โMar-11-2015 10:07 AM
โMar-12-2015 01:42 PM
โMar-12-2015 01:32 PM
โMar-12-2015 10:57 AM
โMar-12-2015 10:29 AM
โMar-11-2015 02:38 PM
โMar-11-2015 02:05 PM
โMar-11-2015 12:40 PM
vlopddap wrote:
Okay, if I choose to not scrap the entire Dicor to bare metal, should I use any kind of mildew remover (bleach based) and after a in-depth cleaning just reapply a coat of Dicor over??
As some people told, there's no leak at this point... I'll take some picture of my caulk tonight at home, you'll be able to see exactly the state of the caulk.
โMar-11-2015 12:27 PM
โMar-11-2015 12:23 PM
Cloud Dancer wrote:
To do right,....IMO, will take many hours of hard work. Let me reword, to do it my way would take a long time. And, it wouldn't be easy. This always puts me in a big dilemma. I can't depend on shop personnel to do it right, and that's why I end up doing it myself. Well, that and the expense.
Try and find someone with RV roof experience, and ask them how they would do it.
โMar-11-2015 12:03 PM
โMar-11-2015 11:59 AM
โMar-11-2015 11:41 AM
Fiverwheel wrote:
On a one piece roof all there is to reseal is around your vents and along the edges. Eternabond is the quickest, most effective and longest lasting fix. There are instructional videos on YouTube that should set your mind at ease as to the process.
โMar-11-2015 11:34 AM
โMar-11-2015 11:10 AM
Blackdiamond wrote:
If you can do mechanical/electrical you can seal the roof, A dealer is just going to have the guy he pays the cheapest hourly rate go up there with a putty knife, scrape off some of the old and put some new dicor over it. They are not going to take a highly skilled tech (expensive) and put them on a roof for a job any unskilled laborer can do.
I would go a different route and use eternabond