Dometic Fridge not cooling

JCat wrote:
Looks like the cooling unit is bad, so I will be ordering a Dometic RM1350MIMSS.

Wow what sticker shock $3000 to $3600 for a fridge not including install !

Thought space was an issue?

RM1350 is 4 1/4" taller and 2 1/16" deeper

For that kind of monies I would go residential with an inverter if dry camping. Or not worry about inverter if always on hookups.

That some serious cash for an absorption fridge.
Just remember.....all them bells/whistles doesn't mean better.

JCat wrote:
so I will be ordering a Dometic RM1350MIMSS.Wow what sticker shock $3000 to $3600 for a fridge not including install !

That's a nice one. I love stainless.

Looks like the cooling unit is bad, so I will be ordering a Dometic RM1350MIMSS.

Wow what sticker shock $3000 to $3600 for a fridge not including install !

newman fulltimer wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

newman fulltimer wrote:
sounds like a bad thermister uplug it then put the inside part in a glass of ice water more ice than water wait 10 minutes then check the ohms it should read between 8,000-10,000 ohms

A BAD thermistor will NOT stop cooling. It will stop adequate cooling. Doug

Doug ALL things ARE possabile i did have a thermister wire short and shut the board off but do believe the cooling unit is plugged as you do.
please also note the op stated as well of replacing the unit and not repairing it

OK, but in 30 years I have NEVER seen that happen. I have worked on thousands of refers. BUT, the fact remains, IF you suspect the Thermister, then unplug it at the board. A BAD thermistor will still OHM out correctly OR if shorted will indicate that. But, YOUR very rare short shut the board OFF. The OP's board did not shut off. There are multitudes of things that stray from the ordinary, you ALWAYS go for the simpler common items when troubleshooting. Doug

dougrainer wrote:

newman fulltimer wrote:
sounds like a bad thermister uplug it then put the inside part in a glass of ice water more ice than water wait 10 minutes then check the ohms it should read between 8,000-10,000 ohms

A BAD thermistor will NOT stop cooling. It will stop adequate cooling. Doug

Doug ALL things ARE possabile i did have a thermister wire short and shut the board off but do believe the cooling unit is plugged as you do.
please also note the op stated as well of replacing the unit and not repairing it

JCat wrote:
All lights are on, inside fridge and outside on the display.
No Yellow stuff in outside compartment/

JCat

At this point, the ONLY thing to do, is wire the 120 elements direct for 24 hours. IF the refer does not get below 10 in the freezer and 40 in the refer, the CU is bad, either blocked or a leaker. You don't always see the yellow ammonia residue on a leaker unless you dismantle the burner flue insulation cover. Doug

newman fulltimer wrote:
sounds like a bad thermister uplug it then put the inside part in a glass of ice water more ice than water wait 10 minutes then check the ohms it should read between 8,000-10,000 ohms

A BAD thermistor will NOT stop cooling. It will stop adequate cooling. Doug

Hi,

If it is a cooling unit blockage I'd replace it with a residential compressor type fridge and add some solar panels.

The NDR1292 is NOT part of the recall.

You have panel lights and you can swap fridge from electric to gas operation but neither mode cools fridge (freezer and food sections)

So the 3A DC fuse on control module is good or you would not have panel lights.
The 'thermofuse' on stack hasn't tripped or you would not have panel lights.

So sounds like cooling unit has blockage.

Either replacement of cooling unit, replacement of fridge with another rv fridge or residential fridge

Dimensions of NDR 1292
Height---59 1/16"
Width----32 11/16"
Depth----24"

sounds like a bad thermister uplug it then put the inside part in a glass of ice water more ice than water wait 10 minutes then check the ohms it should read between 8,000-10,000 ohms