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quik6rr's avatar
quik6rr
Explorer
May 16, 2015

Dometic RM2500 Help

Hello, i have recently purchased a1987 Class C for my first motorhome. It has been a great experience so far, but now i am having an issue with the fridge. I know its a bit of an antique now, but i dont have the money to buy anything newer at the moment.

The fridge will run on shore power no problem, but when i try to run it on propane I get nothing. I have tried to research my problem extensively and have come up with nothing. I have done all the cleaning that is suggested, and tested the thermocoupler and it is in working order. I believe i have a 12v electrical problem, because i tested at the 12v block with a multimeter and get nothing. When i turn the knob to "gas" on the fridge, i do not get the orange light coming beside the knob either. When i press the ignitor button, i dont get any spark, so am wondering if there is a fuse somewhere i'm not seeing. I have taken a small 12v battery and connected it to the wire block, and instantly i get spark but still it will not light. Next step was i have a small butane torch that i held on the thermocoupler and after a minute the fridge will light, so i know my propane supply is there, but in doing this i am basically bypassing the fridges ignition system altogether.

Sorry for the long post, but any help would be great. Thanks
  • quik6rr's avatar
    quik6rr
    Explorer
    May 18, 2015
    Thanks for the link, but I have the paper manual and it's also an automatic reigniter. I've traced down my problem and it was due to not having a 12v supply.
  • doughere's avatar
    doughere
    Explorer
    May 17, 2015
    below is a link to the manual for your refrig (manual covers numerous models)

    http://www.manualslib.com/manual/254962/Dometic-Rm2300.html?page=5#manual

    You have a pizeo igniter, you don't need 12 VDC to use unit. The 12 VDC is to power unit on 12 power when underway, and for lights and re-igniter for gas.

    Manual should help you troubleshoot problem.

    Regards,
    Doug
  • quik6rr's avatar
    quik6rr
    Explorer
    May 17, 2015
    So I've found the other end of the wire, and it's been cut 6" from the chassis battery, not the house batteries. I don't understand why it's been routed to the chassis battery, but I plan to correct that by tapping into a wire for the house lighting. There is no clean way for me to fish a new power wire to the panel, because they are on separate sides of the rv, but I don't imagine the fridge has much of a draw when running, and I've changed all the light bulbs to LED's. Once again, thanks for the help. It's all part of the fun of owning a 27 year old rv!
  • Old-Biscuit's avatar
    Old-Biscuit
    Explorer III
    May 16, 2015
    Fridge DC source should be fused but could be wired directly from battery.

    You don;t have 12V DC at fridge terminal block so you need to find supply source and fix issue with why no DC at fridge.

    Could be bad connection at battery, could be blown in-line fuse on wire from battery, could be bad wire from battery

    You know fridge DC worked when you connected a battery directly to it.
  • Chris_Bryant's avatar
    Chris_Bryant
    Explorer II
    May 16, 2015
    On the RM2501, when you switch to GAS, the reigntier is energized for spark, and the LP valve is opened- pushing the button opens the safety valve.
    It could well be that the refrigerator is wired directly to the battery- not uncommon.
    Ihave the Installation/Operation (Owners) manual at http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/operating/rm2401.pdf (covers 2301, 2401, 2501, 2601, and 2801).
  • quik6rr's avatar
    quik6rr
    Explorer
    May 16, 2015
    Thanks for the reply, I have looked at my distribution panel, and have 4 fuses, none of which are for the fridge. I pulled them all anyways to have a look, and they seem good. I wonder if I have a fuse elsewhere that is blown causing me problems. At the panel, they're labeled 1. Bathroom 2. Range Hood 3. Front Hallway 4. Panel

    That's good to know the button is for the thermo safety valve, I assumed it was ignition. So how it should operate is when I turn the knob to gas, it should spark immediately and then pressing the button allows gas to flow? Thanks again.
  • Old-Biscuit's avatar
    Old-Biscuit
    Explorer III
    May 16, 2015
    OK..

    First off your fridge cools using the 120V AC electric element. That is good cause it means cooling unit works

    Now for the propane side.....you can get flame using butane torch.
    So thermocouple works, gas flows...all good

    NO 12V DC at terminal block. That 12V DC power source comes from your DC Dist. Panel and should be feed thru a 20A fuse.
    Need to locate DC fuses, ID one for fridge circuit and get DC voltage to fridge terminal block

    With good 12V DC Voltage
    Turn Selector knob to 'GAS'----Lamp on far left should now come ON
    Turn Gas Thermostat Knob 1/4 turn from OFF position
    Press 'button' fully IN and HOLD (thermo safety valve)
    When Lamp goes OFF.continue holding button in for at least 15 seconds more----then release button.
    IF Lamp comes back ON------REPEAT (Lamp should stay OFF

    Thermocouple tip needs to be over 2 of the burner slots and engulfed in main flame

    Thermostat control (Fridge ON)
    OFF-----burner runs continuously at bypass rate (just enough to stay lit)
    MAX-----burner runs continuously at full gas rate
    Any position in between-------burner cycles between full flow to bypass flow based on temp in food section

    Operate fridge LEVEL.

    Good luck!

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