Dexter bearing adjustment procedure

[Timeking]

I totally get NOT using the EZlube fitting (ruined some brakes), Timken parts, and annual service. What I don't get is the conflicting methods being used to set the zero backlash on the bearing, i.e., 0.001 to 0.005 clearance.

My previous trailer had Alko axles, and I adjusted the bearing per Alko recommendations: rotate and tighten to 20 ft-lbs, loosen nut without motion, tighten to 8 ft lbs, back off one castellation, stick the pin in. Never had a problem in 60,000 miles.

My 2018 Rockwood has Dexter axles. Dexter says to rotate and tighten to 50 ft-lbs, loosen the nut, and then "hand tighten" the nut and back off a bit. What kind of procedure is that? Hand tighten?

If you go on Youtube, people are doing all sorts of crazy stuff, everything from tighten by hand and back off a full quarter rotation.

The Alko method seems scientific, the Dexter method seems weird, and many of the Youtube ideas will cause a failure I'm sure.

So .... from someone who has actually done this several times, and has gone 10's of thousands of miles ... how are you doing it?

PS: Dexter didn't see fit to install brake adjustment hole dust plugs which causes me concern for their commitment to quality.

[Timeking]

As to the procedure: these Dexter's have no castellated nut, just a spring clip. Tightening to 50 lbs with torque wrench was pretty scary. I then loosened the nut and hand tightened, and had to back off something like a 12th of a rotation to get the clip back on (one spot back on a castellated nut is 1/6th rotation, so tighter). Per the Dexter procedure, I could still wiggle the nut and clip back and forth a bit. I think that Dexter's procedure is shooting for something close to a pre-load like used on semi trailers (google it). The wheel turned freely, so I guess I did it right.

As to the absent plugs: There was an AWFUL amount of "brake dust" in there. More than I have ever seen previously. One brake looked like it might have been jammed up from all the "dust(?)", but when cleaned with brake cleaner, it moved freely as expected. There was also evidence of rust spots on all the drums, some more than others, but doing the spin test, the brakes worked fine. My conclusion: not having plugs in there let water and road debris into the brake where it was ground up and caused rust. I bought rubber plugs from Amazon (everywhere else only had hard plastic plugs).

This brand new trailer was dragged from Ohio back to Florida, over to Sarasota to dodge the 2016 hurricane, then back to AL and MS to run away from 2017 hurricane, then back to NC, TN, VA trying to get away from Florence and Michael. So much for climate change denial (been in FL since 1961). So some miles, but not as much as going to OR and WA from FL, and there wasn't anywhere near the amount of brake "dust" after that. Plus no rust.

[fj12ryder]

Ron3rd wrote:

Timeking wrote:
That gives me a bit of assurance. When I first had a TT back in 2007, I paid a mechanic to repack my bearings ... and everyone of them failed. Spent hours and hours pounding all the races out and re-seating. Don't ever want to go through that again.

They all failed because he was a know-it-all expert mechanic in his mind and set the bearings too tight and did not follow the Dexter procedure. A tight bearing will burn up quickly; a slightly loose bearing will not.

Yes a tight bearing will bind and heat up and go south...but you have no idea what that "mechanic" did. You weren't there, and you're simply speculating, but you sound a lot like "a know-it-all expert mechanic in his mind". You might want to put an "I imagine" in there somewhere.

[Ron3rd]

Timeking wrote:
That gives me a bit of assurance. When I first had a TT back in 2007, I paid a mechanic to repack my bearings ... and everyone of them failed. Spent hours and hours pounding all the races out and re-seating. Don't ever want to go through that again.

They all failed because he was a know-it-all expert mechanic in his mind and set the bearings too tight and did not follow the Dexter procedure. A tight bearing will burn up quickly; a slightly loose bearing will not.

[Ron3rd]

Timeking wrote:
I totally get NOT using the EZlube fitting (ruined some brakes), Timken parts, and annual service. What I don't get is the conflicting methods being used to set the zero backlash on the bearing, i.e., 0.001 to 0.005 clearance.

My previous trailer had Alko axles, and I adjusted the bearing per Alko recommendations: rotate and tighten to 20 ft-lbs, loosen nut without motion, tighten to 8 ft lbs, back off one castellation, stick the pin in. Never had a problem in 60,000 miles.

My 2018 Rockwood has Dexter axles. Dexter says to rotate and tighten to 50 ft-lbs, loosen the nut, and then "hand tighten" the nut and back off a bit. What kind of procedure is that? Hand tighten?

If you go on Youtube, people are doing all sorts of crazy stuff, everything from tighten by hand and back off a full quarter rotation.

The Alko method seems scientific, the Dexter method seems weird, and many of the Youtube ideas will cause a failure I'm sure.

So .... from someone who has actually done this several times, and has gone 10's of thousands of miles ... how are you doing it?

PS: Dexter didn't see fit to install brake adjustment hole dust plugs which causes me concern for their commitment to quality.

The procedure you describe is correct (per the Dexter manual) and I've done it that way for years. You torque the nut to 50 lbs and rotate the wheel. These seats the bearing a forces out excess grease. Then you back the nut off to the next cotter pin hole. This allows the bearing to run very slightly "loose". Simple process actually.

[fj12ryder]

drsteve wrote:

CaLBaR wrote:

fj12ryder wrote:

Lynnmor wrote:

fj12ryder wrote:
That description sounds about how I do it. My auto-adjusting brakes don't have the dust plugs either. I guess they figure they're not necessary with auto-adjust brakes. Maybe that's why yours doesn't have the plugs?

Auto-adjust has even more parts inside to be fouled by road debris, go to an auto parts store and get the missing plugs.

When I stated there were no plugs, I meant there were no places for plugs, not that there were empty holes with no plugs installed. Sorry that I wasn't clearer on that point. At least I don't remember seeing any place for plugs to go. Perhaps I simply overlooked them. Happens more as I get older.

My self adjusting brakes on my 2018 GD Reflection have holes for plugs, just no plugs. Sometimes you still need to get in there to manually adjust them. Guess I should get some plugs to keep the debris out.

Rob

My Coachmen has the holes. I know this because the brakes were so loose from the factory that they barely worked, and I snugged them up when I got it home from the dealer.

I guess I shall have to check them this spring when I bring it home. I've only had the wheels/brakes apart once in 8 years and I didn't pay attention as to whether there were holes or plugs.

[drsteve]

CaLBaR wrote:

fj12ryder wrote:

Lynnmor wrote:

fj12ryder wrote:
That description sounds about how I do it. My auto-adjusting brakes don't have the dust plugs either. I guess they figure they're not necessary with auto-adjust brakes. Maybe that's why yours doesn't have the plugs?

Auto-adjust has even more parts inside to be fouled by road debris, go to an auto parts store and get the missing plugs.

When I stated there were no plugs, I meant there were no places for plugs, not that there were empty holes with no plugs installed. Sorry that I wasn't clearer on that point. At least I don't remember seeing any place for plugs to go. Perhaps I simply overlooked them. Happens more as I get older.

My self adjusting brakes on my 2018 GD Reflection have holes for plugs, just no plugs. Sometimes you still need to get in there to manually adjust them. Guess I should get some plugs to keep the debris out.

Rob

My Coachmen has the holes. I know this because the brakes were so loose from the factory that they barely worked, and I snugged them up when I got it home from the dealer.

[CaLBaR]

fj12ryder wrote:

Lynnmor wrote:

fj12ryder wrote:
That description sounds about how I do it. My auto-adjusting brakes don't have the dust plugs either. I guess they figure they're not necessary with auto-adjust brakes. Maybe that's why yours doesn't have the plugs?

Auto-adjust has even more parts inside to be fouled by road debris, go to an auto parts store and get the missing plugs.

When I stated there were no plugs, I meant there were no places for plugs, not that there were empty holes with no plugs installed. Sorry that I wasn't clearer on that point. At least I don't remember seeing any place for plugs to go. Perhaps I simply overlooked them. Happens more as I get older.

My self adjusting brakes on my 2018 GD Reflection have holes for plugs, just no plugs. Sometimes you still need to get in there to manually adjust them. Guess I should get some plugs to keep the debris out.

Rob

[Ozlander]

donn0128 wrote:
That's basically the way I was taught back in the 60s. Never had a bearing problem in 40+ years

Yep.

[drsteve]

Lynnmor wrote:

fj12ryder wrote:
That description sounds about how I do it. My auto-adjusting brakes don't have the dust plugs either. I guess they figure they're not necessary with auto-adjust brakes. Maybe that's why yours doesn't have the plugs?

Auto-adjust has even more parts inside to be fouled by road debris, go to an auto parts store and get the missing plugs.

My 2018 Coachmen with self adjusting brakes doesn't have the plugs either.

[fj12ryder]

Lynnmor wrote:

fj12ryder wrote:
That description sounds about how I do it. My auto-adjusting brakes don't have the dust plugs either. I guess they figure they're not necessary with auto-adjust brakes. Maybe that's why yours doesn't have the plugs?

Auto-adjust has even more parts inside to be fouled by road debris, go to an auto parts store and get the missing plugs.

When I stated there were no plugs, I meant there were no places for plugs, not that there were empty holes with no plugs installed. Sorry that I wasn't clearer on that point. At least I don't remember seeing any place for plugs to go. Perhaps I simply overlooked them. Happens more as I get older.

[DustyR]

MFL wrote:
Dexter has been a fairly reputable company for many years. While one size does not fit all, the description from Dexter, for many RV axles sounds about right. Once the hub/bearings are set, about 50 lbs, the castle nut can be loosened, without moving the hub, finger tight, put pin through. If pin is not aligned at finger tight, it should be backed off slightly, until pin goes through.

You are correct, with so many folks doing things differently, seems like more bearing failures could be caused by incompetence, than lack of grease.

Most I've seen have dust plugs, unless removed and forgotten/left out by a previous owner.

Jerry

X-2

This method insures that the bearing/race combo is properly seated in the hub. Better slightly loose than too tight.

[Lynnmor]

fj12ryder wrote:
That description sounds about how I do it. My auto-adjusting brakes don't have the dust plugs either. I guess they figure they're not necessary with auto-adjust brakes. Maybe that's why yours doesn't have the plugs?

Auto-adjust has even more parts inside to be fouled by road debris, go to an auto parts store and get the missing plugs.

[MitchF150]

Yep, I've always done them that way.. Tighten them up (I don't use a torque wrench, just what feels right..) and then back off the nut and hand turn it until the cotter pin goes thru..

Give it a few spins and then feel if there is any 'play' in it and if it feels right, go to the next one..

Been doing that forever and so far so good!

Good luck!

Mitch

[fj12ryder]

That description sounds about how I do it. My auto-adjusting brakes don't have the dust plugs either. I guess they figure they're not necessary with auto-adjust brakes. Maybe that's why yours doesn't have the plugs?

[Timeking]

That gives me a bit of assurance. When I first had a TT back in 2007, I paid a mechanic to repack my bearings ... and everyone of them failed. Spent hours and hours pounding all the races out and re-seating. Don't ever want to go through that again.