Dodge sportsman vogue 77 electrical questions

Sneeblii wrote:
So these sportsmans generally didnt come with a solenoid switch that automatically isolates the batteries? Was the generator supposed to be used as a full time means of electricity?

If it came from the Mfg with two batteries
It came with something
A relay, a diode isolator, or a marine style battery switch

This item may have been removed or bypassed

IDK about vogue class c models
But their class A models were considered up scale coaches

Sneeblii wrote:
So these sportsmans generally didnt come with a solenoid switch that automatically isolates the batteries? Was the generator supposed to be used as a full time means of electricity?

Well, what you are dealing with is that span of time when RV electrical systems were still evolving. Some were more sophisticated and had good, multistage converters, a relay-based battery isolator, and a well executed 12V distribution panel. Most did not. My '71 Starcraft came with the PD-807 deck-mount power supply and a special accessory add-on circuit board that allowed for better charging (didn't boil out a battery, I assume). As things progressed, better converters started entering the market and bi-directional diode based battery isolators appeared.

The outline for checking battery voltages and charger function were posted. If you don't have an isolator between the starter battery and the RV's house battery, you can add in a solenoid relay next to the under-hood starter battery. It is not a terribly hard thing to install and will offer sure fire isolation without the voltage drop common to diode based isolators. Ask away, if interested.

FWIW, when I was rebuilding my '71 Starcraft, I decided to upgrade all of the electrical systems and installed solar charging. I knew I would be in on this for the long haul and solar has been one of the best improvements for ease and maintenance of batteries. The only thing I'd wish for now is more solar power and more batteries to store that "free" energy.

So these sportsmans generally didnt come with a solenoid switch that automatically isolates the batteries? Was the generator supposed to be used as a full time means of electricity?

MrWizard wrote:

if battery is ok, get a digital volt meter aka multimeter and check the voltage from the converter when plugged in

EVERY owner of an RV needs a voltmeter.
They can be had for $10 or less.

Sneeblii wrote:
I have a multimeter, how do I check the converters voltage? I know the previous owner used shore power and never had a problem, the battery could be old, he had not hooked it up.

There are literally thousands of post on here about battery use and care.
Quick summary:
When fully charged and no load applied, it should read at least 12.6 volts. Then sitting disconnected for 24 hours, it still should read at least 12.6. If the voltage drops off when disconnected.....it's bad.

When connected to a charger, it should read at least 13.6 volts......unless maybe the battery was TOTALLY DEAD and the charger is small.

But in this case, of the PO not ever hooking up the battery, you can probably safely assume that it's bad. You could check the water level and then connect it to an outboard automatic charger for about a week but that probably would just be a waste of time. Even if it came back up to voltage, it probably wouldn't come close to being reliable.

I have a multimeter, how do I check the converters voltage? I know the previous owner used shore power and never had a problem, the battery could be old, he had not hooked it up.

A corroded connection or terminal isn't good for anything. Clean it up. Your vehicle alternator has a regulator. A '77 Dodge product may still use a ceramic ballast (don't remember when they discontinued that). If you want to maintain the house battery and keep the chassis battery in good health, a battery isolator is the thing to have. It separates house and chassis battery so that the house battery won't drain the chassis battery, leaving your vehicle dead-in-the-water.

Measurements of voltage and what is being powered by what is necessary to diagnose electrical issues. Got meter?

NO regulator
there IS a 'converter' aka battery charger, it is behind the DC fuse panel
all part of ONE assembly, but usually removable form that box, when you take things apart

it charges the battery when you plug into shore power

battery hissing means bad battery, or the converter is bad and voltage is too high
in which case you just cooked the battery

unplug, remove battery , get it tested
if battery is ok, get a digital volt meter aka multimeter and check the voltage from the converter when plugged in

Also could a minimally corroded wire show similar signs of a bad voltage regulator?

I also was unable to find a switch that isolated the batteries completely but could that be due to the voltage regulator being bad?

Thanks everyone! So I hooked the battery up and it hissed after awhile. Where do I find the voltage regulator for the house battery?