Forum Discussion
hydrocynus
Mar 07, 2017Explorer
I received the part this morning. I unhooked the AC and DC power, even pulled out the fuse just to make sure. I turned off the display panel.
I installed the board, connected everything, tested everything before I applied power. Unfortunately, the fridge still switched to LP cooling on AUTO (solid LED lit).
I got an extension cord, plugged the fridge into clean AC power from the main AC outlet getting to the Home, still I am getting LP cooling.
I then additionally connected the fridge to a brand new fully charged battery, and still LP cooling.
Of course, fuses were tested (including their mounting brackets), heating element tested for resistance (44 ohms), thermistor tested as the manual indicates (but that is not really an issue here as I can either let it plugged in or unplugged to get the fridge to cool and I still get the LP cooling), heating element connected to the the AC supply to bypass the board's switch and it heats up good.
So, the only thing I have not tested is the display control board. I have the old one from the fridge I replaced when I bought this fridge that causes me issues. It is in the storage, so I will get it and plug it in to see what happens.
Meanwhile, I ordered a digital temperature controller to fully bypass the board and control the AC power getting to the heating element. At least, I will be able to control the temp inside the fridge better than rising the thermistor up and down.
Cost is only $20 bucks for the controller and all the parts.
If you have any ideas (looks like I have tested everything), let me know.
I installed the board, connected everything, tested everything before I applied power. Unfortunately, the fridge still switched to LP cooling on AUTO (solid LED lit).
I got an extension cord, plugged the fridge into clean AC power from the main AC outlet getting to the Home, still I am getting LP cooling.
I then additionally connected the fridge to a brand new fully charged battery, and still LP cooling.
Of course, fuses were tested (including their mounting brackets), heating element tested for resistance (44 ohms), thermistor tested as the manual indicates (but that is not really an issue here as I can either let it plugged in or unplugged to get the fridge to cool and I still get the LP cooling), heating element connected to the the AC supply to bypass the board's switch and it heats up good.
So, the only thing I have not tested is the display control board. I have the old one from the fridge I replaced when I bought this fridge that causes me issues. It is in the storage, so I will get it and plug it in to see what happens.
Meanwhile, I ordered a digital temperature controller to fully bypass the board and control the AC power getting to the heating element. At least, I will be able to control the temp inside the fridge better than rising the thermistor up and down.
Cost is only $20 bucks for the controller and all the parts.
If you have any ideas (looks like I have tested everything), let me know.
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