Forum Discussion

Almot's avatar
Almot
Explorer III
Jul 11, 2014

Corrosive environment and conductive grease?

Hopefully Mexicowonderer will chime in. I don't like bothering people with PM, but if Mex isn't reading now, I'll have to :)

I have aluminum bus bars where plated set screws got stuck to the bar right from the warehouse. Have managed to loosen them, as written in another thread.

How to prevent this from happening again? Close to the sea the corrosion starts easily. Aluminum itself is prone to etching when in corrosive environment. It's a small 1" bar, screw size #8, if it gets stuck again, a screwdriver will destroy them when I try to loosen them up.

Any good CONDUCTIVE grease? There are some in stores, but I guess they are not all created equal.

Also, - any thoughts on replacing screws with stainless?
  • Almot's avatar
    Almot
    Explorer III
    Thanks.

    There are few different Never Seez- which one?

    Boshield T9 I have. It's a not a lubricant but a paraffin wax, it leaves a dry protective coat on aluminum. Prevents seizing, yes.

    Have a silicone dielectric grease too.

    MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
    Aluminum should be shined brilliant then coated almost instantly afterward with protector compound. Once aluminum oxide starts to form it does not stop.

    Yes, this is when they do anodizing coat - cleaning thoroughly and coating immediately. I hope you didn't mean to recommend this with those lubricants?

    Btw, it has just crossed my mind that aluminum bar was tinned - that's why it became dark after heating at 500F to loosen the screws. Well, dark tin is still tin.

    Yes, I know that SS and Al are more dissimilar than plated steel and Al, I guess it won't do much good.
  • Used stainless and aluminum with Never Seize for years with zero problems. About as far from the surf as a person can throw a chihuahua.
  • Dielectric grease is what you want. Conductive grease is used for heat sink application to wick heat away from sensitive devices. Don't go to stainless for the screws, you set up a whole different problem with dissimilar metals.
  • With a toothpick dab a minute quantity of genuine (aluminum) NEVER SEIZE onto the threads of each set screw. Smear it around to cover the entire threads. To protect the completed assembly I use a coat of ANHYDROUS LANOLIN which comes in a jar available at your local pharmacy. It works far better and far longer than the commercial al/cu stuff at the hardware store.

    You have to be careful with the combination of aluminum (tin coated) and copper. Some compounds react negatively. Charging what NoOx does for stupid cosmoline is a crime.

    Aluminum should be shined brilliant then coated almost instantly afterward with protector compound. Once aluminum oxide starts to form it does not stop. One of these days they are going to get smart and start flashing critical aluminum parts with gold. Get the Au out of the hands of speculators.

    I learned a lot having a hotel within 50 meters of the crashing tropical (28c) Pacific Ocean surf. The school of the hardest knocks.

    You cannot do this with aluminum but with brass or copper, coating the material with 100% Pb (lead) is the cheapest way to make things last. Tin sucks. It is barely better than bare copper.

    But where steel threads into aluminum my experience is Never Seize has no peer.
  • You could even go further with this and coat the bare wire ends with a copper-based electrical conductive paste.
    That lekrotech looks like the real deal. I've heard Boeshield works pretty good, too.

About Technical Issues

Having RV issues? Connect with others who have been in your shoes.24,190 PostsLatest Activity: Jan 23, 2025