Cooling bedroom

[vandave]

Like many with only one a/c I need my bedroom cooler. Any one done a modification or found a way to cool the bedroom more? I have a fan to pull air from the front area and keep one vent closed on the a/c unit to try and distribute more a/c to the back. 2017 Winnebago. The floor design was what we needed for my disabled spouse. 30 amp and not framed for an additional roof a/c unit. Wondering if there is a small swamp unit that might work. Thanks for any replies.

[LarryJM]

vandave wrote:
Like many with only one a/c I need my bedroom cooler. Any one done a modification or found a way to cool the bedroom more? I have a fan to pull air from the front area and keep one vent closed on the a/c unit to try and distribute more a/c to the back. 2017 Winnebago. The floor design was what we needed for my disabled spouse. 30 amp and not framed for an additional roof a/c unit. Wondering if there is a small swamp unit that might work. Thanks for any replies.

I solved all my A/C issues which was mainly not being able to cool the front of the trailer during very hot weather by adding extra ceiling register/vents doubling the number that were there originally. I now have 4 vs. 2 in the bedroom with the two that I added being at the end of the bedroom closest to the A/C unit. I also added one vent very close to the bedroom door in the hall and for the main living area I installed two one in each duct right at the junction of the main A/C plenum with the main duct on each side. You need to have a certain number of registers/vents open for the A/C to operate at max efficiency and the original number would not allow me to close any vents in attempting to direct the cooling to various areas of the interior w/o violating the min vents needed. This was a simple mod since my ducting is formed in the foam type insulation in the roof and not by actual ducting.

The two extra register/vents at the junction of the main A/C plenum and each main duct really solved the main living area cooling since my A/C doesn't have a main air plenum dump/vent option and those two extra register/vents I added really put out the cold air when needed.

Even so in really hot weather a fan or fans are a great way to move things around and get everywhere to some reasonably constant and uniform temp throughout the trailer.

Larry

[wopachop]

Ive been trying to brainstorm this as well. Little different setup than yours but the idea is the same. How to get cold air to the area that is warm.

Is $40 in materials reasonable? Do you care if 4" flexible ducting is hanging from your ceiling?

One idea is to use a 4" blower fan matched with 4" ducting. You can either suck hot air, or blow cool air.

The easy option is let the ducting sit on the floor. Blow cold air to where you want.

I wonder if the more effective option would be to suck the hot air out. You would have flexible ducting hanging from your ceiling. The blower would suck the hot air out of your bedroom, and blow it towards your a/c unit. YOu could even have the flexible ducting terminate right into the intake of your a/c.

That would evacuate hot air from the bedroom while sucking in cold air from the main room.

I dont think closing a vent is helping. Keep all vents open so the a/c can breath. Use fans to circulate the air.

[vandave]

Thanks for the replies. I'm going to try mounting a small battery operated fans over the vent holes to see if that will pull more air.

[time2roll]

vandave wrote:
The floor design was what we needed for my disabled spouse. 30 amp and not framed for an additional roof a/c unit.

I would have the work quoted. Mobile repair person might be lower cost than the dealer. May not be as much as you think.

OK to get a smaller unit (9000 btu?) and possibly run both on 30 amps. Worst case switch to the bedroom unit when needed.

[wa8yxm]

They are currently advertising a small "Swamp COoler" (Artic air) on TV. Don't know how good it is. Bit pricey for what they offer but ...

https://www.walmart.com/ip/As-Seen-on-TV-Arctic-Air-Cooler/601533073

Wal-mart has one for 49.95 I think you get 2 for a few dollars more on tv

[MrWizard]

maybe a small ? portable A/C unit ?
or maybe use an aluminum plate (4ft * 4ft) on the roof as a support platform to spread the weight
14" sq hole in the middle,
mount a 9000BTU polar cub roof top A/C unit up there ?

i grew up back there in the Ohio valley along the Ohio river
too much humidity for a swamp cooler

[Son_of_Norway]

I recently did a modification so I can run both of my AC's together now, but before that I had a small window AC unit that I bought off Craigslist. I made a mount for it and put it in one of my rear bedroom windows. That one and the front AC kept my HR very comfortable.

[j-d]

Swamp Cooler's only going to work in low humidity areas.
Are your A/C DUCTS OK? Pull your grilles and look both ways with flashlight and mirror. You may find disconnects, non-connects, bad baffling at the main A/C unit, etc. If you can get on the roof maybe you'd find cool spots indicating duct leaks.
If you're camping in the sun, you MUST cover the windshield, maybe shade or film the side windows. I suspect that full wall slide has more heat loss than smaller or no slides.
We camp in the FL summer in our 31-ft Class C, often in beach areas with no shade. We isolate our "Van Nose" with blankets, run fans, have tinted windows, and our 15000 A/C runs full time in the daylight. Will cycle at night. We have to shed electrical load to run that A/C constantly. Water Heater on LPG, Coffee OR Toast not both, all small appliances OFF to run Microwave. Our A/C is NOT ducted. Distribution isn't all that great, it's noisy, but we don't have any ducting losses.