Forum Discussion

Wild_Card's avatar
Wild_Card
Explorer
Aug 21, 2017

Electric Brakes having some issues

Ok, I don't have a ton of experience with electric brakes but here is my issue I need a little help with.

My rig usually I run my brake gain at 2.5/3 and it stops well. Last weekend did not have much braking and had to crank up to 6/7 to feel anything. This is kind of an overnight issue. I pulled it 1400 miles 2 weeks ago through the mountains and all was well.

When I got home I jacked each wheel, adjusted till it was hard to turn and backed off till it was just free. I then went and pulled my brake away pin to lock the brakes and the wheel could not be turned by hand. I did this on each wheel with same results. Pulled rig and still not much on the brake departmemt. I pulled my pin and the rig stops but I can pull it with ease. On gravel I would think my trailer wheels would lock with full voltage from the pin being pulled? No I have not verified any voltage other than the fact I have some action.

I do have something dragging when the wheel free spins, which I did not have 3 weeks ago in my pre trip check.

Now my last rigs I remember hitting brakes and distinctly hearing the magnet engage, I don't hear it now, nor can I say I remember previously. Kind of lost other than pulling my hubs to look, but it's also under warranty so I don't want to put out money and effort pulling hubs when it should be warranty?

Thanks for any advice.
  • Wild_Card's avatar
    Wild_Card
    Explorer
    Aug 22, 2017
    fourthclassC wrote:
    Howdy, Just a suggestion here when I have had electric brakes sticking. With the drum off inspect the ability of the magnet to move freely on its mount. Not sure of the correct term here, but the magnet needs to slide freely off and on against the inside surface of the drum.


    Thank you, i do plan to pull a hub this evening to inspect the grease seals for leakage, as well as the working of the oem junk...er parts I mean. I just remember in another forum a review on my peticular unit a fellow had all 4 seals fail.

    Even more reason to upgrade to disc brakes.
  • fourthclassC's avatar
    fourthclassC
    Explorer
    Aug 22, 2017
    Howdy, Just a suggestion here when I have had electric brakes sticking. With the drum off inspect the ability of the magnet to move freely on its mount. Not sure of the correct term here, but the magnet needs to slide freely off and on against the inside surface of the drum.
  • bartlettj's avatar
    bartlettj
    Explorer
    Aug 22, 2017
    I like to check my brake adjustment by braking hard a few times and then checking the temperature of each brake drum with an infrared thermometer. It's pretty easy to tell by temperature if one of the brakes is doing too little or too much of the work.

    You should also check to make sure you don't have grease leaking from your bearing seals into the drum- you pretty much have to replace the shoes and magnet after this happens to restore braking performance.
  • Wild_Card's avatar
    Wild_Card
    Explorer
    Aug 22, 2017
    While utilizing the break away switch to test voltage...which was 10.4vdc. I smelled burning, it was hot and now don't work.

    10.4vdc with safety switch activated

    12.3 vdc after I clipped wires to redo connections, yes there was some corrosion and poor craftsman ship.

    10.4 after and burnt up switch

    7.4vdc out of truck on 10 gain...did not check vdc out with no magnet load. That's the norm on these integrated factory controlers

    Took for spin down the road...I am closing the case, brakes work and I may go through the adjustment procedure again, may pull a hub jus to haverify a look see. Hydraulic disc will be budgeted for this spring.
  • Wild_Card's avatar
    Wild_Card
    Explorer
    Aug 22, 2017
    time2roll wrote:
    If you have a clamp-on DC ammeter you can check each wheel is getting about 3 amps.
    Too low is a bad connection, too high is a short.

    Since all four seem consistent at least pull one off and inspect.

    Is it too early in the thread to suggest a disk conversion?



    Nope. Come spring, just prioritizing all benjamins budget.
  • ScottG's avatar
    ScottG
    Nomad
    Aug 21, 2017
    The travel issue is even worse if your drums are warped at all - which they often are from new.
  • time2roll's avatar
    time2roll
    Nomad
    Aug 21, 2017
    If you have a clamp-on DC ammeter you can check each wheel is getting about 3 amps.
    Too low is a bad connection, too high is a short.

    Since all four seem consistent at least pull one off and inspect.

    Is it too early in the thread to suggest a disk conversion?
  • Wild_Card's avatar
    Wild_Card
    Explorer
    Aug 21, 2017
    donn0128 wrote:
    Electric brakes do not have the travel that hydraulics do. Adjust to tight and back off no more than 4 clicks. Any more and you simply do not have sufficient travel.



    I went tight till I could barely move tire, then backed off maybe 2-3 clicks.
  • donn0128's avatar
    donn0128
    Explorer II
    Aug 21, 2017
    Electric brakes do not have the travel that hydraulics do. Adjust to tight and back off no more than 4 clicks. Any more and you simply do not have sufficient travel.
  • ScottG's avatar
    ScottG
    Nomad
    Aug 21, 2017
    When adjusted properly, they should drag a little bit. If all is well, they will do so consistantly all the way around.

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