Dealing with rotted studs and flooring

[Shomemule]

Hi all,
I have an older 1996 vintage travel trailer with a slide ( I just bought it). It has had a leak in the left front corner seam that has pretty much rotted a few feet of the floor and several studs in the front bedroom.
What should I use for floor material? It has particle board but I was thinking of replacing it with plywood.
How do I make up the curve in the front with the studs?
How are the studs attached to the aluminum siding.
The rot is inside the front closet but it seems like the closet is screwed on from the outside in. Any hints on how I deal with that?
All advice is appreciated. I'm pretty handy but maybe I got in over my head here. I do have photos to send to anyone who is interested in helping.

[Shomemule]

Thanks to all for the great advice and comments. I think I'm good to go on this project.

[Almot]

Shomemule wrote:
I guess my biggest challenge is securing the new framing to the aluminum siding. I can remove the old from the siding with a sawzall but I'm not sure how I'll secure the new since the studs are screwed from the outside in. Construction adhesive is one alternative but I'm not sure how well it will adhere to the aluminum.

I don't understand why driving the screws from the outside is a problem. In my wooden-frame trailer the aluminum siding is attached to the framing from the outside. And in not too many places, because it's mostly held in place with S-locks. The siding sheets are 2-3 ft wide (from bottom to top) and have S-lock at the top. The topmost sheet is attached first - yes, it may have screws into the frame near the roof. Then the lower sheet goes under, overlapping by about half-inch, and is held in the S-lock, no screws. Then another one, and the bottom-most sheet has both S-lock at the top and a few screws along the bottom frame, 3 or 4 ft between the screws (can be spaced closer where there are lids, hatches etc).

To remove the siding, you start from the bottom-most sheet and work your way up.

I agree with most other people that unless you really love this trailer and are willing to spend all summer on it, or maybe are on a a limited budget - forget about it. Judging by the words like "front bathroom" it looks like a pretty big rig, so a new one would cost over 18K.

Getting a trailer with metal framing - yeah, well, maybe... The problem is that with metal frame you will also get - usually - a much cursed fiberglass siding with block-foam insulation. Let's not open this can of worms right now, this debate has been going forever.

[westend]

Shomemule wrote:

westend wrote:
You can do it and don't let the armchair engineers tell you not to. I'm assuming throwing away an otherwise serviceable RV is not the way you want to proceed.

Look at the build thread in my signature line, the Cowboy/Hilton. I replaced frame and flooring and it is all pictured there. If you have a particular question, let it fly or shoot me a PM.

Thanks westend. I guess my biggest challenge is securing the new framing to the aluminum siding. I can remove the old from the siding with a sawzall but I'm not sure how I'll secure the new since the studs are screwed from the outside in. Construction adhesive is one alternative but I'm not sure how well it will adhere to the aluminum.

Most aluminum siding on Rv's is not fastened to every framing member. If you have a bad corner section, remove the trim rail that covers the corner, remove staples or screws that fasten the siding to the studs. Remove siding by removing screws or staples that fasten it to studs, top plate, and bottom sill.

I think you'll find that the floor sheathing is underneath the wall. With judicious use of a sawzall, grinder, or a small reciprocating saw, I was able to remove fasteners that attach the wall bottom sill to the frame. I then slid new sections of plywood floor underneath the wall framing and reattached the wall through the new floor. I also replaced some floor joists and sistered new joists underneath any new floor joints that I created. While I was pulling floor, I insulated the open space between joists with foam sheets.

Construction adhesive like PL400 or Liquid Nails should be your new best friend. It sticks to anything clean and I used some in every joint of the framing I replaced. It helps to hold everything together when the trailer is in motion.

[Pogoil]

You can do the job with simple reasoning and basic carpenter skills.
Take your time and start tearing it apart. When done it will be like new for far less than getting another trailer.

Pogoil.

[Dr_Quick]

I have rebuilt 3 trailers with water rot problems.

(As far as any new floor material, I would go with exterior grade/sheathing plywood as it uses waterproof glue)

How do I make up the curve in the front with the studs? (You may have to use something like a 2x10 ETC. and use a saber saw to cut a curved shape)

How are the studs attached to the aluminum siding.(Aluminum siding is installed from the top down. Where there is a seam, top alum piece has a leg that extends down the back side, and it is secured to stud. Then next piece of siding is slid into a slot and secured the same way. If you need to take siding off, you will have to start from the bottom, remove all items on side of RV to get siding off to nearest joint, if there is one)

The rot is inside the front closet but it seems like the closet is screwed on from the outside in. Any hints on how I deal with that? ( Yes that is correct as one fellow said closet was probably secured from the outside through interior paneling. Or sometimes it is secured from the inside before paneling is installed on closet walls. In which case you can take off paneling and take out screws to remove closet. You could try using a hack saw blade from inside the closet to slip between closet and outside wall to cut screws, so as not to damage visible paneling)

If you want to send me a PM I will try to help more.

[BurbMan]

You have to remove the siding from the outside, then re-frame, then re-attach the siding to the new framing.

[Shomemule]

westend wrote:
You can do it and don't let the armchair engineers tell you not to. I'm assuming throwing away an otherwise serviceable RV is not the way you want to proceed.

Look at the build thread in my signature line, the Cowboy/Hilton. I replaced frame and flooring and it is all pictured there. If you have a particular question, let it fly or shoot me a PM.

Thanks westend. I guess my biggest challenge is securing the new framing to the aluminum siding. I can remove the old from the siding with a sawzall but I'm not sure how I'll secure the new since the studs are screwed from the outside in. Construction adhesive is one alternative but I'm not sure how well it will adhere to the aluminum.

[westend]

You can do it and don't let the armchair engineers tell you not to. I'm assuming throwing away an otherwise serviceable RV is not the way you want to proceed.

Look at the build thread in my signature line, the Cowboy/Hilton. I replaced frame and flooring and it is all pictured there. If you have a particular question, let it fly or shoot me a PM.

[John_Joey]

mlts22 wrote:
Unless you are in love with -that particular camper-, I'd say forget it. One can spend the same amount of money and buy a new or used camper in decent shape... and then spend time camping, not replacing moldy wood.

If one wanted a DIY project to learn on, it is an idea, but it will be very time consuming.

X2

The next one make sure is made with metal tubing and not wood studs. Also check the roof for any leaks both new and repaired. Chock this one up to a learning experience

The questions you are asking tell me that you're not really a carpenter. If you have your heart set on rebuilding this rig then go for it, otherwise walkaway before you start throwing good money after bad.

[mlts22]

Unless you are in love with -that particular camper-, I'd say forget it. One can spend the same amount of money and buy a new or used camper in decent shape... and then spend time camping, not replacing moldy wood.

If one wanted a DIY project to learn on, it is an idea, but it will be very time consuming.

[romore]

I am into a similar project in a fiver. I an replacing the framing with D-Fir studs and particle board flooring, half the price of plywood. Take it back far enough to remove all the rot and start from there.

[path1]

However much time you think it will take to fix, TRIPPLE it!

[CA_Traveler]

Post pictures. Curves are easy to make. Use a very thin piece of veneer or wood strip, perhaps exoxy it in and use braces until dry. Add another layer glued to the first in held in place by braces. Keep at it a layer at a time. Basically you're building plywood a layer at a time and it's curved.

Or make paper or cardboard patterns as a guide.

[doxiemom11]

Seems you are getting a lot of help.... I can't help, but I have read many posts regarding this type of thing and do know that there are some u-tube videos out there with repair advice. There are probably some old threads, maybe with photos under the Do It Yourself Modifications on the forum.