Hi, new here to the forum. One of my roof AC units quit. It doesn't do anything. I measured voltage on the board (115VAC) but nothing coming out of the board. The board has P/N 3312227.000 on it.Anyone have a schematic of the board or know how to troubleshoot this board?It seems like there may be a shortage on the board as no one seems to have one in stock. Any help is appreciated.

1. CCC22. You need to add more info3. Does the CCC2 show a display for BOTH Zones? Or does the AC that is inop has no Zone display?4. It is extremely RARE for a CCC2 wall tstat and upper AC board to be defective.5. The CONTROLS are 12 volt, NOT 120 volt. So, most common problem on CCC2 systems is lack of communication for the Inop Zone. AND, most common failure is corroded Communication cable quick connect ends. 6. The COM cables use RJ22 modular ends and use a standard 4 wire flat Phone TYPE cable. But NOT wired like a phone cable. You cannot use a standard prebuilt phone cable to test. The ends on a COM cable the wires are reversed.7. Most common failure of a Penguin COM cable is corrosion where the ends are plugged in, in front of the evaporator due to the moist environment. There are 2 COM wire cables plugged into the upper board. Then those 2 wires go about 18 inches and are connected with a quick connect splice at the evaporator area. IF when you check, I always cut off and replace the RJ11 connections(all of them on the zone). Takes 5 minutes and that removes a bad connection and usually the corrosion will be very evident. 8. BOTH roof AC units have this com cable between them. So you need to check the operating AV Com cables also. Usual connection is --Wall tstat to Zone 1, then a Com Cable to Zone 2. That is why each AC control boards have 2 Modular connections. Doug

Doug, thanks for the reply!1. CCC22. You need to add more infoOK. See below.3. Does the CCC2 show a display for BOTH Zones? Or does the AC that is inop has no Zone display?The inop is the 2nd AC on Zone 1. I have 2 Zones but 3 ACs. Display is normal.This is in a 2017 Cedar Creek.4. It is extremely RARE for a CCC2 wall tstat and upper AC board to be defective.I hope that is the case.5. The CONTROLS are 12 volt, NOT 120 volt. So, most common problem on CCC2 systems is lack of communication for the Inop Zone. AND, most common failure is corroded Communication cable quick connect ends.OK. I did see those. I will see if I can find them locally today. Might be tomorrow before I get them replaced due to rain here today.I also saw an unused wire with a connector. I think it was 2 wires in a plug. Is that likely for a remote temp sensor? I was always thinking it would be nice to put that unit on a separate zone.6. The COM cables use RJ22 modular ends and use a standard 4 wire flat Phone TYPE cable. But NOT wired like a phone cable. You cannot use a standard prebuilt phone cable to test. The ends on a COM cable the wires are reversed.OK.7. Most common failure of a Penguin COM cable is corrosion where the ends are plugged in, in front of the evaporator due to the moist environment. There are 2 COM wire cables plugged into the upper board. Then those 2 wires go about 18 inches and are connected with a quick connect splice at the evaporator area. IF when you check, I always cut off and replace the RJ11 connections(all of them on the zone). Takes 5 minutes and that removes a bad connection and usually the corrosion will be very evident.OK. Been a long time since I used any of those. I will see if I still have my tool. Any suggestions on connectors? Better ones to look for?8. BOTH roof AC units have this com cable between them. So you need to check the operating AV Com cables also. Usual connection is --Wall tstat to Zone 1, then a Com Cable to Zone 2. That is why each AC control boards have 2 Modular connections. DougSince I have 3 AC units, Are all 3 usually daisy chained together? I have 2 ACs on Zone 1 in the main living area. Zone 2 is bedroom.Are there diagrams anywhere that show this detail?Thank you much!

Doug, I tried to follow your description got a bit lost. Are there two cables one for each AC? Can he just swap those cables as a test before cutting and splicing a new end onto the existing cable?

3. Does the CCC2 show a display for BOTH Zones? Or does the AC that is inop has no Zone display?The inop is the 2nd AC on Zone 1. I have 2 Zones but 3 ACs. Display is normal.This is in a 2017 Cedar Creek.WRONG!. If you have 3 AC units you have 3 zones. So, if you do not have Zones 1/2/3 showing you have a problem. Usually when you have a 5th wheel, Zone 1 is the Main living room, BUT NOT always the case. ON each AC control board will be DIP switches. So, you flip the DIP switch for Zone 2 on 1 AC and DIP switch 3 for the third AC. Now, as a temp sensor. Ideally you have the remote sensors. BUT, if the CCC2 is located on a wall that will sense the interior temp for that Zone, IT can be a temp sensor and then you only have to run a remote temp sensors for the other zones. I have never seen or even know if you can connect 2 Dometic AC units together on one Zone. IF you do, then you get a COM error on the wall tstat. Since it sees 2 AC control boards. I have 25 years of servicing the Dometic CCC system, ever since it came out. Are you the original owner? YES, all 3 AC units are daisy chained. In my previous post, you would have a COM cable from the 2nd to 3rd AC unit.

I am the original owner. It has always been just 2 zones. And has worked this way since new.Yes the CCC2 does show both zones.When Zone 1 calls for cool, both units come on. When I only want 1 AC to come on in Zone 1, I flip the circuit breaker off. (Labeled AC3) I am pretty sure all Cedar Creeks are wired this way when they have 3 AC units. At least from 2016 to present.The DIP switch for this unit (2nd AC Zone 1) is set to EXT Stage.I figured they did it this way so they could use the Wall Thermostat for both ACs in Zone 1?I do have a remote sensor in the bedroom for Zone 2.I did find 2 inline RJ-11 couplers and some CRC Electronic cleaner today. I will replace them tomorrow and try first to clean the contacts on the RJ-11 connectors.

Dometic CCII Control Board for Penquin II | Good Sam Community

Roadgypsie2020
Explorer
Sep 27, 2022
I replaced all 6 couplers. Yes, I did see corrosion on the couplers and connectors in the Zone 1 Heat Pump.

I cleaned all of the remaining connectors. I did not replace any of them. They were clean and shiny after the cleaning. Toothbrush and CRC Electronic Cleaner.

It was strange after cleaning the connectors and replacing the couplers I went down and did another initialize but had the same symptoms. I guess it's possible the connectors may have still been a little wet from the cleaner.

Understand now regarding the board connections.

Crazy all of the wire connections inside the plenums. Seems like a pretty sloppy way to do things. Should have used some kind of moisture proof connectors. Funny how it is actually getting hard to find RJ-11's. I bought all my local Menard's had and also the last one at Walmart.

Heading to Talladega tomorrow so I will try the Zone 3 thing again when I get back.

Thanks again!
dougrainer
Nomad
Sep 26, 2022
EXT Stage Select - Two Air Conditioner/Heat Pump Units (Select Models) On 1 Zone
This system can be configured to run two air conditioner/heat
pump units using the same temperature set-point for controlling
the comfort level in one zone
One unit is designated as the primary stage and the other unit is
designated as the secondary stage. The power module boards in
both units will use the same DIP switch selection for the Zone
(for example, both will be set to Zone 2). On the unit designated
“secondary” the power module board DIP switch identified as
“Ext Stage” must be set to the ON position in order to configure
the power module board for the on-demand secondary stage
operation (in this example Zone 2 and Ext Stage DIP switches
are in the ON position). In this stage configuration, the CCC 2
thermostat temperature set-point will be used for both the primary and the secondary stage air conditioner/ heat pump. Only
one indoor temperature sensor is required for this configuration
and it must be installed in the power module board configured
as the primary control. The turn ON time for the compressors
and fans will be controlled to ensure that compressors on the
system start one-at-a-time. A minimum delay of 20 to 30 seconds is required between compressor starts
dougrainer
Nomad
Sep 26, 2022
https://www.dometic.com/assets/28/57/installation%20manual_62857.pdf

I assume you have this. Doug

file:///C:/Users/bcbea/Downloads/3311071.017_DometicRooftopACMechanicalComfortSingleZoneControl_SVM_AMER(en)_2012_01.pdf
dougrainer
Nomad
Sep 26, 2022
E1 is communication error, which you have fixed with the new modular connections. YES, Zone 1 is NOT listed and is the default Zone 1 for the Dometic system. The 2 COM cables for each AC control board. There is no preference at all. You can use either one. EACH does the same thing. Are you stating you did NOT see any corrosion on the ends you replaced? Remember, EACH AC, you have the 2 modular connections on the Control board, THEN BOTH those com cables go about 18 inches and then connect to the supplied unit a quick connect union. So, in your 3 AC system, you will have a total of 11 modular connections. Did you replace all 11? Some are NOT used, but need replaced anyway. Doug
Roadgypsie2020
Explorer
Sep 26, 2022
I just realized there is no Zone 1 Setting. I have been looking for Dometic Manuals that describe the EXT. stage setting but all that I have found just state Not Used On This Unit.
Roadgypsie2020
Explorer
Sep 26, 2022
Well more to the story. Around 5AM the AC shuts off. All of them with E1 error.

So I ended up replacing and cleaning all 3 units now with new couplers in all of them. After that I did an Initialize and it did not recognize any of the zones. Went up and put the Middle AC back on Ext. stage instead of Zone 3. Did another initialize and is working as was originally.

One other thing I did was swap the RJ-11 cables on the middle AC relay board because I think I may have swapped them. Not sure if it makes a difference?

Another observation was that the Blizzard Heat Pump only had Heat Pump and Furnace Dip switch settings on. No zone 1 or EXT. stage on. I figured one or the other would have been on?

So now I am a bit confused. I don't know if it was the RJ-11 couplers, the dip switch settings on the middle AC, or a swapped RJ-11 on the middle AC relay board that caused the issue this morning.

Any input is welcome!
Roadgypsie2020
Explorer
Sep 25, 2022
Our model is the Champagne 38EL. Rear living/Front bedroom.

The Blizzard 15K Heat Pump is now Zone 1 Rear. One Penguin II is in the center and now Zone 3 was EXT Stage of Zone 1. The 2nd Penguin II is in the Front bedroom and is Zone 2.
dougrainer
Nomad
Sep 25, 2022
The reason I suggested adding the remote interior temp sensor is to allow that 2nd ext unit to turn off and on, by sensing the actual temp of the area it is cooling. I also do not know what the problems may be by setting it at Zone 3, versus just an extension of Zone 1. If the 2 AC units were within 5 feet or less, than using the wall tstat may be best. I looked at a similar model Cedar Creek and it did show a middle AC, then all the way up front, the front AC and all the way at the back, the rear AC. Indeed 10 to 15 foot spacing. Is your front the LR or the Bedroom? Front to rear, which AC units are EXT? Doug
Roadgypsie2020
Explorer
Sep 25, 2022
Roughly 12-15 ft.
dougrainer
Nomad
Sep 24, 2022
Roadgypsie2020 wrote:
I guess I could do that but the wall thermostat is in the same room. It seems to work OK as is.

How close are those 2 AC units? Doug

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