Dometic refrigerator left off for 10 mo. not working

[cannesdo]

My neighbor also can't get her fridge to cool after leaving it for 10 months. It barely gets to freezing here, if at all (Oregon Coast) but is there a chance that just leaving it off for 10 months could cause the chemicals to separate like they do with freezing? I had mine freeze in Montana years ago, took it out, turned it upside down overnight and it fired right back up the next morning. It's worked ever since...11 years and counting... 🙂 The other thought was the circuit board. Found a burned out fuse on it and replaced it as well as another fuse in sort of push-together (from both sides) case that was also in the back of the fridge compartment near the circuit board but still no cooling. I ordered a new board to try that option before moving on to more drastic tactics.

We both could swear that the freezer was getting a bit chilly today after changing the fuses, the floor of it especially, but it didn't continue to cool any more. Any ideas?

Thanks...

[happy2rv]

Not faulting you for trying the board. I completely understand. Most sellers frown on returning parts after they've been installed, but YMMV.

There are a number of potential problems that could explain your problem, unfortunately, I'm not sure you're going to identify the problem through parts swaps at this point.

As I see it, here are the most likely culprits in what I would consider the most likely order of probability:

1. Faulty heating element (there are multiple ways an element can "fail" without complete failure. It could be or could have been heating without putting out enough heat.
2. Bad connections in the lines connecting the heating element
3. Something I and others here are overlooking or haven't had the ability to observe. It can be difficult to troubleshoot with the best information and first hand observations.
4. Could still be a bad board. I'm not sure I understand what caused the fuse on the old or new board to blow. I wasn't quite following when you described what happened with the new board.
5. Power supply issues. Unlikely, but it's possible that you have power at the outlet but its not "right". The rudimentary test of unplugging the refrigerator and plugging something else in only indicates whatever you plugged in worked. The only way to truly verify it's right is to measure the voltage on the outlet while the refrigerator is operating. Again, this is not at all likely to be the problem, but it is possible.
6. Gremlins 😉

[cannesdo]

happy2rv wrote:

cannesdo wrote:
Ok, so its been running on gas. Yes, it was on AUTO just checked it -- 30 min. after putting the new fuse in and the coils aren't really warm and the heating element is luke warm. Not a good sign.But we know the heating element can fire up because it fires up on gas, yes? So if it's not the heating element or the board...?

Electric heating element has absolutely no relation to gas heating. When operating on gas, a flame heats the ammonia solution in a boiler. When operating on electric, there is no flame. The electric heating element heats the ammonia solution in the boiler instead of the flame. The refrigerator will work on gas without being plugged in because the control board is powered by 12VD from the battery. I wouldn't judge the refrigerators operation based on the temperature of the coils, especially after a short period of operation. Its the temperature of the boiler that's important. Google RV absorption refrigerator cycle to see how the system works.

See this youtube video for instructions on testing the heating element. I suspect you have a bad heating element, but the only reasonable thing to do is test it. The heating elements run between $45-145 but it could still be other issues. Troubleshooting by replacing parts one at a time without testing them can be an expensive proposition.

At one point after putting the new board in the heating element warmed up. So I believe the heating element is functional. If it has nothing to do with the gas function of the fridge then the new board got the heating element to heat up on electric.

Are you aware it's possible to return parts if it turns out they aren't needed? I had good reason to believe the board was bad so I gave it a try.

[happy2rv]

cannesdo wrote:
Ok, so its been running on gas. Yes, it was on AUTO just checked it -- 30 min. after putting the new fuse in and the coils aren't really warm and the heating element is luke warm. Not a good sign.But we know the heating element can fire up because it fires up on gas, yes? So if it's not the heating element or the board...?

Electric heating element has absolutely no relation to gas heating. When operating on gas, a flame heats the ammonia solution in a boiler. When operating on electric, there is no flame. The electric heating element heats the ammonia solution in the boiler instead of the flame. The refrigerator will work on gas without being plugged in because the control board is powered by 12VD from the battery. I wouldn't judge the refrigerators operation based on the temperature of the coils, especially after a short period of operation. Its the temperature of the boiler that's important. Google RV absorption refrigerator cycle to see how the system works.

See this youtube video for instructions on testing the heating element. I suspect you have a bad heating element, but the only reasonable thing to do is test it. The heating elements run between $45-145 but it could still be other issues. Troubleshooting by replacing parts one at a time without testing them can be an expensive proposition.

[cannesdo]

dougrainer wrote:

cannesdo wrote:
I am so confused. The fridge is running just fine on electric now -- but it is not plugged in!!! What's up with that??? Is it running on battery power? It is definitely set on electric and not on gas.

I am so confused.

YOU are confused?? This is like saying I am watching TV and the TV is not even plugged in. It must be on LP if not plugged in. You need to post Year/Model of RV and Model of Refer. IF it was on 12 volt(3 way refer) and had a 12 volt element, it would not cool adequately. IF you have it on AUTO, it WILL go to LP if the unit is NOT plugged into 120 power. Doug

Ok, so its been running on gas. Yes, it was on AUTO just checked it -- 30 min. after putting the new fuse in and the coils aren't really warm and the heating element is luke warm. Not a good sign.But we know the heating element can fire up because it fires up on gas, yes? So if it's not the heating element or the board...?

[wa8yxm]

cannesdo wrote:
I am so confused. The fridge is running just fine on electric now -- but it is not plugged in!!! What's up with that??? Is it running on battery power? It is definitely set on electric and not on gas.

I am so confused.

If it is working "Fine on electric" then he has electric power. Possible sources of 120VAC are
1 Shore power (but you said you were not plugged in or did you mean the fridge was not plugged in more later)
2: Generator
4 INVERTER

Note there is a 12/120/Propane version but I don't think you have that as it don't work all that well on 12


Now. Some fridges have one plug and outlet in the outside compartmet
Some have two. one plug is JUST for the icemaker The other for the fridge.

But if you are not plugged into shore or running genny you must have an inverter if it's working on A/C.. Else it should auto-switch to propane and work.

How to test

Go out and open the outside comparment (one special instruction follows) Pull plug and plug in a 120 volt device (Drop cord with trouble lamp works great here) Does light work? You have 120vac if it does.

Special instruction
When replacing the cover make sure the drip tube (Ribbed black or white tube with a plug like thing in the bottom end) extends out via one of the vent holes.

[dougrainer]

cannesdo wrote:
I am so confused. The fridge is running just fine on electric now -- but it is not plugged in!!! What's up with that??? Is it running on battery power? It is definitely set on electric and not on gas.

I am so confused.

YOU are confused?? This is like saying I am watching TV and the TV is not even plugged in. It must be on LP if not plugged in. You need to post Year/Model of RV and Model of Refer. IF it was on 12 volt(3 way refer) and had a 12 volt element, it would not cool adequately. IF you have it on AUTO, it WILL go to LP if the unit is NOT plugged into 120 power. Doug

[cannesdo]

I am so confused. The fridge is running just fine on electric now -- but it is not plugged in!!! What's up with that??? Is it running on battery power? It is definitely set on electric and not on gas.

I am so confused.

[cannesdo]

Replaced the board today. Decided to test the element and forgot to unplug it and the fuse in the new board blew. *sigh*....so left waiting another 2 days to get some from Amazon. But when I went back after looking at the water heater I realized the heating element on the refrigerator had warmed up nicely. Guess I was feeling the coils before...coils weren't warm yet -- do they take longer? So I think the new board did the trick but now were treading water again....I'm such a dork.

[happy2rv]

cannesdo wrote:
Update: Plugged my blow dryer into the fridge outlet and it works. Plugged it in set to off but (coincidence?) the fridge made a sound like it was powering on when I plugged the blow-dryer in. That was weird. ?

Now...youtube video about how to test the fridge element...

Hard to say what the sound was. It could be a relay or something similar. Having said that, if the hair dryer wasn't intermittent, there shouldn't be a loose wire in the receptacle. If the refrigerator plug is tight, I don't think the issue is at the plug. Most likely culprit is the heating element, but could still be the control board.

[midnightsadie]

might take that recpticale apart and check the wiring. could just be a loose wire.

[cannesdo]

Update: Plugged my blow dryer into the fridge outlet and it works. Plugged it in set to off but (coincidence?) the fridge made a sound like it was powering on when I plugged the blow-dryer in. That was weird. ?

Now...youtube video about how to test the fridge element...

[cannesdo]

dougrainer wrote:

cannesdo wrote:
No...just one fridge...neighbor's. An RV tech did look at it and said it was a problem with the "electronics", think he meant the board so I'd like to help her and save her the money. The board I ordered is returnable. The fridge has an element too? I'll google...she left it to spend the winter in Mexico. The trailer wasn't moved. And it did snow one day so it could have gotten pretty cold. Don't know if that was enough to affect the ammonia.

ANYBODY that states, "it is a problem with the electronics" means they are NOT a qualified RV Tech and are just Part Changers. They should be able to state WHAT part is the problem if they are qualified. IF that person did not actually look at the refer, then do NOT trust what he states. Doug

This was a translation by my neighbor who knows nothing about anything and that's probably all she heard, so who knows what he actually said. He also said it would cost $180 to fix which also meshed with the a circuit board repair so that was my best guess.

[dougrainer]

cannesdo wrote:
No...just one fridge...neighbor's. An RV tech did look at it and said it was a problem with the "electronics", think he meant the board so I'd like to help her and save her the money. The board I ordered is returnable. The fridge has an element too? I'll google...she left it to spend the winter in Mexico. The trailer wasn't moved. And it did snow one day so it could have gotten pretty cold. Don't know if that was enough to affect the ammonia.

ANYBODY that states, "it is a problem with the electronics" means they are NOT a qualified RV Tech and are just Part Changers. They should be able to state WHAT part is the problem if they are qualified. IF that person did not actually look at the refer, then do NOT trust what he states. Doug

[pianotuna]

cannesdo,

If it works on propane there is an electrical problem, but only on the 120 volt side.

check power at fridge outlet.

Check to see if the heating element is burned out.

check the fuse on the control board.