Fridge door gasket/insulation

[landyacht318]

I recently turned my 1.8 cubic foot Vitrifrigo c51is 12vDC compressor fridge off, defrosted it, cleaned and fluffed door seals, left door open for 16 days.

On restarting it, I set it to my usual spot on the dial, about 2.8 of 7, went shopping, placed a gallon of milk inside at 7:30 pm, and the top of it was frozen in the morning, despite also putting in a half gallon of warm tomato juice and some other things grocery store cold at the same time.

Usually, this setting does not allow freezing of things in the box.

I hypothesize that the cleaned, fluffed, not compressed for 2+ week door seals sealing tighter, contributed to this unintentional partial freezing of some items within. Looking at door seal, which is not really in good condition, It appears as if I could add another seal inside the current one, and have it rest on the interior plastic, instead of the metal of the fridge box on which the current seal seats. This seemingly would vastly increase the effectiveness of the air seal, but also keep the warm exterior metal box of fridge fridge from being in direct contact with the inside, across the seals width, conducting heat inside the box.



Anybody ever considered upgrading the seals on their fridge, not just replacing original, but adding an second seal inside, or perhaps outside, the original?

I've got much added extra insulation on the other sides of the fridge, and a very well ventilated condenser, but the door itself is lacking in thickness and the door seals are not what they were new, and I believe the design is a bit inefficient with metal from fridge body wrapping around to inside the door seal, conducting heat inside.

I believe much room for improvement exists here and would reduce battery draw and extend battery and compressor life. I have a solid area on the door and a flat mating plastic surface inside the current seal for adding another seal.Guess I could replace original seal too.

Just got to get the right amount of compression I guess as well as cut perfect 45's at the right length and glue edges together.

[Gjac]

Canadian Rainbirds wrote:

Gjac wrote:
I made a tool to keep my door open all the time while not in use,but after about 15 years the seal would not pass the dollar bill test. I removed the black retainer latch and removed about .040 off the back of the latch, this allowed the seal to compress more and it passed the dollar bill test. that was 5 years ago and the Norcold still cools well. If that didn't work I was going to try to inject the seal with silicone without the curing agent added to keep it pliable. I did not see how that seal can be removed and don't know if Norcold even sells a replacement seal.

They do. It comes complete with a new door!

Yeah, just like when my burner tube rusted out Norcold wanted me to buy a new refer because they no longer made the tube.

[Canadian_Rainbi]

Gjac wrote:
I made a tool to keep my door open all the time while not in use,but after about 15 years the seal would not pass the dollar bill test. I removed the black retainer latch and removed about .040 off the back of the latch, this allowed the seal to compress more and it passed the dollar bill test. that was 5 years ago and the Norcold still cools well. If that didn't work I was going to try to inject the seal with silicone without the curing agent added to keep it pliable. I did not see how that seal can be removed and don't know if Norcold even sells a replacement seal.

They do. It comes complete with a new door!

[Gjac]

I made a tool to keep my door open all the time while not in use,but after about 15 years the seal would not pass the dollar bill test. I removed the black retainer latch and removed about .040 off the back of the latch, this allowed the seal to compress more and it passed the dollar bill test. that was 5 years ago and the Norcold still cools well. If that didn't work I was going to try to inject the seal with silicone without the curing agent added to keep it pliable. I did not see how that seal can be removed and don't know if Norcold even sells a replacement seal.

[landyacht318]

My existing door seals, when i cleaned them, My finger kind of ripped the interior pleating on the outside. I've not really examined how the seals are held in place on the door, but no doubt it should be replaced for better performance.

I think a secondary seal inside the original would keep the metal fridge box skin from being in direct contact with the coldest air inside, and negate the need for replacing the torn original seals, which still appear to seat tightly and would easily pass a dollar bill test.

The Milk freezing episode on my regular setting just got some wheels turning with an eye on efficiency improvement, although I can obviously get away without any more effort. The hyper ventilated Danfoss db35f compressor is in yawn/cruise mode at 2000 rpm and a 1.8 cubic foot box.

It is just the door is the weak link and the only area where improvements could be made.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

I got my dirty mitts on 30+ feet of accordian seal siliconr used on US Navy cold lockers. I ended up riveting it to the doors of my brand new Vestfrosts. It made a surprising difference lowering ice build-up in high humidity. But I could not use it as a 2nd. The original seals had to go. This is a unique fix but hopefully the comments may be of use to you. Pitch black night put bright flaahlight in fridge close door and look for slightest pip of light.