ajriding wrote:
So, the compressor will keep running colder and colder and colder refrigerant if the temp sensor does not tell it to stop?
When the compressor cycles then the command is only from the temp sensor in the fresh air intake,there is no other sensors? Then I should be able to hold my fingers on the sensor to get it to kick on?
It has been a few years since the AC was run, probably 3.5 years. The capacitor is not the first thing i would think would just happen to go bad between start-ups coincidentally this time. How would I check the compressor locking up?
Yes, the compressor will run if you have continuous 120 power to the compressor, unless it overloads. Then the Overload switch will kick it out. Problem is, in 40 years I have never wanted/attempted to run a AC in subfreezing conditions. NO REASON TOO! And my shop will be at least 60 degrees in cold weather. You connect a AC amp meter and see what the amp draw is if and when the compressor tries to start. You need to make sure the BLUE wire in the 6 pin connector to the roof AC has 120 power when the tstat sends the signal. Doug