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Dump Valve Lubricant

bluka43
Explorer
Explorer
I've recently replaced the slide valve seals on the black water tank. check for leaks and none seen. The valve seems to be a little harder to operate when no liquid is in the tank. I don't believe the bolts are too tight, because it worked fairly freely when I first put it back together. I'm thinking that I need to use a valve seal lubricant at this point. Any suggestions as to what to purchase to use?
Thanks
30 REPLIES 30

RLS7201
Explorer
Explorer
ernie1 wrote:
Can't say exactly what material the dump valve seals are but absolutely do not use any petroleum based lubricant on them. They WILL swell and cause all sorts of problems. Use a silicone based lubricant and not a petroleum based one!


I installed grease zerks in my dump valves over 10 years ago, and my seals haven't swelled yet. Again, petroleum will not hurt the dump valve seals. They are not rubber. Most likely, they are buna-N.

Richard
95 Bounder 32H F53 460
2013 CRV Toad
2 Segways in Toad
First brake job
1941 Hudson

joelc
Explorer III
Explorer III
ernie1 wrote:
Can't say exactly what material the dump valve seals are but absolutely do not use any petroleum based lubricant on them. They WILL swell and cause all sorts of problems. Use a silicone based lubricant and not a petroleum based one!


I would agree. There are many warning in multiple RV parts not to use anything that is petroleum based, so why take a chance when a silicone product will work. Not to change the subject, but on the slide seals they say to use silicone spray and on my Big Foot system they say silicone or Teflon spray. YOU DO NOT USE SILICONE CALK HOWEVER.

ernie1
Explorer
Explorer
Can't say exactly what material the dump valve seals are but absolutely do not use any petroleum based lubricant on them. They WILL swell and cause all sorts of problems. Use a silicone based lubricant and not a petroleum based one!

RLS7201
Explorer
Explorer
joshuajim wrote:
Plumbers grease comes in 2 varieties. Petroleum based and silicone based. Never use the petroleum based grease on any rubber seal as it causes the rubber to swell and will make the problem worse.

Unfortunately, most big box stores sell the petroleum based grease.


The dump valve seals are NOT rubber, so grease in not a problem.

Richard
95 Bounder 32H F53 460
2013 CRV Toad
2 Segways in Toad
First brake job
1941 Hudson

joshuajim
Explorer II
Explorer II
Plumbers grease comes in 2 varieties. Petroleum based and silicone based. Never use the petroleum based grease on any rubber seal as it causes the rubber to swell and will make the problem worse.

Unfortunately, most big box stores sell the petroleum based grease.
RVing since 1995.

brulaz
Explorer
Explorer
Because the newer trailer has enclosed, hard-to-get-at valves, have been pouring Thetford Drain valve lube down the drains a couple of times a year, after emptying the tanks in prep for storage, for the last couple of years. So far the valves are good.

Previous trailer I just used silicone spray as the valves were easy to get at.
2014 ORV Timber Ridge 240RKS,8500#,1250# tongue,44K miles
690W Rooftop + 340W Portable Solar,4 GC2s,215Ah@24V
2016 Ram 2500 4x4 RgCab CTD,2507# payload,10.8 mpgUS tow

RLS7201
Explorer
Explorer
Gjac wrote:
The easiest way to lube the dumpvalves is to install a grease fitting on the top. When ever the handle gets hard to pull usually every other year I pump some grease in and it pulls out and in with ease. For some reason the black tank always gets harder to pull than the grey.


Ditto.. Been doing the same for over 20 years. Never replaced the whole valve, just the $2.00 seals.

Richard
95 Bounder 32H F53 460
2013 CRV Toad
2 Segways in Toad
First brake job
1941 Hudson

Traveler_II
Explorer
Explorer
I just use mineral oil, empty the tank and add about a cup once a month when we are on the road.
2011 Cameo 34SB3
2014 Ford 350 King Ranch, Trailer Saver BD3 Air Hitch, Mor/Ryde pin box, IS Suspension, Disk Brakes
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Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
The easiest way to lube the dumpvalves is to install a grease fitting on the top. When ever the handle gets hard to pull usually every other year I pump some grease in and it pulls out and in with ease. For some reason the black tank always gets harder to pull than the grey.

larry_barnhart
Explorer
Explorer
When our black water valve becomes hard to pull and push I drain the tank and pour a gallon of vegetable oil down the toilet and wait for as long as I can and then pull and push as fast as possible as the oil drains though the valve. Has worked for every time.

chevman
chevman
2019 rockwood 34 ft fifth wheel sold
2005 3500 2wd duramax CC dually
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joelc
Explorer III
Explorer III
If it is just a lubricant you want you can get it anywhere. If you want a chemical that breaks down waste along with a lubricant, try Odorlos. I have used it for along time and love it. After I dump, I put some in the toilet and let it sit for awhile. It keeps my toilet seal and the valve well lubricated.

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
2oldman is right !!
I will NEVER replace just the seals again I've done it twice, and just a waste of time and money.
For whatever reason a new complete valve works so easy......unbelievable.
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

mockturtle
Explorer II
Explorer II
I periodically clean and spray the extended valve stems with silicone lubricant. Seems to keep them working smoothly.
2015 Tiger Bengal TX 4X4
Chevy 3500HD, 6L V8

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
bluka43 wrote:
I've recently replaced the slide valve seals on the black water tank.
You went to all that trouble and didn't replace the valve itself? A new valve would slide just fine.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

3oaks
Explorer
Explorer
If the valve is located near the outlet where you can see it, spray the inside of the valve with silicone spay while working it open and closed.