Electric steps and battery draw

[ericsmith32]

Anyone else have this issue? It's been over a month since our last trip in our Class C. We have to close the step due to how much space it takes up on our driveway. I'd say on average it's used twice a week. Went to open it today and nothing. Checked the battery and it was only putting out 4.5 volts. Got it recharged and tested and it's ok.. it was new this year. Checked for parasitic draw and nothing.. maybe .06 amps on occasion. The steps took 5-7 amps whenever it was used. Of course the start from the rear battery didn't work.. doesn't surprise me with how screwed up everything else has been.

Has anyone rewired electric steps to the rear battery? Doesn't seem like a hard task... I'll probably put it out a switch so I could run it from either. It's seem like it is getting some power from the rear battery because it won't work when that battery is removed also. Anything I'm not thinking of?

[dougrainer]

Salvo wrote:
I believe my step controller draws 23 mA continuous (parasitic) current. It's my largest chassis battery parasitic draw.

It's a bad idea to rewire house battery to power steps. You'll lose your steps if house battery is dead and you take off with steps extended.

I use my solar controller's secondary output to keep the chassis battery charged. It's time to think about solar.

Sal

dougrainer wrote:
A correctly functioning Electric step will NOT draw any current when retracted or extended. Doug

I AM electrically challenged on what your draw means in real time. HOW long will that 23 mA take to draw a 800 amp CCA battery dead????
I ask because we have LOTs of motorhomes on our lot and NONE ever have the chassis go dead even after months on the lot. Doug

[Salvo]

Then the manual is wrong. I stand by my measurements! My chassis battery quiescent current is 37 mA. That breaks down to:

Fuse #1 (Espar heater) = 7 mA
Fuse #3 (Instrument panel) = 5 mA
Step Controller = 22 mA
Unaccounted = 3 mA

Measurements are from '07 Navion (Sprinter based class C MH)

Sal

dougrainer wrote:

Salvo wrote:
I believe my step controller draws 23 mA continuous (parasitic) current. It's my largest chassis battery parasitic draw.

It's a bad idea to rewire house battery to power steps. You'll lose your steps if house battery is dead and you take off with steps extended.

I use my solar controller's secondary output to keep the chassis battery charged. It's time to think about solar.

Sal

dougrainer wrote:
A correctly functioning Electric step will NOT draw any current when retracted or extended. Doug

READ my second post and it is direct from the manual. Doug

[ericsmith32]

If your seeing 23mA you must have something wrong.. perhaps a stuck relay etc. We're getting solar all around eventually. Right now due to financial restraints it's either modify or use.. I'm choosing the use!

[pianotuna]

Hi,

I would add the trik-l-start's big brother Amp-l-start

I'd also look at solar. Your batteries will love it and return the kinder treatment with exceptional life span.

[dougrainer]

Salvo wrote:
I believe my step controller draws 23 mA continuous (parasitic) current. It's my largest chassis battery parasitic draw.

It's a bad idea to rewire house battery to power steps. You'll lose your steps if house battery is dead and you take off with steps extended.

I use my solar controller's secondary output to keep the chassis battery charged. It's time to think about solar.

Sal

dougrainer wrote:
A correctly functioning Electric step will NOT draw any current when retracted or extended. Doug

READ my second post and it is direct from the manual. Doug

[Salvo]

I believe my step controller draws 23 mA continuous (parasitic) current. It's my largest chassis battery parasitic draw.

It's a bad idea to rewire house battery to power steps. You'll lose your steps if house battery is dead and you take off with steps extended.

I use my solar controller's secondary output to keep the chassis battery charged. It's time to think about solar.

Sal

dougrainer wrote:
A correctly functioning Electric step will NOT draw any current when retracted or extended. Doug

[ericsmith32]

4.5 volts was what the battery was discharged down to. Just a update bought a cheapie float charger from HF for $4 for now. Cut the clips off and put a plug for the cigarette lighter on it. See how it works. The float charger was putting out 12.8 for a while but dropped back down to 12.54. Really surprised didn't kill the battery! .. Someone sent me a PM and I would respond but PM's isn't working for me.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

4.5 volts? At the battery? Or at the electric step motor? Something doesn't seem to jibe here. Too any possible permutations to continue on, but 4.5 volts is double red flags with black squares.

[ericsmith32]

Yes that's correct it's a Ford Taurus power window motor.. actually had to replace it a few months back. I haven't lubed it yet but doesn't seem to have a issue. It does have both the battery disconnect and electric step switch. The battery disconnect doesn't work.. the electric step switch is only to keep it from working if you're parked for a period of time. If you shut if off it'll still do the initial retraction which I really want to correct!

Not sure how it's wired truthfully.. need to trace the wires. The main constant feed is from the vehicle battery and another switched source from the front. But there must be another from the house battery as it didn't work when it was disconnected. Don't think I'll buy another Jayco.

There is no draw after the initial connection to the battery. It started out at 1amp for about 15 seconds then dropped to 0.06 after 15-20 seconds dropped to 0. It did pull 5-7 amps but it is a heavy duty power motor. I'll look at the trik-l-start.. looks like it puts out more amps about it.

[time2roll]

I would get the trik-l-start over the maintainer.

[dougrainer]

This is from the kwikee manual and explains why some think the step could cause a draw. It cannot if functioning to specs. Doug

If the power wire to the step is disconnected
from its source and reconnected,
a spark is common. This is caused by the
momentary charging of the control unit
and does not necessarily indicate the
system is staying on, which would cause
a drain on the battery. If battery drain is
suspected, observe the understep light (if
so equipped) while the step is extending.
The power switch must be on for the
understep light to operate.

[j-d]

Your step motor's a Ford power window motor. You should be able to run it many many times before it drew the battery down. The step controller shuts the motor down based on current draw. In other words, the motor should stop when the step can't move farther, up or down. But I'd still be sure the steps are lubed so they fully retract with ease.

Our Escapade has a house battery switch right by the door. Are you turning the house battery OFF while parked? If you aren't, your battery's being drawn down "parasitically" by the LPG Detector and other stuff that's powered unless you turn the battery off.

EDIT: Oh, Wait! Your steps are wired to the Chassis Battery? Odd that Jayco would wire one Escapade one way and the other another way. I can see their logic in Chassis Battery. However you manage to get the engine running, alternator power would close the steps. If I started the engine and had a dead house battery, I guess they wouldn't close...

[dougrainer]

A correctly functioning Electric step will NOT draw any current when retracted or extended. Doug

[ericsmith32]

Excellent suggestion! Not sure why I didn't think of that. I'm going to try getting something similiar to this:

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-BM3B-Battery-Maintainer/dp/B0051D3MP6

Won't have to put it under the hood and there's 2 12v outlets in the dash. Looks like the cords are long enough I can put it close to a outlet.