pilotanpia wrote:
RLS7201 wrote:
Gdetrailer wrote:
pilotanpia wrote:
MT BOB wrote:
Lots of F53-460 fuel pump problems, and threads,on the net.
2 things you can try,cheap and easy,replace the TFI and the fuel pump relay.
Other things to try- at your risk- when it acts up,1-loosen or remove the fuel cap
2- when it acts up, throw trans in neutral, turn off and restart engine.
I tried the TFI aka Ignition Module which is located on the front apron between the left headlight and radiator. So, not exposed to engine compartment heat. Bottom line, it did not resolve the issue.
Thank you.
TFI is only one part, there is the ECM (Engine Control Module) which is the "computer" or "brain" that controls ignition timing and fuel delivery to the engine. ECM has predefined fuel and ignition maps and uses a variety of external sensors (some which you have replaced) to determine timing and fuel delivery.. ECMs where often mounted in the engine compartment near the windshield, not sure where it is on a Chassis build.. Failing ECMs can affect engine performance..
ECM on OP's chassis is on the inside of the fire wall, just in front of the steering column. Not exposed to engine heat.
Richard
Richard,
As it turns out, I didn't replace the TFI Ignition Module. The module that is on there looks really dark gray or black. It says Motorcraft on it. The dialectric compound is dry and powdery. I will get a new TFI but not install it until I get the problem to come back. I will then, immediately replace it. If the problem goes away that should be my solution. Either way since you suggested that i use a new gray one, I'll just leave it in. After all, the one in there is 26 years old.
Richard, which brand do you recommend?
Donald
Donald,
If you dare drive it with the doghouse removed, or quickly removeable, you might have a helper spray the TFI module with something like
this coolant to quickly cool it when the RV acts up. This is much quicker and works like a charm. By the time you change out the part, whatever quit will have cooled off anyway. One caveat, make sure if you substitute, that it's non-flammable.
A full can may help if another part must be tested.
We used to do that all the time (very economically) back when consumer electronics weren't throw-away. Maybe 20% of electronic repairs were heat related and intermittent. Of course cheap raw refrigerant spray was common before the Ozone layer problem was recognized. :S
Wes
