Fridge Electric Lamp But N0 120v

[BFL13]

Just found out the hard way, that the 1991 2-Way fridge we have (Servel brand) when switched to electric still shows the lamp even when the 120v not on. The lamp is 12v of course.

So we thought it was working ok even though the 120v had been lost, until it was opened and found to be not cold inside.

I don't know if that is normal for these fridges, even the new ones. The 2003 Norcold we had in the 5er had a "code" showing if you lost 120v to the fridge, which is what you want as a warning.

So if you have a fridge that does not show codes, be worth checking to see if that could happen to you. If so, maybe have to invent your own alarm, like a 120v lamp in the same circuit as the fridge 120v receptacle's.

[gkainz]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:


One sensor for the refrigerator the other for the freezer. It's a temperature alarm. AMAZON

WIRELESS!

Do you have a model number? That's exactly what I want and I don't see it cruising through Amazon.
Edit - never mind ... removed some of my search filter and there it is.
Thanks!

Amazon AcuRite Refrigerator/Freezer Digital Thermometer

[BFL13]

Interesting about the newer Dometics too!

In our case the only time we are on electric for the fridge is at home prior to a trip getting the fridge cooled down to load up. It is gas only when away off grid as usual. So it is easy to now have that 120v lamp on to say if the 120v is not on. (extension cord out from house got kicked or whatever)

Thanks for the suggestions on lamps etc. Usually tell if all 120v lost by no microwave light, but you could just lose the fridge's circuit if that is GFCI for instance. Whatever, for each RV.

[dougrainer]

Dometic refers, there is NO indication if the 120 side has FAILED to operate other than NO Cooling. IF you lose 120 volts, then the unit will switch to LP if you have an AUTO switch Dometic. I have never seen your model Servel, most USA built RV's the Servel line was dropped as a name in the late 70's early 80's after Dometic purchased them. Most older RV refers, the inside eyebrow lite would NOT show 120 unless the 120 operation was selected. From your post, I believe you stated, the refer SHOWED 120 selected and the light was ON, but you did NOT have 120 to the refer and it failed to cool. Which is a normal fault on a Dometic brand. Yes, adding a small 120 light to let you know you indeed have 120 to the back of the refer is a good idea. Norcolds, starting back in the 90's incorporate a logic in the control board to let you know if you have 120 selected and the unit fails to have 120 supplied to the refer and if you have the model with that feature will have a fault and beep. Doug

[Ralph_Cramden]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:


One sensor for the refrigerator the other for the freezer. It's a temperature alarm. AMAZON

WIRELESS!

And they even make a non wireless manually operated one that just hangs on the shelf.

My method is if I grab a cold one and its not a cold one I then know something is amiss.

[wnjj]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Display, interior light, controls are DC

Servel Silhouette SERVICE MANUAL

They still could have bothered to turn the indicator light OFF when there is no AC power applied or just use a neon light in the first place. It’s misleading to light up the equivalent of a “120V operation” light when it’s not operating.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

One sensor for the refrigerator the other for the freezer. It's a temperature alarm. AMAZON

WIRELESS!

[Old-Biscuit]

Display, interior light, controls are DC

Servel Silhouette SERVICE MANUAL

[BFL13]

enblethen wrote:
I didn't find an owner's manual online. Did you find it online or did you have one?

I have the one that came with the MH, it is Dometic Part No. 2943447.025. Also the Parts List form from 1990. Looks like I should have done more than the usual skim-through last year when we got this MH.

[enblethen]

I didn't find an owner's manual online. Did you find it online or did you have one?

[BFL13]

enblethen wrote:
Make sure the connector on the power board and eye brow are connected properly.
Remove eye brow and look for corrosion on the circuitry.

So the 12v lamp should not be on if there is no 120v when you switch to electric? That would make too much sense!

Oops, I just read the fine print in the owner's manual, p.11, "Start-Up Instructions-Electric Mode". It says in real small type, "(This lamp indicates that the owner has selected 120v AC operation and does not assure that 120 volts is connected and turned on...)

So maybe I should read the manual first instead of afterwards. 😞

[enblethen]

Make sure the connector on the power board and eye brow are connected properly.
Remove eye brow and look for corrosion on the circuitry.

[BFL13]

enblethen wrote:
Have you checked for 120 volt output from circuit board?
Have you checked the element for continuity?

Sorry I wasn't clear. The 120v was restored ok, it is just that it got noticed that when it was off, and the switch was still to electric, the 12v lamp is still lit. We thought the fridge was working on electric, because the lamp was lit. Nope.

[enblethen]

Have you checked for 120 volt output from circuit board?
Have you checked the element for continuity?

[MEXICOWANDERER]

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So easy to install. Wire across 120 vac power leads to heater AFTER the control board or thermostat.

Coupled with a twin thermometer showing interior compartments temperature this creates a wonderful diagnostic tool that can render system function comprehension in a matter of less then three seconds.

The draw is something like 10ma.