Dometic fridge issue

[Katdaddy]

I went out a little while ago to check on the camper and found the fridge is warm. There is power to the unit, no ammonia smell or yellow dust anywhere. I switched over to gas and I have a flame but no noticeable cooling. How to proceed, please?
Model RM2652

[Katdaddy]

While searching earlier found a video suggesting bypassing controls to verify if cooling unit is working. Basically hooking heating unit up direct. I did this and the temp inside fridge hasn't budged. I am now convinced that the cooling unit is toast. I was hoping for something simple but no luck. Time for a new fridge. Has anyone replaced a unit themselves. This one is 13 years old. Is new unit direct replacement?
And, as always, thanks to everyone for your help.

[Z-Peller]

Pull the outside grill off back of fridge vent. Attached to the back of the fridge unit is a black plastic box with a couple of screws holding lid on. Open this box up and inside will be a couple of small glass buss fuses. Fridge will not work at all if the one controlling 12v is blown. Replace them both regardless, as it is sometimes hard to tell if a buss fuse is haywire. Not always blown, but coming apart.
This was my problem a few years back when my fridge would not work.

[jkwilson]

Katdaddy wrote:

jkwilson wrote:
The easiest check IMO is to get a power cord, crimp spade terminals on it to match the terminals on the electrical heating element, and plug that in in place of the refrigerator power cord. Let it run for a day. If it is cold, that proves the cooling unit works and your problem is on the control side.

But if that is the problem shouldn't it cool on gas?

Basically you aren’t getting any cooling. Could be because the cooling unit is bad or it could be because the control side of things isn’t working. Plugging it in will let you try to figure out if anything is working. You’ve got to narrow it down a step at a time.

[enblethen]

Did you look at the back?

[Katdaddy]

enblethen wrote:
I would suggest removing the circuit board and look at it closely for burnt areas. Arcing could have damaged more then just the 120 volt AC portion.

Circuit board does not appear to have damage.

[Katdaddy]

jkwilson wrote:
The easiest check IMO is to get a power cord, crimp spade terminals on it to match the terminals on the electrical heating element, and plug that in in place of the refrigerator power cord. Let it run for a day. If it is cold, that proves the cooling unit works and your problem is on the control side.

But if that is the problem shouldn't it cool on gas?

[jkwilson]

The easiest check IMO is to get a power cord, crimp spade terminals on it to match the terminals on the electrical heating element, and plug that in in place of the refrigerator power cord. Let it run for a day. If it is cold, that proves the cooling unit works and your problem is on the control side.

[enblethen]

I would suggest removing the circuit board and look at it closely for burnt areas. Arcing could have damaged more then just the 120 volt AC portion.

[Katdaddy]

Fridge has been running on gas since 3:30 yesterday afternoon. Only a 4 degree drop in temp this morning, and I think that has more to do with drop in outside temps than cooling of the unit. What to check next?

[ScottG]

If you don't have an OHM meter (a good investment) you could also disconnect the electric heating element and apply 120V directly to it. If it gets hot it's OK but if nothing happens, it's a gonner.

[donn0128]

Disconnect the heating element and using an ohm meter verify element. If it tests good then chances are your board is toast. There are a couple of fuses on the board. Possibly one is bad. If you determine the board is bad call dinosaur boards and order a new one.

[Katdaddy]

enblethen wrote:
Sounds like either the 120 volt element is bad, no 120 volt AC tounit or the circuit board.
Verify 120 volts AC is present at refer by testing receptacle with known good device.
AC present switch refer to AC and test output of the circuit board for 120 volts.
No 120 volts circuit board is bad. Replace with Dinosaur electronics after-market.

AC present, disconnect the two wires from circuit board. Test element for resistance. Should be somewhere around 20-30 ohms.( I think)

Thanks. I have verified power to the receptacle. Slowly moving forward.

[wa8yxm]

Ok, sounds like the electric element is not working. There is a suspect list and a very simple as well as more complex test procedures

First obtain a Kill-A-Watt meter set it to watts or amps and plug it into the fridge socket and the fridge into it (Fridge must be warm) note readings and turn on fridge. note readings (shod be drawing about 3 amps or 350 watts NOTE THE WORD ABOUT... give or take oh asy 20 percent. (300-500 watts is good)

Now the suspect list
Fuse on terminal board.. NOTE IF you have ELECTRIC detected by the control (That is the eyebrow says AC) fuse good

Next in sequence order (not suspect order) the control board and possiblyu addoitional fuses (Check all fuses in the black box) The relay on the control board .. the wires and connections (Major suspect) and the heat element.

Testing now needs a Multi-Meter set to 150 volts AC or Auto Range AC Volts look for 120vac to the heat element (IT's in the stack) IF present unplug (you can unlug there) verify ZERO on the element and then disconnect one wire. Measure RESISTANCE of element.. you are looking for like 1/3 ohm (.33333) give or take a bit. Manual will tell you exact.. If you get open circuit ELement is bad.

[enblethen]

Sounds like either the 120 volt element is bad, no 120 volt AC tounit or the circuit board.
Verify 120 volts AC is present at refer by testing receptacle with known good device.
AC present switch refer to AC and test output of the circuit board for 120 volts.
No 120 volts circuit board is bad. Replace with Dinosaur electronics after-market.

AC present, disconnect the two wires from circuit board. Test element for resistance. Should be somewhere around 20-30 ohms.( I think)