Dometic fridge RM2652 tripping thermal sensor

[rvman69]

Hello all, my Dometic RM2652 in my 99 Travelmaster class C RV was in my level shop hooked up and running good. I went out one day after we had a pretty bad storm and our electricity went off and back on about 5 times in a short period of time. Then it stayed off for about 36 hours. I noticed that our fridge power light was not on the fridge. So I turned the fridge off and reset the thermal switch on the heat unit. I went back in and turned fridge on. The power came on and the auto light was on. So I thought well the storm just threw the thermal sensor. So I turned the fridge off so I could clean it thinking it was fine. Well today I went out to turn the fridge on to get ready to go camping at the end of the month. When I turned it on the the lights came on the control panel as it should. It was on for a while then later I noticed the lights on the fridge were off. I went back to the thermal sensor and it was thrown again. I reset it again and it did the same thing. The heating element is getting hot. I do not think the cooling unit is bad but not positive. I do not see any yellow or green looking stuff around the heat unit. Is there anything else I should check that could be making the fridge not operate correctly? Could it be that the thermal sensor switch is just bad? Would appreciate any help. Is there a way to post pictures on here? I was going to post a couple so you could see there seems to be no yellow or green looking stuff. Thanks

[bigfootford]

I had no trouble with the plastic. Videos on the tube did show a couple of fellas that broke part of the plastic and did use a good sealer/silicon based on it.
Review CITAP1'S video to do the taping etc.

I watched them all!

This one is pretty good too!

https://youtu.be/L8kBX9LzIJo

[rvman69]

I got the old cooling unit out. Even though I got the plastic liner under the fins separated good it still ripped my liner on both sides some. I seen where once you get it back together you can put some RV caulking on it and it will be fine. Is this true? Also do I need to do anything where the double sided tape was on the fins? Thanks

[bigfootford]

By the time you get the fridge back into its cubby hole and hooked up there's not even a chance of an issue of the coolant not being fully settled.

Jim.

[rvman69]

Once I get this done and get the fridge back in its place do I need to wait before firing it up? I just want to make sure I dont mess up all the work I am doing by not waiting long enough. Thanks

[bigfootford]

rvman69 wrote:
I decided to leave the fridge in the RV and work on it. I put the living room couch slide out and it gives me plenty of room. I put some protection down on floor. Then I put two 2x4's and a piece of foam on it. So I could put the top face of fridge on it so it would hold the handles off the floor. I ordered the cooling unit yesterday morning. I got an email from Cooling Unit Warehouse this morning saying it shipped. This afternoon I got a text from FedEx saying they have it and I will get it tomorrow. Very fast. The only way I could put a fan in would be inside the access panel. Is it a good idea to put a fan in there? Or would it be better to put one above the fridge in the roof vent? Thanks

Great, take your time..... My Cooling unit came out pretty easy. Installing it in the vertical position allowed easy installation of the cooling unit screws.

Jim.

[rvman69]

I decided to leave the fridge in the RV and work on it. I put the living room couch slide out and it gives me plenty of room. I put some protection down on floor. Then I put two 2x4's and a piece of foam on it. So I could put the top face of fridge on it so it would hold the handles off the floor. I ordered the cooling unit yesterday morning. I got an email from Cooling Unit Warehouse this morning saying it shipped. This afternoon I got a text from FedEx saying they have it and I will get it tomorrow. Very fast. The only way I could put a fan in would be inside the access panel. Is it a good idea to put a fan in there? Or would it be better to put one above the fridge in the roof vent? Thanks

[enblethen]

I had to remove refer from rig using a large sliding window.

[rvman69]

I have watched a bunch of videos of replacing the cooling unit in the Dometic RM2652. Most of the people remove the screws in the freezer and the fridge fin screws before they take the fridge out. I did pull the plastic at the bottom of the fins out good since I will definitely be pulling the fins with the cooling unit. I did not have a bent screw driver so I bent an old hacksaw blade then used electrical tape to tape it to a long flathead screwdriver. It made it sturdy and it worked perfect. It will be easier to worry about those two stripped screws when the cooling unit is out on the ground. I am wondering if I can take the door handles off and maybe the hinges to be able to take the fridge out of the camper. The actual door opening is just under 24 inches. Anyone tried this? Thanks

[bigfootford]

The link at the bottom is a very good video to see how he removed, replaced the cooling unit and re-install.
He got an Amish unit and had to do a little bit of mod to get the cooling unit secured in. Not sure if that is what happens with all of them...
I got a Dometic unit and it fit excellently. It only has a 1 year warranty. Over a year install and it is working very good.
Got mine from these folks. Made by Dometic.

https://rvpartsusa.com/rv-refrigerator-replacement-cooling-units/


Here is a link to my cooling unit replacement. Not fun with a camper. Can not take the fridge out of the camper without full door and frame remmoval. Also had to remove part of the dinette seat to get the fridge out to work on it. Removed and installed the cooling unit standing up, no way to lay it down.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/NV1joAXqGRJLTToY8

Here is his video. He also offers additional steps to make the fridge perform somewhat better.

https://youtu.be/RhniGqckQzM

Jim.

[dougrainer]

You pull the cooling unit and the evap fins pull out with it. I use an Impact screwdriver to remove stuck evap screws. Doug

Stainless steel and you can "pull" the evap fin assbly around the stripped screws. Just use a small washer when you install the fins on the new CU

https://www.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-Impact-Driver-8-Inch-CMMT14104/dp/B07R96M9VW/ref=asc_df_B07R96M9VW/...

[rvman69]

Well I have the fridge about ready to come out. I got all of the freezer fin screws out. Well the fridge fin screws were very rusted. So I even went up to the hardware store close to me and bought a brand new long bit just for it. Well I got two of the screws out. Two of them the heads are stripped out. There was never any grab on them at all. Any suggestions on the best way to get them out? Also what would be the best screws to replace them with. I want to replace all four. Thanks

[dougrainer]

NEW Dometic Cooling units have the complete CU with the Thermal disc. You only transfer the baffle. Since the Thermal disc is a Dometic part, I doubt any rebuilder will have or supply the disc. Usually over the years if you give Dometic a call and give them the model and serial number, they sometimes will ship a disc. No charge. But, I am a service center and have a relationship with Dometic, so they may defer to my knowledge and send N/C. There are 2 Dometic thermal discs. NO RESET when it trips you replace it. Manual reset with a button in the center you can push and reset. Note. Make sure you use LOTS of Thermal mastic when replacing the CU. You can NEVER use too much. Doug

[rvman69]

I ended up ordering a Amish remanufactured unit from cooling unit warehouse. Now just to wait. Actually I spoke with the owner and he said if I ordered it this morning it would go out tomorrow. He said that to my location at most 2 days after the ship date. I hope. I am getting ready to order a new hose and hose drain plug. Mine just feel apart in three pieces. I want to thank everyone for your help and suggestions.

[rvman69]

RVcool units are now at RVpartsUSA.com I had looked at them. I know I need new insulation no matter what I buy. If I buy one that does not have new insulation what kind needs to be used? Thanks

[JBarca]

rvman69 wrote:
Ok a rebuilt cooling unit it is. Will the rebuilt units that come with new flue have the place for the thermal breaker? Or do you have to make the spot. Thanks

Usually, none of the sheet metal covers come with a new cooling unit. You reuse all the old sheet metal covers and in this case, the boiler tube insulation cover. You can double-check with the place you are buying them from.

This may help. The last cooling unit I bought was from RVCool. I believe they are no longer in business, they sold the business to someone else, not sure I recall who. This is what they shipped for an RM2652; it was a new cooling coil. It was a well-built unit, in my view. And you had to return your old core to them.



This may help; this was their install video. This can give you a feel for what is involved. After the 2 adds, the screen will be black for a few seconds until the words and people start showing up. https://youtu.be/L8kBX9LzIJo

Hope this helps

John