that never sees 14 volts. So I didn't know why you would say that.

I used to charge w/ a PD55 amp, and I don't notice the difference.

But, at any rate, the Honda 1000 will charge batteries plenty fast on 45 amps. The 1000 is smaller and lighter, and quieter once the amperage get down to 30 amps and less.


I think I have to get below 50% on the battery to get the WFCO charging in bulk mode. It's pretty obvious, I start the generator up, warm it up for about 2 minutes in eco mode, plug in the 30 amp plug, and the motor grunts pretty good and loud, it's working hard by the sound of the exhaust, for 5-15 minutes on my single 24 DC 75AH battery. Due to this extreme load, it's why I always warm the little Honda up for 2 minutes before plugging anything in to it. It needs the warm up period before working it hard.