Forum Discussion

emoore613's avatar
emoore613
Explorer
Feb 07, 2018

Electrical Power Issue

Someone please help. Have a 2005 KZ Frontier 2505. Having horrible power surge issues. Have replaced cord, all fuses, checked general wire connections. It does it regardless of whether I am connected to shore power & if I have battery connected. It is intermittent, but does seem to happen more when its hot. When it cools down at night, it does it less, but does happen. All power goes out, lights, outlets, etc. Then it will magically come back on. Sometimes it only stays off for 5 seconds, sometimes its 5 minutes. Everytime it cycles off/on, the propane leak detector beeps. Beyond annoying. I am thinking it is my converter, which is still original from 2005.
  • Old-Biscuit's avatar
    Old-Biscuit
    Explorer III
    Feb 09, 2018
    Old-Biscuit wrote:
    Disconnect battery POS cable
    Plug rig into shore power

    Verify converter has 120V AC Input
    Measure Converter DC output
    S/B 13.2V DC MINIMUM
    If lower converter is bad/failing


    Measure battery Voltage
    Then check each cell specific gravity with hydrometer
    OR just remove battery-take to auto parts store and have it Load Testes
    Buy new battery
    NOTE: MARK/ID Battery POS & NEG cables PRIOR to disconnecting so that you do NOT hookup backwards casue then you will have other problems



    OP..........
    test the battery AND the converter

    THEN you can buy new battery AND converter to resolve your issues
  • wnjj's avatar
    wnjj
    Explorer II
    Feb 09, 2018
    DavidP wrote:
    ALL of pianotuna’s point were already brought up by many people including me. What you’re saying is true and exactly why I said load test the battery and bench test the converter early in this thread. Many said the same thing. In fact, you are saying the same thing now. Bottom line is he needs more testing. I’m not disagreeing with you or Pianotuna, just stating the thread is going in circles now.

    I don’t see circles, just that it was converging on a 12V issue once the OP clarified some things. You pointed that out but I was responding specifically to this quote from you:

    “He already said he has no 120 volt to multiple circuits. Part of the problem is on the 12 volt side by his account but not isolated to just that side.”

    In there you suggested a 120V issue or at least that’s how it reads to me. I simply disagreed and it was confusing things more.
  • MrWizard's avatar
    MrWizard
    Moderator
    Feb 09, 2018
    do your lights work, IF you unplug shore power,
    try unplugging for (1) hour with lights ON !

    what converter do you have

    even if the converter shut off, the batteries should keep the lights on

    sounds like (2) problems, dead/bad batteries and bad converter

    try testing by disconnecting the batteries, and see if the 'problem' changes
  • pianotuna's avatar
    pianotuna
    Nomad III
    Feb 09, 2018
    DavidP,

    And has the OP addressed the issue by testing as I suggested? I don't see a reply from that personage--but I may have missed it.

    And yes the fridge requires 12 volts to run.

    The air conditioner may, or may not depending on the installation. In my current RV it is required. On my previous RV 12 volt was not required for the roof air.
  • DavidP's avatar
    DavidP
    Explorer
    Feb 08, 2018
    ALL of pianotuna’s point were already brought up by many people including me. What you’re saying is true and exactly why I said load test the battery and bench test the converter early in this thread. Many said the same thing. In fact, you are saying the same thing now. Bottom line is he needs more testing. I’m not disagreeing with you or Pianotuna, just stating the thread is going in circles now.
  • wnjj's avatar
    wnjj
    Explorer II
    Feb 08, 2018
    DavidP wrote:
    I understand that, I'm the one who brought that to light in one of my posts where the OP made the correction that he has power to outlets. He still does not have power to multiple 120 Volt circuits like AC and fridge. The above post from pianotuna is going over old ground form many, including myself, who already pointed out everything mentioned. Going in circles at this point until OP does some more testing.


    Since the receptacles work, I’m going with the assumption that the AC and fridge quit because they lost the 12V (i.e. thermostat and control board). Having simultaneous issues with 120V and 12V systems with a battery connected is very unlikely.

    I second pianofuna’s suggestions.
  • DavidP's avatar
    DavidP
    Explorer
    Feb 08, 2018
    wnjj wrote:
    DavidP wrote:
    pianotuna wrote:
    The problem appears to be on the 12 volt DC side of the electrical system.

    Here are some failure points.

    1. 12 volt auto reset breaker is old and starting to fail.

    2. Converter is failing and battery is toast, so it doesn't take over the load.

    3. Battery is toast and the converter can not keep up to the load of attempting to charge and run the RV 12 volts systems, too.

    I'd start with a known good 12 volt battery and no shore power connection. If there are still outages then the autoreset breaker is the failure point.


    He already said he has no 120 volt to multiple circuits. Part of the problem is on the 12 volt side by his account but not isolated to just that side.

    The OP’s third post clarified that the 120v outlets are working fine.


    I understand that, I'm the one who brought that to light in one of my posts where the OP made the correction that he has power to outlets. He still does not have power to multiple 120 Volt circuits like AC and fridge. The above post from pianotuna is going over old ground form many, including myself, who already pointed out everything mentioned. Going in circles at this point until OP does some more testing.
  • wnjj's avatar
    wnjj
    Explorer II
    Feb 08, 2018
    DavidP wrote:
    pianotuna wrote:
    The problem appears to be on the 12 volt DC side of the electrical system.

    Here are some failure points.

    1. 12 volt auto reset breaker is old and starting to fail.

    2. Converter is failing and battery is toast, so it doesn't take over the load.

    3. Battery is toast and the converter can not keep up to the load of attempting to charge and run the RV 12 volts systems, too.

    I'd start with a known good 12 volt battery and no shore power connection. If there are still outages then the autoreset breaker is the failure point.


    He already said he has no 120 volt to multiple circuits. Part of the problem is on the 12 volt side by his account but not isolated to just that side.

    The OP’s third post clarified that the 120v outlets are working fine.

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