Dometic RM2652 fridge flue cleaning

I always like to start with ruling out the cheap and easy things first which in my case and yours was the solution.

Glad to see that was all you needed. :B .... and thanks for the followup so we all know how it turned out.

Chris Bryant stated

Even though the flame [COLOR=]looks good, it doesn't take much to make it not work (Thanks Chris)

Wow, truer words have never been spoken. I disconnected the thermocouple, removed burner tube & orifice & wire brushed the tube & couple. Cleaned out orifice with air. Very, very minute oxidation(rust) on tube slits from sitting since January. Fired up at 5pm last nite it's 34* this morning. Guess this will be a regular chore every year. The flame looked so good though b4 cleaning.
Gene & Ginny my flame looked exactly like yours in your pics b4 & after. Very valuable lesson here for me & many campers.

Thanks Chris.

The only time I have had to clean a flue is when the flame was burning so bad the flue was covered in soot. Even though the flame looks good, it doesn't take much to make it not work. Clean the orifice and check the pressure with a manometer.

Thanks people. Raining real heavy here in So. Fl. As soon as it lightens up, i'll pull the roof vent cover and take a look. I guess I will pull the orifice and clean that too.

in my old TT, I had the same problem. On A/C I had good temps (between 33-36) but on gas, it wasn't keeping it cold. I tried the blow it out and some debris came down, but it wasn't really cooling properly. finally I pulled the vent on the top, reached down and removed the baffle.

What I found was the baffle had broken off a corner on the bottom of the twisted section and was wedged in the flue. I used some 8 gauge copper wire, removed the broken piece of the baffle, replaced the entire baffle and put it back together and the fridge, on gas, worked just like A/C (33-36 degrees).

The scratches on my arms made me wonder if there was an easier way... Pulling the fridge or reaching down from the top. Hmmmm.. :)

Good Luck!

I had that problem once and thought the flame was good ...



... but after I cleaned the burner tube and gas jet it looked better



The first picture was good enough to keep the gas valve open but it didn't cool very well (45 to 50). The second picture keeps it 33 to 35.

Mine is also a RM2652

Thanks Doug. The unit has never been replaced . Just don't understand why it works perfect on 110 v and not on propane. Last winter it worked great on both. Like I said, the flame looks really good. Nice and blue. Gas pressure is O.K. cause HWH and stove burners are good too. NO indication of any yellow either. Works too good on 110. Scratching my head .

Removing the lower burner will NOT gain access to clean the flue(because of the baffle in the flue). IF you really think the baffle needs pulled and the flue cleaned, you need to pull the refer and remove the baffle and then insert the brush cleaner from the top. I have NEVER in 34 years had to pull a refer to clean a flue. My curved air nozzle inserted above the burner blowing up the flue does the trick. A Dirty flue does not really hamper LP operation. Flue debris on or falling on the burner causes performance problems. Also, IF the baffle is not installed or is damaged, that will cause LP performance problems. So, you really need to pull the refer and pull the baffle to verify the spiral condition of the baffle. Has the Cooling unit ever been replaced???? If so, then a common mistake from inexperienced installers is to FORGET to transfer the baffle from the old cooling unit. Dometic does not and rebuilders do not supply new baffles on their cooling units. Only Norcold supplies new baffles on their cooling units. Doug